I Ain't Afraid of No Sharks!


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Oceania » French Polynesia
November 1st 2015
Published: September 5th 2017
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Geo: -16.4993, -151.74

Volcanic peaks dominate this small, unspoiled island surrounded by miles of aqua lagoons. While many tourists wander the shops, sun on snow-white beaches, rent a jeep, moped or bicycle and travel the single road that circles the island, we decide to play around in the Bora Bora Lagoon. We have arranged a lagoon tour with Raanui Tours. We need to meet at 8:30am and this port is a tender port so we need to get started early. Additionally, we're told that the operation has changed to thwart tender ticket scammers. So what's happening, people are getting in line once, asking for 10 or 15 tickets, saying they need them for a group of people they're going with, then keep all these early numbered tickets for themselves, using two on each tender day and never having to stand in line again. So the ship started issuing and calling the numbers in reverse order, from highest to lowest number which puts numbers like #40 first and #1 last. That'll teach them. Also, you must be present in line to get a tender ticket. No more bunches passed out to one individual. Remembering back to Tonga on 9/30 when Dale got 8 tickets for our entire group, it worked well for us but any any procedure is only as sound as the most nefarious person using it.

With tenders first leaving at 8am, we need to get our tickets early so, before breakfast, we both stand in line at 7am. We wait in line until 7:45 when they finally begin issuing the tickets. Now we shoot upstairs for our quick breakfast, waiting for our number #34 to be called. We're called around 8:30am and access the second tender, getting to Bora Bora a little late. We find Raanui, pay our $70pp and board our boat. It's very spacious, powered by two 200hp Suzuki outboards. While it's cloudy over the mountains and backside of the island, the lagoon is presently sunny and Leo, our guide and pilot, changes the order of our stops to fit the weather. Our first stop, swimming with the sharks.

We arrive at the chosen site and, after chumming the water with tuna, the sharks circle the boat while we all take pictures. I place the GoPro under the water using my selfie stick and sharks actually bump my camera, curious as to what it is. Now we're all invited to swim with them. Many won't go, including Mom, so rather than wasting time trying to talk her into it, I jump in with my camera on my wrist.

There's probably 15 sharks patrolling the area just off the boat. They're black tip sharks, about 4-5' in length and, while they're only curious about me, they enjoy the tuna raining on them from above. Leo, who by now has entered the water, finds a larger lemon shark, grabs his dorsal fin, and rides behind the shark as it circles the boat in search of the tuna samples. It's hard to describe snorkeling in the midst of all these sharks. I alternate between video and photos in my attempt to capture and preserve the moment. It seems like a half hour when I return to the boat to get Mom to go in. She finally agrees but it's too late. We are off to another location. Snooze and you lose.

Next stop is a little more difficult to find and Leo circles around in an area known for sting rays. He finds them, anchors and invites everyone into the water to meet the stingrays. Finally, Mom gets in and is immediately "attacked" by stingrays while sharks circle in anticipation. I get the whole thing on the GoPro. Leo throws two stingrays on Karen to complete the experience. Next he finds an octopus, puts it on his head, then puts it on the arm of any volunteers. I volunteer Karen and he quickly obliges. As he removes it, the suction cups on its legs struggle to grip her arm but finally release. Yep, all on video. Now the sharks join in so we're all floating around together. Mom finally experiences the shark fest and we hang out here for an hour. She returns to the boat a little early. With plenty of video and pictures opportunities in hand, we move again, this time to the Coral Garden. Here we can snorkel right over the coral in water only about 5' deep. Mom joins in but finds the current too much for her to compete with. Bill, our other guide, has her grab a life ring and tows her out through the coral, swimming and walking to provide the power and picking up a couple of other women on the way. Mom really likes this.

Zooming across the glassy lagoon at high speed, we pass the ms Amsterdam on our way to our next stop, an area rich in tropical fish of the smaller variety. Over the side we go. Hundreds of fish, aided by generous bread crumbs spread all around by our guides, circle about us. Mom sits this one out. Hey, after you swim amidst the danger of sharks and rays, who wants to hang with these little fishies?

Now we take off for a ride around the entire island. Our powerful craft moves quickly through the lagoon, stopping periodically to point out landmarks such as bunkers and cannons from WWII and the numerous hotel accommodations. Bora Bora has become synonymous with overwater bungalows. Many of these lavish floating villas have glass floors that supply a window to the lagoon life below. This locale is unique in the fact that most Bora Bora resort hotels are built on their own tiny island, or motu, and visits from their location must be arranged by boat transfer. HAL offers a one night stay at Pearl Beach Resort at $1100pp. We'll pass on that excursion.

In the center of the island are the remnants of an extinct volcano rising to two peaks, Mount Pahia and Mount Otemanu, the highest point at 2,385 feet. We view those mountains from all sides as we circle the island, stopping for a few minutes at a small motu and then back to the dock. Mom tips our guides $10 each for their part in making today an enjoyable experience. She surveys goods for sale on a few craft tables at the pier before we take the tender back to the ship.

First in order is to shower off the sand and salt water, clean our snorkeling and camera equipment and venture poolside to have a salad and 1/2 sandwich. Ok. I did add a tiny bit of berry cobbler to my plate. I continue with my blog work in the library while Mom reads, then I notice my snoring while reclining in the fancy lounge chair wakes me up so we return to our stateroom. Quickly dressing for the dinner, we visit the La Fountaine dining room and join two couples, one with whom we dined with last night and the other, a younger Russian couple who we had thought were German. You know, that tanned gal with the thong I think I referred to before.I feel they are an interesting couple with things to say but our language barrier prevents this other than head nodding and smiles.

There is no show tonight, just a movie and we opt out, returning to the room where I finish today's blog and Mom dries our swim clothes for tomorrow adventure, another lagoon tour.

Note: Since daylight savings time ended this weekend, we made no adjustment on our side to clock settings so we're now only two hours behind PST. We will fix that by the time we get to San Diego. I'm anxiously awaiting the opportunity to post GoPro pics and videos taken of Karen. I can't post them here.


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