Our 25th Anniversary Trip

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We went to French Polynesia for a 2 week cruise to celebrate Ds birthday and our 25th anniversary.
3/18 - South Pacific Day 2 Bora Bora

Yesterday we left Tahiti and embarked on the Paul Gauguin.

After another good breakfast our bags were picked up by GCT and we were boarded on busses for a tour of the area. We visited the home of the author of Mutiny on The Bounty (name ??? James Norman Hall), got some beautiful views of the Bay and, generally, saw a little of the area. One stop was fun because several generations of a family were having a Tahitian tailgate party with lots of singing....and many smiles. As all the travel guides say....the Tahitians are a warm friendly people. From there we drove to the ship and were on board in less than 5 minutes and registered within a few minutes after that. The ship is beautiful as is our room. We unpacked (yeah right WE) and showered and went up to dinner to meet with our Email friends....Barbara and Dee. After a good meal we went up to the pool deck for a "sail away" party where many of the staff were introduced. The band's first two songs were so bad we were cringing. After those songs they played mostly oldies and were really quite good. Drinks were passed out freely. The policy aboard is all and any kind of liquor or drinks you want are FREE !! There was dancing for a while and the young Polynesian dance troupe entertained for a while. They were all beautiful and very personable as they came around and asked the guys to dance. Our two stiffs declined, (this is Dick writing I'm now editing) but promised they would at some point on the cruise.

Today we slept too late for breakfast, but got to have Danish and coffee before we had to go for the mandatory muster station drill. We didn't even have to put on the life vests or carry them because they are stored at the muster station. Ours is muster station D. 😊

James Michener described Bora Bora as the most beautiful island in the world. It is fantastic but not having visited all the islands in the world ...yet ... I can only describe is. There are 2 towering volcanic, craggy mountains that come down and melt into the sea which provides a spectacular backdrop for the crystalline multi color water. Bora Bora has the largest lagoon of all the islands we will visit.

We had a nice buffet lunch and then Dick went for a nap (what else is new....of course, he is a year older now) and I went into Town on the tender to pick up a few things. (okay that was Dick writing as he thought I would write. You KNOW I don't write the way he does.) Barbara stayed on board so Dee and I went and had a black pearl education. It's very interesting how they are farmed and graded and they are very expensive. Apparently each vendor/supplier grades their own and there is no standard so ...I guess if you like it, and the price, you buy it. I'm not sure I even like them all that much. Since it was Sunday I couldn't get the things I wanted because most of the places were close. Not that there were many places to begin with. Picked up band aids and postcards and stamps.

I came back and went right off again to go snorkeling at the motu (beach/island) used by the ship....it was FANTASTIC !!!!

Today, St. Patty's day, we went for our photo safari boat tour. It was truly heavenly. The weather was great, the water nicely warm and the driver, Damien, was very informative. He took us to the deepest part of the lagoon and a storm kicked up, the waves were rough and lightening started so we had to go to a different place. Again without a comparison the place we went to was loaded with beautiful coral - deep turquoise, navy, purple, lavender and so many colored fish I couldn't even name them all. There was another foursome from the Tahitian Princess who we're obnoxious and rude and we're glad they weren't from our ship. Despite them we had a lovely time.

We're enjoying Dee and Barbara's company. We sail tonight for Rangiroa in the Tuamotu islands. This is where we hope to do the Drift snorkel. We'll see how the weather is. It is cyclonic season here but because of el Niño it's been very mild.

That's it for today.

3/19 - Some interesting things

So - here are some things I just remembered in no particular order.

There is a group of a dozen or so from NY. The guys are all NY firemen, retired and were involved in 911. There is a captain who is really big and jolly, there's Jimmy who is a caricature of a NYFD. Irish with NY accent, little with broad shoulders and wiry, yet full of funny stories, jokes, loud and yet very solicitous of someone else's welfare. Seems contradictory but so obvious. Today being St. Patty's day they are celebrating and wearing green. I brought green carnations at Michael's for Dick & I to wear tonight. He probably won't so Barbara will.

Today during our snorkel tour we saw an eagle ray, a sting ray, a black tipped shark and lots of colorful fish. I may have told you that but it really was impressive.

We celebrated our anniversary at dinner last night and they brought us a celebratory cake. They also brought birthday cake and hou'derves (sp?) to the cabin with glasses of champagne. They also had a message on the TV congratulations.

I'm sitting in the aft lounge, listening to the piano player, watching people have their afternoon snack. I think they said there are no hours when food is not available. The staff are delightful and remember your name almost after the first time. Where's Dick you ask? Take one guess ...napping.

When Dee and I went on shore I forgot to mention that the t-shirts were $50 USD!! I'm not that interested in a t-shirt souvenir!

Right now we're leaving Bora Bora, there is a 3/4 moon just over the craggy peaks and the over the water bungalows are in the sunset. WOW.

3/20 - Rangiroa

I tried to send this last night but there was no signal from the room and I didn't feel like getting dressed to go upstairs.

As log as I remembered something from Bora Bora ...we were at the black sand beach where 'Mutiny on the Bounty' was filmed. Oh - you say you don't recall there being a black beach? Well you'd be right. They imported the white sand and covered all the black. The white comes from the ground up coral. The black comes from the water run off from the volcanic soil. Both are very grainy and not powdery. Some beaches are still all coral and you have to wear beach shoes.

Today and tomorrow we're in Rangiroa that's pronounced rang (like a doorbell) eee (like eee) ro (like row row row your boat) uh (like uh oh) So there you have it Rangeeerowuh. It is in the Tuamotu Archipelago. If you were to look on a map it's a ring or looks like a necklace of pearls surrounding the second largest lagoon in the world. Tahiti would fit inside with room left over. Now here's a challenge to see if you are reading this - what's the largest lagoon in the world?

It is a diver's paradise. Too bad we don't dive! The atolls that surround the lagoon are no higher than 10 feet above sea level. No mountains and mainly coconut palms and seagrapes. The locals eat them.

There are only two passes into this immense lagoon through which fresh water, many fish and vessels pass. The color of the water looks like someone took every tube of blue paint and smeared it all around. Eastern Polynesians have occupied the atoll since the 10 century AD.

There are only 2 towns and one is named Tiputa, which in Greek means "nothing" and that's what's there. I went to Avatoru, the other town. There are 2-3,000 inhabitants, that's it. Only 2 taxis and they were gone when I got off the tender. So I walked a little bit and found a little, barefoot, almost toothless Marquesan who now lives in Rangiroa sitting in his little car. I asked him if he spoke English and he said, "Une petite peut." I said the same back to him and he laughed. Using sign language I asked him if he would take me around the island/motu/atoll. He said, "Oui." I asked how many people he held up 4 finger. I asked how much with sign language and he said in English, "3,000 francs." ;-) So I Shangai'd a couple and off we went. We stopped anywhere we wanted for pictures, he took us to a winery. Yes there is Tahitian wine made on Rangiroa. Don't ask me how. Google it. (vin de Tahiti) It's not a serious threat to European vineyards. We saw a school and some churches and stopped at a shack in front of a house where the couple designs and sells ...guess what ... Tahitian black pearls. Black is a misnomer. Tahitian black pearls come in a rainbow of colors. Surprise ...One necklace just called out to me.

Snorkeling in Tiputa pass is out. The tides are wrong, the driver said it very dangerous and the people who did dive there said is was very rough. Oh well I'll have to forgo this adventure. Oh by the way did I mention Dick stayed on board?

We stay overnight, I don't know why, and leave tomorrow at noon. I'm not getting up at 7 to go on a beach! So we'll just have to wait for the next stop - Fatu Hiva in the Marquesas.

3/21 - Day at Sea

The Marquesas are so far from anywhere it takes a day and a half at sea to get there. So all we did was eat a little, sleep a little, eat a little, sleep a little, eat a little, sleep a little (sing it like the song from Music Man).

The itinerary changed from Fatu Hiva to Hiva Oa because a freighter came in to Fatu Hiva and since it is zodiac landing the captain changed to a different island.

That's it for today. Still enjoying and relaxing.

3/22 - Hiva Oa

Well Dick slept all day today because he was up all night. The Tiki Tummy got him. He's fine today.

Hiva Oa or the Marguesas Islands is 1,000 miles from Tahiti. Barbara, Dee and I went over to the island where we were greeted with a traditional Marquesan drum and shell horn blowing welcome and presented with beautiful looking and smelling flower leis. There was a 10 year olds girl who gave me mine so I gave her those colorful plastic bracelets the kids all wear in the states. (Well at least Samantha does.) She and her mother were very pleased. There was a Le Truck full of people and we didn't feel like being part of a crowd and there are only 2 taxis on the island. So I did my thing and asked if there was anyone who would take us around. One man made a call and found a young lady to take us around today. Her name is Liana, she teaches 1st grade and because today is Good Friday she was off. (Also all the shops, banks and Post Office are closed too.) She borrowed her father's BIG truck, we all fit comfortably in the cab and off we went. Once again we had a lot of fun even though the communication was jilted. We really felt we were in Polynesia.

She took us up and down roads, or should I say trails, deep into the beautiful lushly forested mountains. We saw a wide variety of trees and flowers: pandanus, banyan, coconut palms, ylang-ylang, grapefruit, mango, papaya, vanilla, banana and you get the idea. We saw Paul Gauguin's grave, he died 1903 and Belgian singer actor Jacques Brel. We went to her in-laws house where she picked pistache, a king of little black, grape looking thing that had a sweet taste but made my teeth feel like there was fur on them. She said they make marmalade out of it and if you eat enough of them your teeth will turn black. Thanks a lot!!!

I asked her if she ever traveled. She said no. She loves her island and has no desire to leave it. She said that when they need to buy big things they go to Tahiti which is a 3 hour flight. Dee said the island is like the Caribbean 40 years ago before tourists and development came. There are less than 2,00 inhabitants and no hotel that we saw.

The tender rides back and forth were very bumpy because there is no coral reef around these islands and the water and waves just come crashing right in to the base of the sides of the mountains which are really the inside of what's left of a blown volcano.

Supposedly, the weather was perfect to see the green flash when the sun sets. It was awesome to see the sun go down but we saw no green flash.

One other interesting thing - we had to set our clocks ahead 1/2 an hour! That's right one half hour time zone here in the Marquesas.

We're off now for Fatu Hiva where we won't have tender service but instead zodiacs. This should be interesting. Reminders of Antarctica but slightly warmer.

3/23 - Fatu Hiva

Today we woke up in Fatu Hiva. There is no pier on this side of the island and we were transported in zodiacs. What an adventure this was.

It started when they had to put life jackets on you. Well ...I needed the chest straps let out and I said I really didn't need more of a life vest then what nature had already provided me. They laughed. Then there were two guys on the landing at the bottom of the gangway stairs. They each held an arm and when then swells came up, and raised the zodiac almost to the level of the landing, they hoisted you over to the two guys on the zodiac which was like a heaving fun house ride. It was the same on the way back. Kind of hairy but what fun.

Once again we were welcomed with flowers, drums and music. We took the Le Truck up the windy road to the teeny tiny town. There were performances by dancers and musicians and also children. Crafts were displayed of tapas - drawings on material, pareos, tikis of wood and stone, wood carvings and a tattoo artist. The Marquesans are known for their unique tattoos. Kidding around Dick and I have been saying when we got here that's the souvenir we would get. WE DID!!! How fun! Dick made arrangements to get a piece of raw/natural wood from the town on the other side of the island. It could be tou, pandana or Marquesan rose wood.

The ship sailed around to the other side of this magnificent island to another teeny tiny town. This time there were tenders and Dick went ashore to get his wood. Dick is here....I was advised by the head writer that I have to add my 2 cents. I had the name of the woman who would sell me the wood (no pun intended) and I had to ask around in town where I could find her. I stopped several people and asked in my fractured French since virtually no one spoke English. A gentleman came up o me and asked me if I was looking for the crafter. I finally figured out what he was asking and answered "yes"..."oui". He then asked me to follow him to her home which I did. I met her mother, father and daughter and we spoke for a while...in French, of course. Somehow or other we actually communicated and I was shown to the woodshed in back of their house. There I picked out a log of rose wood and the Father sawed it to size. We agreed on a price and the deal was done. He then asked me to look at some Tikis he had made and asked me to take some pictures of them as well as he and his Granddaughter. After taking several shots and showing them in the viewer he asked me if I would send them to him. I agreed and he gave me his postal address and that was it. It was virtually all in French and Charades and tremendous fun. I then took my "little log" back to the ship to get ready for our Anniversary ceremony.

Tonight is the anniversary celebration for all the couples who wish to attend. There are 2 honeymoon couples and one couple in their 90s who just got married last week. We are wearing our tuxedo t-shirts. Dor is still pushing me to keep writing. The ceremony was held in a small bar and the open deck outside with a beautiful backdrop view of Virgin's Bay. There were quite a few couples celebrating anniversaries and along with the honeymooners. Each couple was brought out to the deck where they put a hei (a lei worn on the head) on our heads, then wrapped us in a Tahitian wedding blanket. This is usually a quilt made by the couples parents together and after the ceremony it's put on top of the wedding bed. Pictures were taken. A poem written by a Tahitian girl called 'Endless Love' that was very beautiful and emotional.

There was wedding cake and champagne and drinks flowed. We sat out back and watched the sun set in a beautiful display behind the clouds lighting them up like a back lit sculpture. We watched as the stars came out along with a full moon and saw the Southern Cross among the many unfamiliar constellations.

A few interesting things:
Marururu is thank you in Tahitian (OOPS it’s actually Maruuru)
Kaoha is hello in Marquesan

Tonight we sail for Ua Huka.

3/24 - Ua Huka

Ua Huka is the island of the wild horse. There are 539 people and 3,000 wild horse. There are also wild goats running rampant. The island is in a perpetual drought and has a lot of terns on the rocky coast. There is no coral reef and the ocean off the coast is teaming with sea life, filled with sharks, dolphins, manta rays, big turtles and lobster. Tomorrow night we will have lobster for dinner. (We didn't see anything but the birds.)

The tenders took 20 minutes, in 12 foot swells, to get to the steps to get on shore. There were no taxis or private cars available. Since we heard all this before we went to the gangway we decided not to go on this teeny tiny island. Instead we stayed on board, I made a shell necklace and incorporated the shell string Dick made. Yes he strung shells along with me. I worked on a 1,500 piece jigsaw puzzle that is out for anyone to work on. Dick read and took pictures and we both napped.

We're off to the biggest island of the Marquesas and since I don't have the name in front of me I don't know the name. Besides it's getting late and we're getting up early - 8:30 - so nighty night, sweet dreams,

3/25 - Nuku Hiva & first day at sea

Things I forgot to remember - the Marquesans live very simply. They have big new 4 X 4 cab trucks. They go to Tahiti when they want to get some big things and then get back quickly because they don't like the big city, the dirt and the noise.

Every night when we come back to the cabin it's like a scavenger hunt. In addition to folding clothes left out, placing shoes out of the way, the stewardess keeps putting things away in different drawers. It's quite funny.

Okay - today we visited Huku Hiva which means big Island. It is the largest of the Marquesas. This is the island where the fourth episode of Survivor was filmed. We traveled into three of the valleys, saw lots of horses, pigs, roosters, chicks, hens and people and children. The scenery is just magnificent. The simple villages, each with a church, sits along the sea and the mountains surround them.

Tomorrow and the next day are at sea so we'll probably eat a little, sleep a little, eat a little, sleep a little, go to the crew fair and have an ice cream social. Make a Tahitian table mat, (Give it to Kathy for finishing when we come through Chicago on our way home) play some bingo and get frustrated with the Internet!!!!

3/26 - another Day At Sea

Yesterday I participated in a bunch of things and had a great time. Today is a little slower and we have decided that when we get home we will need to start eating healthier. It's amazing how good the service is. There is a buffet at breakfast and before you even sit down they ask what you want and go get it! Your chair is pulled out and pushed under you, the napkin is placed on your lap, which I always take of and make it into a bib, if you get up to get something they rush over to AK what they can get and if you've manager to sneak up and get something they take it from your hands and bring it to the table for you. TI think the just want to keep putting the napkin in my lap.

Tomorrow we go to the Regent's own island for water, sand and BBQ. Should be fun.

Hope you all are well. Of course I haven't heard so I don't know.

3/26 - Travelogue

We are enjoying this trip. The islands are beautiful ...however ...other than the uniqueness of being here thousands of miles from nowhere and the different culture of the Tahitian and Marquesan people it's not much different from other volcanic islands. But just the fact that we ARE here makes it special and on our 25th anniversary. A special place for a special anniversary. Poppy says he's not going to travel this far for our 50th. Instead he said he would do it for his 100th birthday which would be the next year.

I am having a bit of difficulty sending emails which is understandable being in the middle of nowhere. However for what ever the reason I am receiving them and it's so nice to read them so keep 'em coming. Just not a lot of pictures cartoon and emoticons 'til we get home.

3/27 - Taa' ha Motu

It's hard to believe this cruise will be over in just 2 more islands, Moorea & Tahiti. I'm not quite ready for it to be over. Dick is already getting his pre-travel anxiety. We may just have to stay for a bit longer.

We spent most of the day today on the motu. Talk about islands in paradise. The weather was in the hi 80's and some parts of the water felt actually HOT not just in the 90s. The color of the water is every blue in the pallet from deep ocean royal blue to brilliant turquoise that looked like it was lit from below.

We both went snorkeling an saw lots of black opalescent spiny sea urchins, humahumanukanukaapuapa better know as the Hawaiian trigger fish. This is the longest name for any fish and for whatever reason I REMEMBER IT FROM A DOZEN YEARS OR SO AGO. A school of parrot fish, with bodies painted in every color of the rainbow. They were chomping on the coral and rocks so loudly I could hear the clicking. The BBQ food was only so so. It seems the food is hit or miss but that's not important to me. The chocolate ice cream is Eddy's and delicious!

Tomorrow is Moorea and the photo safari. Everyone has told us Moorea is the most beautiful of all the islands we've been to. I hope that's the case.

3/28 - Moorea- Society Islands

Everything we heard about Moorea being the most beautiful was not exaggerated. It is what I had pictured in my mind when I thought of Adventures in Paradise.

We went on a Photo adventure. Took in views and photos from Magic mountain and Belvedere mountain. When we got to Belvedere mountain there were lots of other tour buses. We were 7 in a 'Le Truck' an open sided, benches along the side in the back truck. Our guide said there are too many people here and took us all the way to the top along a root and rock covered trail.

The driver Terry called, "Mama, mama, come here to me." He was talking to me and as I turned around he was breaking a sapling tree. He handed me what became my walking stick. It was very helpful.

We passed several very fine nets and Eric, the guide, had never seen them before. They looked like the nets the Chinese used to catch locust for eating. We came upon a woman sitting with a whole bunch of scientific stuff and a 7 week old puppy. It had mange on it's tail. She is working on her doctorate and is studying seed dispersion here by collecting bird poop. Nice job if you can get it.

The views from the top were indeed spectacular. It was probably the first time on this trip the beauty did in fact blow us away. We could see our ship in the lagoon on the right and the Tahitian Princess in the lagoon on the left. Dick and I made it up and back with no problem. We were the last ones but we took our time and rested when we needed to.

We stopped at a pineapple farm or plantation as they call it. At the agricultural school's plantation and took close ups of what looked like the protea from Jamaica but is called porcelain plant here. There were all kinds of ginger flowers as well as bird of paradise, shrimp plants and lobster claw flowers. Surrounded with the craggy mountains made for what is hopped to be wonderful photos. We had a mini tailgate party where they had grapefruit, which is sweet not tart like ours, pineapple and breadfruit.

We stopped for some fresh juiced fruit. Dick had pineapple and red papaya and I had just pineapple. It was yummy.

Dick is now taking a nap while I rest doing this and reading.

4/1- Happy April Fool's Day Travelogue

We're in the US and my body doesn't know if it's day or night. It's dark out and we have to get up at 6 but I can't sleep. The clock says it around 2 or 3. Dick is sleeping so I'm typing by the light of the screen. I figured I put this connection to good use.

We had a nice long flight home. I stretched out on the three seats. Once again we got lucky with a whole row to ourselves. I guess I must have slept because of not being tired now.

I have uploaded to http://www.flickr.com/photos/2ds just a sampling of my pictures, unedited because we have to get up soon to leave for our flights home. Dick's are in RAW format so I couldn't put any of his up. Dee and Barbara are going to send theirs to us. So some of all of them will be put up later.

Will send last days travelogue and more pictures later.

love and Gentle Hugs,

;-D

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Photos

Ua Huka dressing up for ceremony
We joined the other passengers who were celebrating their anniversaries and honeymoons at a party for all of us. There was one just married couple she 93 and he 81 - talk about robbing the cradle

Ua Huka The Tahitian Blanket Ceremony aboard ship
The Tahitian wedding blanket quilt is made ny both sets of parents. The couple is then wrapped in it to wish good future and many children. It is then laid on the marriage bed. Okay - we're well past the many children part.

Fatu Hiva original Marquesan tatoos
Celebrating our 25th wedding anniversary with original Marquesan tatoos. Nice reminder of fantastic trip done by a local Marquesan artist. The desgins were hi as he went along. The placement was mine. And no - it didn't hurt. Just annoying.

Fatu Hiva Marquesan Tatoo artist
I watched him carefully before having my tatoo done. He changed his gloves, needle and ink and opend up new packages before beginning a new person. It was in a gym!!! Open windows and doors and very hot.

Fatu Hiva - It's ok. Don't worry.
This young Marquesan girl comforts Barbara as she is about to get HER FIRST tatoo. I just told her to watch where she put her hand.

Fatu Hiva What is the saying?
- in a pig's ass?