The Tongariro Crossing

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So, 5.35 a.m. and we are outside the hotel to be picked up by the Tongariro Expeditions minibus, which deposited us at 7 a.m. at the trailhead. We’d passed through a layer of cloud and were in lovely sunny weather above it. Armed with maps, guidelines for how long each section should take, and dire warnings about our fate if we missed the last bus at the trail end pick up point at 4.30 pm., we set off on our epic 17 Km ‘tramp’. I had been very worried about this, as I have not walked so far over such rough terrain for years, since well before knee trouble. However, I trusted that dosing up on diclofenac and plenty of PMA would see me through - no choice really, once you begin, because you’re effectively stranded.

The walk is described as an opportunity to experience some of the most scenic and active volcanic areas of the national park, and is divided into distinct sections. The first part was an easy, slightly uphill walk on a well maintained path to the head of the valley. No problems, other than Eric’s leg feeling very stiff, which slowed him down to my snail’s pace. The next section, Jacob’s Ladder, was a really steep scramble up the valley head to emerge on the plateau above at the base of Mount Ngaurohue, a perfectly formed conical volcano - Mordor, or the Mountain of Doom in Lord of the Rings. It is possible ( so they say) to climb to the top, but it looked horrendous - loose ash, no path.

Next was an easy section across the Southern Crater - dead flat, but the crater walls around resembled a Welsh slag heap! Following this was the next climb to get up onto the rim of the volcanically active Red Crater. For our efforts we were rewarded with stunning views down into the chasm of the crater, but as soon as we hit the ridge a violent wind sprang up as if from nowhere, and was so stong that it felt as if we would be imminently blown off the ridge and into the crater, so we were really glad to get to the top and over the other side, out of the wind. What a stupendous view from the top! Massive vistas all around, back to Lake Taupo, and down below, the glitering Emerald Lakes. Unfortunately, the way down was an incredibly steep slope, composed of loose ash, but we slithered safely down and stopped for a break, still well on schedule.

Then across the southern Crater, to the last short climb up to Blue Lake, then the start of the long- - and I mean long ; descent.- - 4 hours. At first it was OK, but the track wound on for ever, and although not steep, the incessant jarring was causing more and more knee pain, and I became slower and slower. Eventually we reached the Ketetahi Hut, from which it was 2 hours to the end.

From here the descent got much steeper, although on a well maintained path. The final section went into the ‘bush’ = ie. woodland, but was composed of never ending very steep and high steps, which I had huge difficulty negotiating, each one being very painful.

Finally staggered to the end just before 3.30 pm, feeling like I’d never walk another step all holiday. But back in the hotel in our hot double jacuzzi spa bath with view and a glass of chardonnay which had been cooling in the fridge, the pain was eased, and we managed to walk the few steps from car to restaurant for dinner. Followed by another early night and a good sleep!

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Photos

Mount Ngauruhoe
Mount Doom

Mountain of Doom
Looking back from Red Crater ridge

Blue Lake
View from Red Crater

the Emerald Lakes
downhill all the way...

Emerald Lakes
Resting

View southwards
Looking back over North Crater towards Red Crater and Mount Ngauruhoe

The long descent
Looking towards Lake Taupo