Since I left the island...

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Just a quick update on what i've been up to since I departed the island...

I've been moving fast, as the pressure is on!

Sunday August 2nd

Managed to grab a lift from Andrew a sheep farmer from Winton from the ferry to Invers (Invercargill, but how the locals call it!) and picked up a bottle of wine along the way!

I had a few hours to kill in Invers, and I'd pretty much seen all the sights on my first trip through, so I decided to take in some Harry Potter and headed to an early showing of the newest release with all the kiddies! I really enjoyed the film, but there was something about being at the cinema on my own that made me very lonely all of a sudden!

From Invers I caught the bus to Te Anau and arrived along the lake side just as the darkness had grabbed the town so I hadn't a clue where I was and the awesome views that I couldn't see! I used my bottle of wine as a socializing tool that night. I really wasn't looking forward to carrying it any further so needed to enjoy it quickly! I offered it among the 4 randomers that were chilling in the lakeside hostel and it paid for hours of friendly conversation with two very interesting guys. One older man, originally from the UK but living in Invers for 18 years, an avid hunter, tramper and general outdoor enthusiast. The other guy was a lot younger, also from the UK and was travelling around NZ for 12 months, but he was an independent traveler and reminded me of myself slightly. We had some very interesting chats and told our stories for hours over this bottle of sparkling red aussie wine courtesy of Andrew.

Monday August 3rd

I had booked a sea kayaking trip for the next day out on Milford sound with Rosco's sea kayaking. The road into milford from Te Anau had been closed for 10 days due to a series of avalanches and slips (we call them landslides!) loosened up by the recent earth quake. This was the first day the road was open so it was going to be an interesting trip! We stopped along the way at the usual view points and found out some information about the building of the road and Hommer tunnel and the management of avalances in the area. As we climbed and got closer to the tunnel the damage and destruction caused by the recent snow activity was evident, with large trees on the road side snapped by the wind rush which precedes the snow fall. The scenery was stunning (I will upload photos at a later point!) and the snow piled high on either side of the road was almost unbelievable. According to the road reports, the road was due to open at 11am, but Rosco being a local had some insider knowledge and we were one of the first commercial vehicle to pass through at around 9am. It was a feat to behold and the excitement in the locals voice and description of the area was evident. For me, as someone who'd never seen the place before it was hard to imagine what it would look like normally without all the avalanche debris. At points the snow was up to 3m on either side of the road and the diggers and trucks were working constantly trying to clear away the snow.

The misnamed "sounds" were a sight to behold. The geography was so typical and you could pick out so many glacial features clearly. The first thing that struck me was the walls of the fiords. They looked almost vertical carved perfectly by the passing glaciers! From geography class I had often struggled with the concept of hanging valleys, but from my expert view point in the bottom of the valley it all made sense! 100m waterfalls ran out from the valleys suspended above over the edges into the deep black waters below. There would be 4 of us on the water that day, myself, Eve the guide and two aussie mates, Ian and Chris. We took two tandem kayaks out, which I was slightly disappointed with at first, but grateful when I realized the distance we would be covering! I am slightly out of practice when it comes to paddling!

At points the wind picked up and we were forced to raft together as the seas got choppy. We paddled up to the foot of Bowen falls which arises from one of the hanging valleys and is used to supply the small town of Milford with electricity and water, untreated of course! From chatting to Eve our guide I learned what life was like in Milford trapped from the outside world for 10 days after the avalanches. She was looking forward to a big steak as she had run out of meat! The area is a big lobster fishing spot and she explained how the precious cargo was shipped out by helicopter when the trucks couldn't travel in to collect it.

For lunch we landed at the end of the Milford track, one of NZ great walks and made our way to the shelter to avoid the hungry sand flies. We relaxed our shoulders and drank warm Raro! Mmmmm! The trip back was relaxing and we came across some seals and a helicopter expertly landing on the back of a boat in the fiord - interesting!

On the drive back we made some more pit stops for some lovely views, and say a male kea showing off to a female by what looked like making a cape with his wings and dragging them along the ground! Interesting!

The two aussie lads were driving back to Q'town that night so I decided to hitch along. We arranged to meet at the small Fiordland cinema which shows at 30 minute film on the area shot by a local over 30 years from a helicopter. The show was amazing and made me regret spending so little time in the area...I'll be back, maybe in summer time!

We jumped on the road and were in Q'town before 9pm. It had been a long day and all I was fit for was sleep!

Tuesday August 4th

The plan for today was pretty simple, a ly in to start, breakfast and an attempt the walk to the summit of Ben Lomand, a peak just behind Queenstown which I had heard many people ramble on about! All started well, breakfast eaten and ready to go I wandered out on to the path at One Mile Creek, which signposted a link with the Lomand path. After about 10 minutes I realized I wasn't feeling my energetic self this morning. It honestly felt like I'd been running all night in my dreams as my calfs were very tight and my legs exceptionally heavy. I feared I might be coming down with something, but decided to struggle through it and it was worth it! I came to a point where I lost the sing posts to the Lomand path and ended up on the Fernhill loop, which took 3hours. The lomand peak was signposted as 8 hour return. I followed the Fernhill loop, knowing that it would meet up with the Loman track at some stage. After the initial struggle up the hill I had a really enjoyable walk. I came across some exposed terrain where the rain had fallen on some snow and literally turned it to a solid block of ice. Me and my regular tramping boots were no match for this slippery mess so I was forced to abandon the path and climb through the scrub which was quite difficult! Thankfully I was under the cover of the bus soon enough and passed a small heard of mountain goat (I think!) as I climbed over a flat part. I had a quick descent through the forest and along a creek before meeting up with the correct path, signposted as the Lomand summit.

At this stage I'd been walking for 2 hours and it was 12.30. The summit was signposted as another 3 hours, with 2 hours to the saddle. Being realistic, in terms of ability and remaining light I figured the saddle would be as far as I would make it today. I grabbed a snack and ate it on the move. Again I was climbing but thankfully the fernhill track had loosened me up and I didn't feel as exhausted as earlier that morning. The track climbed steeply up through the forest and eventually out over the tree line. The views were starting to appear so I stopped to catch my breath and position my (new) camera for some self timed shots! I'm sure I look exhausted at this stage! I could see the snow ahead of me, but it was a long way away!

My aim for the day was to reach the snow line, to experience what it was like to tramp in the snow. It was an experience! I would honestly prefer mud any day! At the transition zone there was ice and slush, which was very difficult to walk in. For every step you took you lost at least 2 inces as my boots slipped in the ice. Progress was slow and very unsteady but thankfully the path was clearly cut into the side of the hill. I came to a junction with the path which lead to the gondola and cafe and promised myself a treat on the way back.

At this point the rain clouds of the morning had passed and the sun was shining in bursts illuminating the snow. I was tramping in shorts, gaitors and my boots with just a thermal and light rain jacket on top. I was roasted and the contrast of my pink skin against the white snow distracted my constantly on my climb (see pictures!).

I kept climbing in the snow and made very slow progress. The snow was getting deeper and deeper so at about knee dept in snow I decided I had gone far enough and took a rest on a snow free rock close to the path. I took a few minutes to absorb the view. Over Queenstown, the lakes, the snow covered peaks and the forests laid out below me. The sun was shining, but I knew I had a pretty long walk back to the lakeside where I was staying. The thoughts of a hot coffee and some chocolate were calling to me so I made my way back to towards the signpost for the cafe. Along the path I met a Kiwi (person) and stopped for a yarn - it would be rude not too! He was sitting in the afternoon sun enjoying some lunch, so I sat and listened to the stories he had about the mountains. Onwards I tramped, with the walk made easier by the walking stick which I had kindly been given by the Kiwi. I hadn't realized how far I'd travelled until I had to head back. Soon I was back into civilization where the "normal" tourists were enjoying the sights at the gondola and sipping coffee at the cafe. I wandered in, feeling slightly out of place and got a hot drink to go. The noise of people milling about, talking, laughing etc almost offended my ears after spending hours listening to nothing but my feet crunch in the snow. I took in the view and started the descent towards the city. Along the well formed path I met 3 groups of holiday makes, out of breath and curious to know how much further they had to climb - they had decided not to take the gondola...I made up an estimated time and heading downwards. I met a local with a small scruffy dog, and we had a bit of a yarn, about rugby players if I remember correctly. That is something you just can't avoid with the Kiwi's - the yarn!

At this stage I was indeed truly exhausted. I'd been out quite a bit longer than I had expected and was really looking forward to taking off my wet boots and relaxing. I got in touch with Mel (and Irish gal living in Q'town) and she invited me along to see her playing ice hockey later on that evening. I got cleaned up quickly and made my way towards the gardens where the rink was. Mel had quite a few spectators that night, all curious about this cold and aggressive sport! Knowing very little about the rules it was interesting trying to figure out what was happening! Afterwards we retired to a warm bar for a tipple and afterwards I went in search of the famous Ferg burger I'd heard so much about. Tropical Swine was my choice and I struggled to finish it off - it was quite a burger! If i was staying about I could imagine myself becoming a regular at Fergs!
After a long sleep and relaxing morning I headed north to Wanaka with the hope of doing a skydive. As it happened the weather didn’t suit, so I treated myself to a pedicure, something I’ve never done before. Fed up waiting around in Wanaka for the clouds to part, I jumped on a bus to Christchurch, not fully realizing the distance I had to travel!

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