Denise Harper

Denise and Eric

Hello everyone. Denise and Eric are fifty-something,living near Reading, with 2 sons; Alan - training to be an accountant/auditor, and Ralph, a 1st year med student at UCL.



Travel Blog Posts


Independence Day

Published: August 15th 2007South America » Ecuador » South » Cuenca
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Denise and Eric
August 10th 2007

Today, August 10th is a national holiday - Independence Day. We were picked up at 8 a.m by a new guide for a morning tour of the Cajas Park, a wild area about 30 Km West of Cuenca. On the way out, we saw huge pigs which had been slit then flattened being turned on spit roasts at roadside cafes for the holiday day trippers. The Cajas is a wild area, rather reminiscent of Wales or Scotland, but of course, much higher - between 3500 -4200 metres. It is often cloudy or raining so we were lucky to have a glorious sunny day. We made 3 stops, the first after ascending many hairpins to arrive at the Continental Divide at 4,200 metres. We only climbed a little way, but it left us breathless, and the wind ... read more



Cuenca

Published: August 15th 2007South America » Ecuador » South » Cuenca
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Denise and Eric
August 9th 2007

On our first morning in Cuenca, Jairo took us on a morning tour of the town - which is Ecuador's 3rd largest city. It is a beautiful town, and a World Heritage Site, with colonial architecture, cobbled streets and public plazas full of greenery. First stop was at a viewpoint on a hill above the town, from which we had a fabulous view, which really accentuated the style of architecture, as what was so striking was the multitude of red roofs below us. We then went to a famous ceramics studio, full of beautiful things, some of which which I couldn't resist the temptation to purchase, then on to the genuine panama hat factory. This is a local cottage industry, with the hats being made in the surrounding areas, then brought to the factory for finishing, ... read more



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Denise and Eric
August 8th 2007

We sailed overnight to Santa Fe, going ashore to walk the trail up on to the ridge in search of the Santa Fe iguanas, which are a lighter colour here than elsewhere. This landing beach was home to a number of fairly aggressive male sea lions, which we tried to give a wide berth. On the second part of the trail there were a number of male sealions who had lost the fight for territory or females and who had retired out of the fray to rest up. Afterwards we snorkelled from the panga along the edge of an offshore islet - lots of fishes again, and some very playful sealions. Once again I failed to see the shark which the others noticed just after entering the water. The water was as cold as ever, but ... read more



The Devil's Nose ride

Published: August 11th 2007South America » Ecuador » Centre » Riobamba
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Denise and Eric
August 8th 2007

We arose at 5 a.m. to be collected to board the Devil's Nose train, which only runs on 3 days of the week. It is a 7 hour ride, culminating in the descent then ascent again of the Devil's Nose, a very steep hillside, which the train negotiates via a number of switchbacks, which involve the railway line being perched perilously close to sheer drops in a number of places. The line was a triumph of engineering, but costly in terms of lives lost building it. It used to run to the coast, but landslides have closed parts of the line, so now it just operates as a tourist train. Until recently it was possible to sit on top of the carriages for a fantastic view, but since 2 Japanese tourists were killed in recent times ... read more



Cuenca

Published: August 10th 2007South America » Ecuador » North » Quito
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Denise and Eric
August 8th 2007

We travelled down to the South of Ecuador, taking 2 days from Quito, through glorious countryside and mountains, to Cuenca, a beautiful city containing many spanish colonial style buildings, old cobbled streets and many lovely churches and public buildings. There were only the four of us travelling with our own driver and seperate guide, so it felt quite exclusive - real small group travel. The first day involved many hours of travelling down the Avenue of the Volcanoes. Leaving Quito took some time, as the city is so long, but the journey gave a fantastic glimpse at various aspects of rural life in Ecuador. We stopped at the fascinating market in Latacunga, where all sorts of fruit, veg, grain, and some handicrafts were on sale. We then climbed higher and higher ( in the vehicle) skirting ... read more



Bartolome

Published: August 21st 2007South America » Ecuador » Galápagos
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Denise and Eric
August 7th 2007

What bliss - curled up with a book in the sunshine on deck - this is how we dreamed it would be. Heaven. A shout from the upper deck had us all rushing to the side to see a dolphin riding the prow wave. Leaping and diving, it kept weaving from side to side just in front of the boat. Barolome must be the most photographed island in the Galapagos - and with good reason. We arrived in the early afternoon and anchored in the bay close to the needle like Pinnacle Rock. Binoculars came out, and we were delighted to see a couple of Galapagos penguins on shore. Having landed we then made the ascent via a short climb, then 300 steps over the stark lava landscape, covered with lava flows, craters and cinder cones, ... read more



Santa Cruz pictures

Published: August 20th 2007South America » Ecuador » Galápagos
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Denise and Eric
August 6th 2007

We sailed in the afternoon - rather chilly and rough - one by one everyone vanished, mostly to lie down in their cabins. Arrived in Santa Cruz - went for a meal where lobster was recommended by Fabricio - but it was off the menu. Nevertheless, a very pleasant restaurant and a change to be off the boat. The next day we went ashore for a visit to the Darwin Centre and the famous Lonesome George, who made an obliging appearance. Then walked back to town and out the other side to the glorious Tortuga Bay - then back again. After a pleasant lunch back in town, Jude and I tried to indulge in a spot of shopping, thwarted by shops being shut till 3 pm., whilst the men stayed with their beers in a bar. ... read more



Galapagos 2

Published: August 19th 2007South America » Ecuador » Galápagos
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Denise and Eric
August 3rd 2007

Photos for Floreana, Isabella and Santa Cruz... read more



Galapagos Islands

Published: August 7th 2007South America » Ecuador » North » Quito
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Denise and Eric
August 2nd 2007

Have just discovered that in our absence there have been problems with the blog server - will try to restore missing entries later, but for now - Galapagos report follows. We have just arrived back in Quito after the most amazing trip to the Galapagos Islands, way out in the Pacific, off the coast of Ecuador. We were in a small (16 berth) yacht, but nevertheless very comfortable, though we are glad to be back in a bathroom which doesn’t sway and a bed which stays horizontal! There was a good mix on the boat - all ages and nationalities - British, German, Israeli and a Dutch family who, as it turned out, were part owners of the boat. We were sailing for 8 days over a distance of 370 nautical miles, criss-crossing backwards and forwards ... read more



The Cloud Forest

Published: November 30th -0001South America » Ecuador » North » Quito
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Denise and Eric
July 29th 2007

We have just returned from an overnight stay in the Bellavista Cloud Forest - and very damp and cloudy it was, too. We left glorious sunshine in Quito, crossed over the divide, and after an hour and half started up the 12 Km dirt road to the lodge - set high up on the mountainside on a very steep slope deep in the forest. The cloud came down almost straight away - as it does every afternoon, and it became quite cool and wet. The lodge was fairly unique in design - very rustic. We went for a shortish walk in the forest - which was longer than we expected, then after lunch had our own guided walk, which was very interesting, but thought it would finish Bill off, as the return part was a near ... read more






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