Nuka Hiva, French Polynesia

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June 12
Nuka Hiva, French Polynesia
We made it safe and sound!!!!

Hello everyone, we have now been in Nuka Hiva for over 24 hours, arriving yesterday, putting down the anchor and sighing a big sense of relief, a full nights sleep and no more hand steering for a few days 😊

We had a good day yesterday, mix of motor sailing and broad reaching passing through the islands and taking in all the majestic scenery, as well as catching a few fish on the way. They were more of the same we caught the other day and as we still had fish in the fridge, we unhooked them and let them go. We more or less threw the watch system out the window after about 8.00am and people just took turns on the helm when and if they felt like it. Debs soaked up the chance for another foot and leg massage and a bit more sunbaking but she turned around and made a beautiful lunch of leftovers in toasted tortillas. We arrived in the anchorage after lunch among about 20 other yachts of various nationalities and the only boat we knew was another aussie registered boat owned by a Dutchman and his Japanese wife who now live in Townsville and whom we met in Panama and saw again in the Galapagos.

The anchorage we are in on the island of Nuka Hiva appears to be the crater of an extinct volcano where one side has caved in and let the sea flood in. So basically for about 320 degrees around us are these magnificent big mountain sides, green as green and simply stunning. The water is a tad murkey and we have been advised not to swim here because of the number of sharks in the bay, attracted by the byproduct of the local fish market on the shoreline. When I say fishmarket, it is literally a number of bench type tables where the daily catch is brought out for sale and dismemberment.

We filled up our water tanks with the 200 odd litres of water we had left, with everyone intending to at least have a sponge bath before going to bed. We were greated by a norwegian yachtie who came over and gave us two beautiful big grapefruit and gave us the low down of the island. He is sailing with his pregnant wife, Anna and one year old daughter Liva and as I type, they are getting ready to come and join us for drinks and a bite to eat.

Layni got our little arrival party ready with a bottle of champagne, a couple of beers and a couple of cans of coke, some pringle and some nuts. We all had some champagne to celebrate, even Layni who had a little liquor glass full and as you know how much Layni likes to have a chat, well she really got going after her thimble size drink. We all sat back and relaxed and reminisced about the passage and were all feeling on top of the world. Not being hungry, Debs and I sponge bathed and went to bed, leaving the kids to make up some dinner and watch a movie. I think Debs and I were in bed by about 7.30 and asleep by about 7.31 and didnt stir until about 7.30 this morning, feeling totally relaxed, refreshed and recharged.

I went up on deck and to my extreme delight found a big plastic bag with three huge fresh baguettes inside, complements of the norwegions on La Familia. Evidently the bakery is open between 4.00am and 6.00am and you need to get your bread between those hours or wait till the afternoon and get it from the supermarket in the village. You should have seen the look on the faces of Debs and the kids when I brought them down below, it was like I was holding manna from heaven so within minutes we were all up top, devouring these beautiful crisp, oh so fresh baguettes, it was just the best thing, having warm fresh bread after so long without such treats.

So breakfast was had and Debs issued her instructions for the morning; clean the boat. So each of us was issued with tasks to get the boat back looking like she was loved and adored again and after a couple of hours she looks sparkling new again. We then had some lunch and headed into the village for a look around and searching for the showers. We have been told not to drink the local water in this anchorage as it is not potable so with the limited water on board and the very strong desire to feel clean again, we were looking for the public showers. Well we found them and would rate them as not the cleanest showers we have ever had but they did the job and we are feeling much, much cleaner and even more refreshed than before.

We had a look around the two small supermarkets and were pleasently surprised at the variety of food and the prices which arent too bad considering just where we are. The alcohol is a different story though. We had been warned that beer is about $4.00 a can in French Polynesia and were told to stock up in Panama, which we did. I didnt really think that beer could be that expensive but now can attest that it is not $4.00 a can, it is $5.00 a can!!!! Thank goodness our bilges have heaps stowed away. Wine is about $20.00 a bottle but we also have enough wine on board to see us out for a while. The French cheese is not too bad and we might just have a little indulge there with some nice fresh bread in a day or so. I did spy an leg of New Zealand lamb that was within budget so who knows that roast lamb dinner might not be too far away.

We have purchased some wi-fi but the connection is not much quicker than our sat phone so at the moment guys, skype calling may well have to wait until Tahiti I am sorry to say. Same goes for gmail emails but we will continue to use this form of contact for as long as we need to.

So, again, really happy to report that all is well on board. We will hang here for a couple of days and then go exploring a bit further around the island where some pretty spectacular anchorages are supposed to be, along with some beautiful spring water that we can splash around a bit.

Tuesday 15 June 2010,

Hi everyone, it is now Tuesday evening and we are getting ready to head off tomorrow in the direction of Papeete in Tahiti. We had the last couple of days at an anchorage called Daniels Bay which is about 4 miles from the main port of Nuka Hiva. We headed up there on Sunday morning and had a couple of really nice days there. Our first job was to replenish our water supplies so we took the dinghy ashore with all of our water containers and spoke to a couple of local guys who lived on the beach. They had plenty of beautiful fresh spring water that they were only too happy to give us and would not take any cash for it but were very happy when we brought over a few beers for them. The beer was from our Panama supplies and the price we paid compared to the price you would have to pay here its no wonder the guys were happy chappies. We got our tanks full and then had a bit of a look around the anchorage and then around to another part of the bay where there is a beautiful lagoon. We had a wander around there and the surrounding village and were told about a water fall that was a couple of hours walk from the village.

We made arrangements to head to the water fall and had a really enjoyable trek up through the village, across the mountain streams and through the forrest to the waterfall. Whilst there was not much water coming over the incredible rock faces, it was truly an incredible place to be and as Nikki said, we guess there are not a whole lot of people in the world who get to visit it. We had a very nice little picnic by the fresh water pool at the base of the rock face and fed the resident huge eel and fresh water shrimps. On the treck back we picked up some fresh limes, mangos and chillis and a nice big coconut which have all found their way into our larder.

We left the anchorage this morning and came back to check out with the local Customs officials and give the boat a good check over, now finding a couple of problems with the rigging which we hope we have managed to secure and strengthen enough to get us to Tahiti. We plan on leaving tomorrow morning and maybe stop in the Tuomotos for a day or so or of the weather is good and the rig is ok, we will push through to Tahiti. All being well we will blog as we go.

We have enjoyed Nuka Hiva very much, have been able to refuel, get plenty of water, have some nice meals and rest, rest, rest. We have loved the fresh baguettes and our dinner one night of lamb chops, mashed spuds and honey carrots with a bottle of red and a big slab of brie for afters was fantastic.

I dont think anyone is looking forward to another 800 miles of handsteering but it has to be done to get us to Papeete to try and get things fixed. Just have to put head down and backside up and get it done. So will keep you posted as we go, till then...........................

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Comments

[Cherie Burgess]

Hi Guys, thankyou for transporting me to a wonderful part of the world. Al your words really make you feel like you are there... I could smell the bread.xxxx Cherie and Pete

[bazza]

Tropical Delights
what am i doing sitting at my desk in the cold of the Coffs winter? great to read more of the sunboy family adventures......sorry i missed your call sparksie..........all is good for us in coffs and i very much look forward to sharing your seafaring tales in a few months time......safe sailing and very best wishes from all at Coffs

[Fran]

Hi
Hi Everyone, Another interesting read but I was wondering do u guys ever argue?? Everyone just seems to get on so well, it's fantastic. I can see why you r so proud Alsy! I have just cme back from Bali and caught up with all my local friends which was lovely. Ha d a bad experience where an Aussie lady (who was staying at our hotel) and a 15yr old boy were in a motorbike V's truck acco about 20 metres up from our hotel. As u can imagine, it was horrific and I held her leg together. Her face was smashed but she was concious but had blood coming out of her ears and died 4 hours later. The boy was operated on and will survive with no lasting physical injuries but the mental scars from knowing her killed his friends mum will last forever!! It has shaken me, as the woman was Mum to 3 kids, 2 of which were in Bali with her and saw her like that. Back in my cop days i would not have lost a nights sleep but this has really stirred something up and have not had much sleep (like u guys!!) I go back to work on 6th - yuk! all still the same there. Study going well but currently doing Law, Govt and Politics and I hate politics. Full on stuff happening here with out first female PM. Don't think it will last for long but what do I know!!!! Love to u all, sail safe and I still want an answer to the argueing question!! LOL Fxxxxx