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Published: December 15th 2009
The day after we left New Zealand we crossed the International Date Line. Therefore we had two Fridays, December 4th twice! This caused all sorts of confusion on board especially with dinner reservations and spa appointments and parties. The Jewish passengers had consecutive Friday Sabbath services and many people expected to be arriving in Rarotonga when in fact we had another day at sea. It is interesting because when we are traveling from west to east we are losing hours on the clock but end up gaining a full day. So if you had a bad day on the first December 4th you have a chance to improve on it on the second December 4th. A few people on board celebrated their birthday twice. Because of this phenomenon Phileas Fogg was able to win his wager and complete his trip around the world in 80 days.
As we crossed the dateline we also arrived back in the tropics. The sea turned bluer, the sunsets became more dramatic and the temperatures warmed up. For the last two years on the world cruise Rarotonga has been listed as a stop on the schedule. However, due to high seas we have not been able
to take tenders ashore and so had to bypass this lovely outpost in the Cook Islands. This year we made! That is the good news. The bad news is that it was Sunday, so virtually everything was closed. But it really didn’t matter since the ocean is always open for exploring. We took a local shuttle bus halfway around the island to Muri Beach for some snorkeling and beachcombing. The water was a perfect temperature and it was just nice to be back on a tropical island away from cars and highrises and big city frenzy. The South Pacific is a wonderful contrast to urbanized Asia.
We have some excellent guest speakers on board discussing varied topics such as the Mediterranean diet, globalization along with wine and cooking demos, geography and oceanographic lectures, arts and crafts classes, bridge and sporting tournaments. The last segment of this cruise is filled with sea days, so it is important for the cruise line to offer some interesting diversions for the passengers. We love the sea days especially in warm weather. There are a large number of tennis players on board now so the competition is pretty fierce.
James Michener described Bora Bora as
Ron & Nola
"Big" Birthday Bash for Nolathe most beautiful island in the world. It certainly ranks right up there with the best. It is one place that really does need to be seen to truly appreciate its exquisiteness. There are differing theories as to what forces of nature caused a coral reef to surround a stunning lagoon and soaring rain-forest covered peaks and end up with a perfect tropical isle. Some say it was a volcanic eruption but Polynesian legend has it that the God Ta’aroa created this ultimate South Seas paradise with one sweep of his hand. The real name of this place is Pora Pora since there is no “B” in the Tahitian language. But I don’t think the local visitor’s bureau would consider changing the name now.
We entered Pofai Bay through Teavanui Pass---a narrow opening in the fringing reef---past some of the famous resorts with their pricey overwater thatched roof bungalows and dropped anchor. We spent the day swimming in the shallow, warm waters of the blue blue blue lagoon with a large pack of sting rays. These were big guys along with a few pregnant gals. They eat by suction, so men have to be a little careful as the rays
get up close and personal. In spite of Steve Irwin’s unfortunate encounter with a ray, these are quite gentle and feel like velvet when they brush up against you. Our guide, a Bloody Mary look-alike, told us that in 30 years of swimming with the rays, she has never had a problem. We next went to an underwater coral garden and enjoyed seeing the colorful fish, clams and corals.
Bora Bora and Moorea have a friendly competition over which is the most gorgeous island. We love them both. Moorea is home to the famous peak of Mouaroa which is better known as “Bali Hai.” It was explained by a local that actually Bora Bora has the most beautiful lagoon in the world while Moorea is truly the prettiest island. Whatever—they are both heavenly. We spent the day at the Intercontinental Resort where there is a dolphin center. This center has four rescued dolphins and it is possible to swim with them. Bottlenose dolphins are huge mammals that interact well with humans and often leap 10-15’ into the air to show off their tremendous strength. I love hearing their delightful squeals and could watch them for hours.
Under a clear Tahitian
sky the ship had an outdoor Polynesian feast on deck. Les Gauguines singers and dancers were joined by a troupe of forty Tahitian musicians and performers who put on a great post dinner show. We dined with Hank and Sandra and celebrated Sandra’s birthday with half of the crew who stopped by to offer their best wishes.
On our last day in Moorea we joined up with Dr Michael Poole, an American who has spent the last 20 years in Polynesia studying dolphins and whales. He is married to a Tahitian woman and loves living in this part of the world. We have a mutual friend in Laura Brands, a naturalist whom we met on board the Mariner three years ago. Dr Poole and I are both UC Santa Cruz alumni so we exchanged the secret “banana slug” handshake. We cruised half way around the island both inside and outside of the coral reef in search of spinner dolphins but alas there was not a one to be seen. So instead he took us to his favorite swimming spot where we mingled with black tip sharks and sting rays and colorful butterfly fish. There were about half a dozen sharks
Sandra and Gary
Happy Birthday! ranging in size from 4-6 feet who circled around us while the sting rays cuddled up to us swimmers. I was a bit reluctant to enter the water as I first saw the sharks but when our Tahitian boat captain went in I figured it was worth a try. Some of the passengers on the boat started humming the theme from “Jaws.” Very funny! It was actually quite a nice experience.
After a short stay in Papeete we headed up to the Marquesas Islands where we made our last port call at Nuku Hiva. This is the land of Paul Gauguin and Thor Heyerdahl. We had been reading in Latitude 38, a sailing magazine, about an American who lives in Nuku Hiva and is somewhat of a legend in this part of the world. We decided to look her up. In this tiny village everyone knows everyone so we were able to find her residence. She welcomed us into her home and told us about her life in the islands. She and her husband came to the Marquesas in 1972 to do research. They ended up building a hotel on the hillside and wrote books about the islands and started
the only museum on Nuku Hiva. Mr Corser has since passed away but Rose has begun an ambitious hotel and restaurant building project. She spoke of the challenges of working and living on such a remote speck of land in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. But she absolutely loves the islands and the Polynesian people and plans to spend the rest of her life here. Rose gave us her beautifully illustrated book about Marquesan seed jewelry, dance costumes and floral adornment. We were so pleased we got a chance to meet this very interesting woman.
Now it is a seven day sail across the Pacific Ocean to Los Angeles where we will arrive home just prior to Christmas. Since we will be leaving again on Jan 13th we will have a very short time to unpack, repack, see family and friends, celebrate the holidays, check in with our doctors and dentists, pay some bills and then be on our way for the 119 day Regent Voyager 2010 World Cruise. This will be our 10th consecutive circumnavigation of the globe and we are eagerly looking forward to this voyage.
As a final update on our rescued sailor, Bernt is still
in New Zealand repairing his boat as there was more extensive damage than he realized at first. He hopes to get back on the high seas by Christmas. Staff Captain Alain, the officer who got Bernt off his sailboat, told us that before he boarded the rescue boat he put a drawing made by his daughter in the pocket next to his heart as a good luck charm. It worked!
This Grand Asia Pacific cruise has been just superb. We went to some of our favorite places around the Ring of Fire, met some new friends and visited old friends and had some interesting encounters and adventures along the way. We stayed healthy and happy, dodged some dicey weather and thoroughly enjoyed the 102 days cruising the globe. The Regent Mariner is a great ship that carried us around the Pacific Ocean in fine style-- safely and comfortably. Her staff and crew are top notch and the food, service and entertainment is of the highest quality. The constant movement, the anticipation of what each port will bring and traveling in the wake of some famous explorers all combined to make for one fantastic trip. We are a very lucky couple!
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john Dolven
non-member comment
trip
I looks like you guys made it in wonderful fashion and now in another month you are off again. Do you ever gain any weight? See you in SD. Cheers