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Published: April 8th 2024
Big Brook Dam
11A great place to stop and have a break on my first day back on the BibbSo in late February 2024, I headed back to Perth, to complete the last 450kms of my Bibbulmun Track adventure. Most people say it is too early to start out on the track and with news outlets showing quite a few bush fires in West Australia, I was a bit concerned. However, I was committed to the trip and decided to go with it and see what transpired.
I had decided to go as light as possible and therefore took my Deuter 32 litre backpack rather than the 75 litre backpack I had taken previously, which I felt was too big and heavy. So on the 28th February, I caught the TransWA bus down to Pemberton ready to head off the next day to complete the trek. As previously commented, I had to backfill sections that I had missed, so my first hike, was to go North, from Pemberton to Donnelly River Village.
Pemberton to Beedelup - Setting off early, it was great to be back out walking the track again. The track was good and after about 9kms, I came to the Big Brook Dam, which was lovely. I took a break at the Dam, but headed off
as the sun was shining, my pack, felt so much better, towards my first night back on the track at Beedelup. There was a lot of debris on the track, trees both big and small down and I had my first encounter with the wildlife, a large kangaroo, who had a good look at me and must have been thinking, " What is he doing out here now !" So first day completed with a solid 27.39kms completed.
Beedelup to Beavis - After not such a good nights sleep, bloody mosquitoes, I headed off to Beavis. After a few kms, I came to Beedelup Falls. To be honest, there was not alot of water flowing over them, as there hasn't been much rain lately. Later, I met a Wildlife Ranger on the track and was concerned having just passed a parked Fire Truck. He said that there were no fires in the area. So I headed on and when I got to Beavis Hut, met two Wildlife workers, who were clearing the hut gutters and doing a general tidy up. They said that they had two others out on the track in an ATV clearing the track of debris.
When they came back, they confirmed that there was alot of debris down, some too big for them to move. So after an 18.88kms hike, I again had a poor nights sleep with the mozzies keeping me company all night long.
Beavis to Boarding House - The track was again good, but lots of debris. Some fungi had taken advantage of the debris and had grown on the fallen trees. It was clear that when it rains here, there will be lots of rain. I had a great experience with the wildlife. Whilst I was walking, I had picked up some bird feathers. Suddenly a bird flew from behind me and settled on a tree branch right in front of me. It turned to look at me. It was an owl and it just sat and observed me. I stopped and taking out my phone, took a photo. It sat for a good couple of minutes, before flying off. A lovely moment.
Another good 21.28kms hike, and after the experience of the last two nights, I decided to put up my tent inside the hut. Great idea and one I would follow for all other nights in huts.
My first contact with the wildlife.
Must have thought what are you doing out here ? Boarding House to Tom Road - A solid 25.63 kms hike, with lots of bridges and again examples of when it rains here, it sure does rain. Also, came across the half way marker post, which I had seen many times in other peoples pictures. Felt good to be there, but I had the benefit of not having 501kms to go. About 2kms before the Donnelly River suspension bridge, I came across a real problem. Part of the track had collapsed. There was tape around it and I tried to go around, but could not. I was however able to get through, but this was not good and could be a real problem. When I got to the suspension bridge, I met a Wildlife ranger and after explaining to him, he said they were aware of the problem and were planning to get some large equipment in to fix it.
I stopped at the Donnelly River suspension bridge for a break and refilled my water bottle as they are facilities there. After waiting out the passing rain showers, I headed off again and had my second wildlife encounter, this one much closer with a snake on the track.
I had jumped up onto a fallen tree on the track and when I looked down, there was an about 4 foot, I think Dugite snake, looking back at me !! I got my phone out, took a picture and he then slithered off under the log. I waited for a few munites, then jumped down and went on my way.
Tom Road to Donnelly River - I started off early for the relatively short 17.67kms hike as I wanted to get to the Donnelly River General store for one of their great burgers, a shower, laundry and a relaxing afternoon, before heading back to Pemberton the next day. The track again had lots of trees down but I made good time and got to the General store about 11am. I decided to phone Rob, who operates a track transfer company and he said he could be there at about midday and get me to Pemberton in about another hour. Sounded great, so after a hot shower, a coffee and toastie, I was off to Pemberton. Back in Pemberton, I found out it was a Public Holiday and accomodation was at a premium, so back to the Pemberton Hotel,
and doing my washing in the laundry in the main street.
In the 5 days I had been on the track, I had not met another hiker, nor shared a hut with anyone. This was to become the norm until I got closer to Albany. I had completed 108.49kms and my only south to north section. The next section was from Pemberton to Northcliffe, so I resupplied in Pemberton, for a short three day hike. I was now on way south and to Albany !
Pemberton to Warren - So I headed off early and with only 3 days of food on board, my pack was light. After a short while, I arrived at the Gloucester Tree which is a 61 metre tall Karri tree and you used to be able to climb up on rods. The tree is a major tourist attraction in Pemberton, however it was closed, as I understand they are looking at ways to make it safer.
So I headed off and got onto the track proper, whilst being very warm, the track had been worked on and a lot of debris cleared. It seems to me, that the Wildlife crew had worked
on the track with some machinery as there were piles of debris pushed to the side of the track.
With the track being so clear, the 20.85kms to Warren Hut only took 4 and three quarters, so I arrived there at about 11.30am.
Warren to Schafer - So at about 12.45pm and still very hot, bouyed by the great track condition, I decided to kick on to Schafer Hut, an additional 21.24kms. Unfortunately, the crew must have stopped at Warren Hut as the track to Schafer Hut had not been cleared, slowing me down. I arrived just before 6pm, but I would have to say, Schafer Hut would get my vote as the most picturesque hut, with the view from the Hut looking out acros the lake as lovely.
So my day had been a 42.09km day. My longest day on the track, but a really good one.
Schafer to Northcliffe - Having put in a big day the previous day, the 14.64kms hike to Northcliffe was certainly a short one, which when I arrived gave me the opportunity to relax and do chores. Arriving at Northcliffe I went to the Visitor Centre to find accomodation
and got organised at the Naughty Noodle where Penny makes great coffee and cooked breakfasts. I also picked up from the Northcliffe post office, a parcel I had sent from home, with food and other goodies in it. This was great as in some track towns, food items can be expensive. I also took the opportunity, to post back a parcel of things which I did not need.
Northcliffe to Gardner - The Northcliffe to Walpole section, was to be my longest section out on the track, a distance of about 142kms, with no opportunity to resupply. I again set off early and made good time, arriving at Gardner Hut at about 11.00am. I made the decision to kick on and double hut to Lake Maringup.
Gardner to Maringup - After having lunch, I set off at about 12.30pm and had with a good pace, arrived at Lake Maringup Hut at about 4.00pm. I had completed 31.53kms, a good day.
Maringup to Dog Pool - This was to be a longish day of 25.65kms and the section of the track which I believe floods in winter. There were parts with some planks on it, which looked like
the area under and around could be very damp. Arrived at Dog Pool at about 4.00pm and this was another non wooden construction hut. The pool at the front of the hut was not very high and from notes in the Hut book, could see how this would be a good place to have a swim, cool off and clean up if the track was flooded.
Dog Pool to Mt Chance - Not a tough day, although starting to get a bit more sand to walk on. Was walking when I noticed someone had put a small figure on a post. Well I think it was a figure, reminded me of a larger concrete figure on the Portugese Camino. The landscape was also starting to change and I walked through parts with no trees. Having walked through forests for days, really noticed it.
Mt Chance to Woolbales - Made good time, inspite of having a couple of meetings with snakes, who did not bother me and made speedy retreats. I did however have another road block, when I came around a corner and was met by a rather large kangaroo, who was having a rest and sun bathe
on the track. He just put his head up, watched me for a while and after letting me take his photo, hopped off ! Quite a fun experience.
Woolbales to Long Point - My first sight of the Ocean and first beach walk. The track also became more sandy, views were great and the landscape changed again. The funny thing, was that the hut, was along way off the track, from memory about a half kilometre walk. When I approached the turn off to the hut, I had heard a vehicle go by. When I reached the hut, the hut platforms and furniture had been re varnised and new tent pads made. Very nice, well it all looked good.
Long Point to Mt Clare - I decided to again double hut as being close to Walpole I wanted to get there and take a days rest. The track was good, sandy, but I was making good time. That is until I hit Mt Clare ! Well it is called a Mount. The last part of the hike, was certainly tough, hiking up to the hut. When I got there, I met the Wildlife guys, who I had missed
at Long Point the day before. They were doing the same, varnishing the platforms and furniture and installing new tent pads. I had lunch and as planned headed off to Walpole.
Mt Clare to Walpole - The Wildlife guys told me it was about 10kms into Walpole and all downhill. Well they got the distance about right, but there was still some up hill. I saw Tingle trees, which I had not heard off before. Arrived into Walpole and went to the Visitor centre for some accomodation. Ended up booking for two nights at the Tree Top Walk Motel, as accomodation was limited. Decided to reward myself with a large meal at the Philipines Magic Cafe. Ordered a burger, which was huge and must admit, I couldn't eat it all ! Gave myself a days rest, after 6 days out on the track, still not seen any hikers or shared a hut, decided to rest, re supply, shower and laundry.
Peaceful Bay to Boat Harbour - As I had already done the Walpole to Peaceful Bay section, (Part 1), I was able to get Lee from Naturally Walpole Track and Trail Transfers, to take me to Peaceful Bay
My friendly Owl encounter
A great experience, it just sat and looked at me, perhaps another "what are you doing out on the track this early ?" to start back on the track. My main worry, was that when I got to the river crossing, all the canoes would be on the other side. But when I got to the crossing, 3 canoes were there and luckiliy, one was on the ground, as I don't think I could have lifted it down. I cant remember the last time, if ever, I had paddled a canoe, so I put my backpack in the front of the canoe, put the lifejacket on and headed off. At first, I seemed to be heading the wrong way into the inlet, but after making adjustments to my rowing style, managed good headway and made the crossing.
After making the crossing and putting the canoe in the boat shed as best I could, I started off and the track was now quite sandy. The views along the shoreline, were however spectacular and I again enjoyed walking on both Middle and Big Quarram beaches.I arrived at Boat Harbour Hut after a 20.51kms hike at about 3pm in the afternoon. The sandy track was slowing me down, but on the beach, I was setting a good pace.
The Widlife team had been to
this Hut as well and created new tent sites. I heard a noise outside of the hut and went out to investigate. Standing on one of the new tent sites was a rather large grey kangaroo. He stood for a while, let me take his photo and hopped off, leaving his mark on the slab !
Boat Harbour to William Bay - After leaving Boat Harbour, the track was again very sandy and I made slow progress, although the views were spectacular. I arrived at the Parry Beach Campground, which was full of caravans. As I headed down to the beach, the lady at the Campground Office called out to me. I had hoped there was a cafe there, and when I told her that, she said no worries, I will make you a coffee. Great, so I sat with my coffee and looked out over my next challenge, the 7.5kms beach walk along Parry and Mazzoletti beaches. I was advised that the Parry Inlet was closed and was easy to walk over, so I headed off for the long beach walk. And I loved it ! The sand was quite firm, the beach flat and I made great
Black Dugite snake I think
Jumped up onto a fallen tree which was across the track and looking back at me was this 4 foot snake. time. The wind in my fast was quite punishing, but once I got into a nice rythmn, it was lovely. When I arrived at the William Bay Hut, there was someone there, another hiker !! He was going South to North and setting a cracking pace. Double and Triple hutting, his goal was to complete the Bibbulmun in 28 days ! He left and later that afternoon another hiker arrived ! This guy, however was not doing the Bibbulmun but just day hiking, but he was going to over night in the hut ! I had had 14 nights on my own in huts, I had enjoyed the solitude and came to call this my "Journey of Solitude" It reminded me of a quote, called I think "Solitude is Strenght" by Paul Brunton, which reads "To depend on the presence of the crowd is weakness. The man who needs a mob to nerve him is much more alone then he imagines."
William Bay to Denmark - So after bidding my first hut buddy farewell, I headed off to my last track town, Denmark. This proved to be a longer day than I thought. After a short beach walk, the
Mt Chance to Woolbales
After coming around a corner, was met by a rather large kangaroo, who was taking a nap and sun bathing. He put his head up, allowed me to take his photo, then hopped off, allowing me to continue. track headed inland and towards Mount Hallowell. This was quite a tough climb and in one part had a rail to help you up. Due also to the rocks, the track was slow and you had to watch you step. Taking a tumble here would have been quite nasty. Anyway, I made it up and over Mt Hallowell and thought I would soon be in Denmark. Not so, the mileage reads 20kms, to Denmark Trail Head on Ocean Beach Road. When I got to what I now know is the Trailhead, I was confused. The markers were to take a right, but Denmark was to the left. I needed to re supply and so headed North on Ocean Beach road to Denmark. This was a 6 kms hike into town along the road, which was unexpected. I made it into town and went to the Visitor Centre. I arranged accomodation, did laundry, showered and had a meal. My last track town before Albany, a great feeling.
Denmark - Nullaki - Well it says its a 14.2km hike, but that is from the Trail Head. So I had to walk back down Ocean Beach Road, past the Bibbulmun Trail Head
and then on to the Ocean Beach lookout to cross the Wilson Inlet. This was about 9kms, but along good footpaths, so was an easy walk. When I arrived at the entrance to Wilson Inlet, it was closed and lots of people were on it, having fun, swimming, sunbathing and playing beach games. I headed on, but had trouble finding where the track re started on the other side. After a little bit of bush bashing, I found the Bibbulmun markers again.
The next few kilometres, were in my opinion, the most beautiful and tranquil part of my whole track experience. The track went into a private property and to my left was the Inlet. The track was nice and wide, mostly shaded and with a good breeze off the water, ideal hiking. Also, there were Black Swans, Pelicans and other sea birds just going about their business on the Inlet, making it even more special. I stopped numerous times to take in the view and take photos. Once however, whilst taking a photo, I noticed something move beside me. I must have upset a Tiger Snake as he seemed quite keen to come towards me. I took his
photo and started to move off, it had proved its point and moved off into the undergrowth.
The track eventually made a right turn onto Rock Cliff Circuit and went past a Lime mine, which had a large wire fence. I eventully arrived at Nullaki Hut after a 26.36kms day. A lot longer than anticipated, but well worth it.
Nullaki to West Cape Howe - The track was fine, sandy but OK. I had started to meet some people on the track who had started their E2E from Albany. One lady I met said she was on a day walk, but that I should watch out for the legless lizard at West Cape Howe hut, who lived by the water tank and also a Tiger Snake who apparently was called "Cuddles" who also lived close by. Well when I go to the hut, I found the legless lizard, but he was dead, petrified on a log close to the tank and luckily didn't see Cuddles.
But I did have company at this hut. My first hut share with hikers who were on the Bibbulmum track ! A couple arrived who had started at Albany. Was good to
The Gloucester Tree
The tree was closed, as I understand they are looking at making it safer chat and share experiences from other hikes we had both done.
West Cape Howe to Torbay - Lots of steps and I was pleased I was going South, not having to go up all those steps. And did I have company in the hut ? Well yes sort of. Was sitting relaxing, when out of the corner of my eye I saw movement. Was it a rat ? no it was a Quoakka ! I had never seen one before. It sort of hopped and ran and didn't seem nervous at all. Perhaps later in the year with more hikers using the hut, he would not be sort adventurous. I arrived at the hut about 1.00pm and decided not to go on, but savour the peace of the hut and the Bibbulmun.
Torbay to Sandpatch - I had decided to double hut today, so I would lunch at Muttonbird Hut, then keep going onto Sandpatch, for my last night on the track. However, with only two days left on the track, my trusty Garmin Fenix 5x, which had been with me all the way and also on many other hikes, decided that it would not take a charge.
Pemberton to Warren Hut
The track had clearly been cleared off debris and ws a pleasure to walk on. So for the last two days, I could not record the times or mileage, a real dissapointment.
So I headed out and made it across Torbay Inlet with no problem. Again, back beach walking which I had grown to really like. I had also met two hikers who were heading north on the Bibbulmun track. They had told me about a group of ladies who were on the track and that I would likely meet at Sandpatch.
After having lunch at Muttonbird hut, the track had lots of wind turbines lining it and alot of boardwalks, which made it easy walking.
Arriving at Sandpatch hut, I met the Naughty Nannies group. 9 ladies who had come on the track at Lowlands and were heading to Albany. They were spread out in the hut and I decided to sleep in my tent, putting it up behind the hut which was a smart move. The hut was very windswept but my little tent was sheltered. So after all those nights in the hut on my own, I had spent my last night on the track with 9 ladies and 1 gentlemen, who had arrived late in the afternoon.
Schafer Hut
The view from Schafer Hut at dawn was beautiful. Sandpatch to Albany - So I bade the ladies farewell and headed off for the relatively short 12.5km hike into Albany. The track was fine and came out onto a road which went around a large bay into Albany. Walking on this and through some suburban streets into Albany was a bit of an anti climax after all the miles walking through the bush and on deserted beaches. But it was what it was and I had a good pace as well. I arrived at The Albany Visitor Centre which for me was quite an emotional feeling. After all the issues I had had and having to make three trips to West Australia, it was a great feeling to have achieved my goal of completing the Bibbulmun Track. Having entered the Visitor Centre, I booked some accomodation and found out where the TransWa office was to book my bus trip back to Perth the next day. I explained to them what I had done, signed the Trail book and they got me to ring their bell and took my picture. I said I would not post pictures of myself, but I have included this picture of me ringing the bell,
sorry.
So this journey has come to an end and I am proud of myself for completeing it. It has been a great experience and the last three weeks has certainly been my Journey of Solitude, going for days on the track without meeting anyone and only sharing huts on 3 occassions out of 21 huts visited.
And a word of thanks to my trusty Keen Arroyo II sandals. They were great, so comfortable and hard wearing. Also, must give a word to the Far Out GPS APP, which got me back on track when I didn't see a marker. Great stuff.
My one word of advice to anyone doing this trek, when packing, be very strict on what you really need to carry against wht you think you might need to carry. Also those extra kgs can make a big difference.
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