The Wairarapa Coast

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Wednesday 17 December 2008

The Wairapa Coast - Wellington to Napier


Captains Log: (for the seafarers amongst you) We motored out of Wellington Harbour on a southerly heading for about an hour then headed east mainly under motor for 4-5 hours until past Cape Palliser. We turned northeast 14 nautical miles south east of Cape Palliser and basically maintained that course for the next 24 hours under motor and/or sail. Just nor-nor-west of Cape Kidnappers we headed northwest towards the lights of Napier, the last 12 hours under motor due to no wind. The entry into Napier was very confusing and difficult to find the small navigation lights against the plethora of background lights. In the end we followed a coastal container vessel through the channel, and berthed at the Napier Yacht Club Marina.

The bigger story: It was time. Our journey around the North Island began on Wednesday, 9 December 2008 when we set out from Wellington bound for Napier. John Hadfield, a great friend of the Captains, joined us for the trip, and with great excitement but also a degree of trepidation we left Chaffers Marina for the last time. It was a particularly poignant time for the Captain as this is the realization of a dream he has held for some time. I think both John and I felt privileged to be sharing it with him.

Ahead of us lay a journey that was to last approximately 36 hours and which would challenge all of us on different levels. It was my first time on a yacht while it was travelling overnight. It was the first time any of us had made the journey up the Wairarapa Coast and a first for the Captain and John to enter Napier Harbour. It was the first real test for the boat after the problems we had encountered in the Sounds. And it was the first time we had had to handle the dynamics of living in such close confines, under pressure, and without an option of getting off until we reached our destination. My personal approach to anything challenging is that it is only ever really difficult the first time, so I was looking forward to having all these firsts behind us.

At a briefing session before we set off the Captain had set the course he had charted, discussed and decided on our shift system (a rotational shift of 1 hour on the helm and two hours off) and gone over what he expected from us and the trip. He has charted our course on the attached map so you can see what we covered.

For this log entry I am going to take a slightly different tack than my previous entries. To try and explain it all in a sequential way would take far too long and would not be that interesting. For me looking back it was a series of impressions and experiences and I am going to write randomly and hope you can piece it all together.

We were in sight of land at all times. Our distance from shore ranged from 5 to 14 nautical miles. After leaving Wellington Harbour the only real habitation we saw clearly from the shore until we reached Napier was Ngawhi which is just west of Cape Palliser (see the photograph). I guess I was quite surprised by the look of the land from the sea. I expected it to be lushly covered with plant life, but you cant see anything like that from those distances except where there is forestation. At one stage we saw trees on the horizon, I thought it looked like the Ponderosa (anybody remember the Bonanza days?). The Captain thought it looked like the land had a crew cut, a very good description really, or maybe even a mowhawk. The landscape changes of course as you move up the Island, and I suspect aspect has a lot to do with the look of it. The wind would have a huge affect on the shore. The southern reach from Wellington to Cape Palliser is quite picturesque, but once you start up the island it changes and becomes more desolate in places. Sadly I was unable to take any photo’s that do justice to what we were actually experiencing and seeing.

The things you begin to look for are the outstanding features, the Capes. In daylight hours we saw Cape Palliser (and the lighthouse, then 18 hours later Cape Turnaround (it looks like a flat top mountain) which got The Captain excited because it was major point in the first voyage of Captain Cook (where he turned around - hence the name). We passed Cape Kidnappers in the dark. I was delighted to spot the lighthouse at Castle Point having walked up to it on a visit there last year. It looks very different from the sea. Blackhead Point was passed by without even realizing it.

The weather stayed calm and clear for the entire trip. The only thing that was really missing for much of the time was the wind we needed to sail. That meant the motor went on for much of the time although we did manage many hours of brilliant sailing. For me this meant really beginning to get used to the boat and how she handles. I am still not used to moving around the boat when it is heeling significantly but I am no longer perturbed by it and I can now sleep through anything. I have yet to feel really confident at the helm when we are sailing in big seas, but I know it will come with the teaching his Captainship is giving me.

The men were in their element when we were able to sail. As the wind quickens, they become alert and an excitement seems to come over them. The sails are adjusted and they settle into the motion. Both have different styles in handling the boat. The Captain sits to the side for much of the time, while John stands and balances (I have yet to master this balancing act, but it is awesome to watch). It is hard to explain, but they look at peace with themselves and the world when they are at the helm and going with the wind.

Having to motor for hour after hour meant getting used to the sound of the engine and also that the sea was very calm. We were in two meter swells which are really interesting. It is like reaching the top of a hill - at the crest the view is widespread, and then you sink down into the valley between the swells and all you can see is the wave moving away from you towards the shore.

I have witnessed some spectacular sunsets in my lifetime. The benchmark for me was standing at the top of the Cairo Tower watching the bright red sun over Egypt set behind the Pyramids in the distance (this was nothing short of 10/10). Our first night out we all enjoyed a spectacular sunset (maybe 7/10) and the second it got up to 8/10. While I had expected the sunsets, I was not prepared for the sunrise. I was on duty at the helm as the sun came up on the first morning. I could see a red glow on the horizon for some time, and then a red ball started to rise. By the time it had cleared the horizon the red had disappeared and it was a perfectly formed yellow ball hovering above the sea. Spectacular! 10/10.

We had to motor all night. Averaging about 5-6 knots, we settled into the routine. That first night we had a perfect full moon lighting the way. The night sky was so clear the stars were just magnificent. The hour of the shift seemed to pass quickly with so much to think about and watch. The things you are most concerned with are any vessels which might be approaching and keeping to the course. That first night with the moon reflecting off the smooth ocean and showing the swells undulating towards then away from you….well it was an experience I will never forget. It became almost personal because for that hour you are alone, at one with it all while the others sleep. Before you know it the hour is coming to and end and activity is taking place. The position is checked and charted. The log is filled in. You advise your relief of anything significant that has happened. Then you go down into the cabin, take off the life jacket and the harness and settle down to try and sleep for an hour or so until your next shift. When your turn comes around again, you feel refreshed enough to enjoy the experience all over again.

Food becomes important. It is essential to keep up energy levels. Hakura has a large stock of food on board - the non perishable variety, plus a freezer full of bits and pieces (much craypot bait collected by the Captain, and some edible stuff). However, John and I had gone shopping for perishables and snack food before leaving Wellington. By the time we had finished we did wonder where it was all going to be stowed but we managed to get it all put away. Snack foods, fresh fruit, all sorts of things.

Speaking of food, it did become the source of some amusement. After 24 hours I was really hanging out for something hot in my tummy. We were in a brisk breeze at this time and sailing, so the sea was pretty choppy. The Captain offered to make scrambled eggs. Yahoo, just what the doctor ordered. He really amazes me the way he can manage the galley in just about any condition. John was doing an excellent job on the helm and had managed to keep things relatively steady as she went, when we hit some really choppy waves. There was yelp from downstairs and there was the captain standing, dripping in uncooked scrambled eggs and swearing while he clutched the frypan and tried to balance it so no more would be spilled. Ever thought of using a pot Captain? BUGGER … no!

The natural result of eating and drinking is the need to rid ones body of the waste material. Using the head (toilet) can be very challenging in a high sea. The only casualty of the trip occurred when I needed relief of this type. The object of the exercise under sail, is to get down into the cabin, try to predict where the boat is going to roll, lurch across the cabin and manoeuvre oneself into the head. Once inside the seat comes up and using the walls, basin or anything else at hand to help for balance you disrobe to the extent you need to accomplish the mission at hand. You can then be seated, though this may take a few lurches to accomplish. Bliss is almost at hand when the boat heels and jumps over another wave so that the toilet lid begins patting you quite firmly on the back. Finally you have accomplished the task at hand, used the hand pump to expel said waste, hands are washed and the lid is back in its favourite unobstructed position. You then go through the balancing act again to re-robe yourself and begin the lurch back to the cockpit by way of the main cabin. Having accomplished everything to the lurch through the cabin stage, I was on my way out of the head when the boat heeled sharply and I lost my balance. Luckily my fall was stopped when my head hit the opposite wall. The impact jarred my neck badly, instant pain and instant nausea. The Captain was in the main cabin and heard the impact, and came a lurching. It slowed me up a bit for the rest of the trip, but I have been to see a Doctor and there will be no permanent damage (boat is okay - Captain comment) I may have suffered from a mild concussion and muscle spasms in my neck and shoulders. I was given PILLS and clearly have a very thick head. As a consequence of this mishap and the desire of the other members of the crew not to share my fate (whimps) a new tack has been developed onboard Hakura called the POOTACK.

I slept through our entry into Napier having had my turn on the helm, and we were in the marina when I woke. The Marina was awesome in regard to the friendliness of the people, the facilities and the information pack they give you. John left the boat to travel back to Hamilton and we spent the next two nights there. We managed a walk into the city to have a good look around before we left.

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Photos

Cape Palliser
Ngawi to the west of Cape Palliser

We got there!
The mess is typical of the end of a voyage.