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Published: October 29th 2006
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Rugby Crazy
Watched the Suva team train for the big 'Fiji Cup' in town. Fijian's love their Rugby. Mainly fine, 30c
Chased by prostitutes, harassed by touts and barked at by wild packs of roaming dogs, welcome to paradise Suva style! You’d be forgiven for thinking you’re in Bombay or Calcutta, not only because of the presence of Indian Fijians but the environment - grotty streets, a harbour that’s a festering cesspool of filth and rat infested parks. Even the hardcore traveler’s bible Lonely Planet struggles for positives and advises “hide your money”, “beware of touts and sword sellers”, “always catch a taxi at night” and “don’t trust friendly strangers”. I’d be very hard pressed not to describe the majority of Suva as one big shit hole, and even then that’s a compliment.
Leaving Vanuatu I made yet more ni-Vanuatu friends, one of which was the head of ground services at the airport. He sat down chatting to me while I waited for check-in and tried to get me upgraded to business class (didn’t happen unfortunately, no availability.. but he did make sure I had an empty row and a big exit seat to myself!). It’s easy to see why Vanuatu has been named ‘the happiest country in the world’, rudeness is not saying hello to someone
Dirty Suva
That's the nice area of town. Damned if I'm taking pictures of hookers with my digital camera! in the street. That’s why Suva hit me like a smack in the face on a winter’s night. I need to go there to my long stay US Visa and that meant waiting around in town for 2 days without a passport.
I arrived at Nadi airport and drove a rental car through the highlands at 9pm (btw - hire a Yaris if you ever get the chance!! Only used $10 worth of fuel because it was electric / fuel powered). Three hours later I parked my car out the front of the hostel and was let in by the 2 security guards - they are everywhere in Fiji! I asked if my car would be safe, “it has an alarm?” was the response straight away. “Ahh no” I said and got reassuringly told “hmmm.. maybe it okay tonight.. but sometimes it not”. Not exactly a glowing response. I didn’t sleep that night and quickly rid myself of the massive liability at 8am. Only to encounter another ‘road block’ (if you watch the Amazing Race you’ll know what I mean), my challenge was to not go crazy at the US embassy. Went like this: line up with everyone out
Leaving Suva
Smiles all around.. even if it is a 4hr drive in a non-aircon bus! the front, wait till name called out, get cleared through security, wait for name to be called out, pay money, wait for name to be called out, have interview, told I needed more money. Get money and repeat steps all over again. Five hours later I left and was told to pick up the visa the next afternoon because “it might be ready”. This is not the image I had of Fiji in my head!!
I had learned to trust people in Vanuatu, but my first taste of hospitality in Fiji was a man welcoming to the country and following me around demanding money for “a gift” which apparently would cost me $20. I learnt fast. It was hard to adapt but I’m proud to say that within 1 day of arriving in Suva I had turned into a savvy and security smart traveler. I split up my cash, had a heightened sense of alert and rid myself of ‘ohh so laid back’ Vanuatu approach. My second night in Suva I was bargaining with taxi drivers, eating out at the markets at night and most of all I felt safe and secure. Getting eaten alive in Suva could easily
Not Bad Digs
At least the hostel was good in Suva. happen, but common sense and a cool head prevailed. Towards the end I actually kinda liked it. I had a local coffee shop where they knew my name and I was regularly exploring the city with the only other backpacker in the hostel. ‘Joe the German’, who had extensive experience traveling through Columbia and Peru. I learnt more tips and we conquered Suva daily.
After 3 days I got my US Visa and climbed aboard a local bus to join the well warn backpacker trail that I was yet to come across. Two hours up the road and I’m staying at The Beach House on the Coral Coast. If you ever watched a crap British TV show called ‘The Love Shack’ than I’m staying in Steve-O’s room. It was a lame rip off of Big Brother and featured loads of minor celebrities being filmed hanging out. Everything is still here except the cameras, it just re-opened last week after 5 months of shooting. There are tracks for the cameras, TV rooms around the house, one way mirrors etc.. If I knew the show I might be excited, but I’m not. It sure does look interesting though and it’s an
'The Love Shack'
Note the one way mirrored windows!
Just like the BB house on the Gold Coast but now a backpacker resort. unusual place to be staying at. Add the idyllic beach setting, pool, palm trees and a resort full of lasses and lads (did anyone say English backpackers?!?) and you’ve got The Beach House. Where friendly Fijian culture and a warm welcome abound - just make sure you pay upfront.
It has been relaxing though - lots of laying in hammocks, cheap ‘ales with the lads’ and snorkeling. Just a very different crowd here than I’ve been used too and loads more touristy than any country I’ve visited so far. I should have bitten my tongue for whinging about no backpackers in Vanuatu. I hope it stays that way!!!
As of tomorrow I’m off the beaten track again and headed to Samoa for 6 days before returning to Fiji. I’ve never spoken to anyone who’s gone there and not sure what to expect. Should be fun though and can’t be nearly as feral as Suva. I don’t have a guide book and have decided to go without for a change. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated if you’ve gone there!!!! Thanks for all the emails and comments so far. Feel free to send me chain emails or whatever anytime you like.
Fiji Water
Drink it or die - that was the message from the government. They accidently released raw sewrage into the town water supply - so there was no choice. Lucky I found out about that! You’d be surprised at how much downtime I have sometimes at airports or bus stations where I can access the net.
Almost 2 weeks in and not much. Still miss my beautiful girlfriend and I’m still tight with money. Hehe. Dad you’d be proud!! Found an activity that
or you’d like at The Beach House: basket weaving (I’m sure you’ll understand what I mean by that.. inside joke, apologies). As per another email I got here’s my assessment so far:
Favourite place: Vanuatu.. can’t stop raving about it!!! Marg - can we pretty please go on holidays there and be an annoying couple?? I’ll be a good I promise!
Least favourite: Suva, Fiji
Aussies met so far: 1.. that’s right.. 2 weeks and I’ve only met 1 Australian backpacker!!!
Most embarrassing moment: being told by Americans that “I’m not in Kansas anymore” constantly when arriving in Nadi. I thought they must have confused my accent and I always gave stupid replies or dumb looks. Wasn’t until I took off my t-shit and understood what they were on about (bought it at Cotton On - it’s an old print of a sports shirt that says ‘Kansas My View Typing This Blog
Ahhhh.. and most of you would have been at work right?!?
Haha State Buffalos’). Derrrr. Stupid aussie.
Most played song: Paris Hilton - Stars Are Blind. Seriously they love it in the South Pacific!! Paris is getting a lot of action down this way (ahem).
Best Beer: Number One, New Caledonia
Can u believe my blog has had over 300 hits so far?? I think it must be linked to a ViAgrA site or something. No one could be reading the crap I write!
Bula vinaka (Fijian for thanks and seeya later!). Till next time……
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Morbz
non-member comment
You're 300 hits on your site is prob my fault
Yeah I have no life!!! I've looked at your site probably about that many times...so don't feel too popular!!! You've absolutely inspired me to stay away from Suva and Fiji. Heard Samoa is not much better! You actually write quite well Mattykins. Maybe when you're done you should turn your blog into a book!