Ceduna to Norseman, Part One

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We have stoped a couple of times previously in Ceduna. This is a town where there is a real cultural mix and a happy hunting ground for lovers of Aboriginal Art. There are some very talented artists here, and every time we come, we just love viewing their latest works. The best of the best are outside our budget, but are wonderfully crafted, often blending aboriginal traditional techniques within modern art styles. Almost always these works tell a story. One we admired was a traditional styled 'Bush Fire'. The patterns and styling were fantastic.

Ceduna is also a grain export port, and the dock was busy during our stay. The plains from the top of the Eyre Peninsular to Ceduna and west are very productive with a mix of grains, canola and sheep stations. The farmers in this region had already ploughed and sown their next crop, and with God's blessing of a little rain, we bright green and growing well. We both commented on this and could not remember this area, particularly west of Ceduna being so good last time we were through. (2011)

When we planned this trip we thought that from Victoria's western region and onwards we would have cold weather. We were only partly right. In Ceduna and across onto the Nullarbor Plains, we have had temps in the high 20s to early 30s each day. Seems summer doesn't want to end yet.

We dropped into Head Of Bight information centre in the hope that some of the southern wright whales we be in their nursery area. They generally arrive from the Antarctic waters in early May. There were reports of early whale sightings on the southern Victorian coasts as we travelled west, so we hoped that we would be in luck. Sadly not! Each year the southern wright whales come to this bay to give birth to their young, up to 60 births per year. We saw mothers and calves in 2011 on one of the coldest days I can ever remember. Today the score was Whales 0, Annoying Flies 1,000,000,000. But at least we could have a good look at the cliffs and take some pictures without being snap frozen. We did buy fly hats to make life tolerable.

A little further west we went to a new cliff top observation area. The sea was calm, so unlike other visits, no crashing rollers. The Nullarbor and the adjoining area (probably include York and Ayer Peninsulas) are a thick limestone slab pushed up from the sea bed. The resulting structure is very crumbly, and many a large chunk just drops off into the sea.



One we reached the Nullarbor Roadhouse, we thought we would check the diesel price. $1.41/litre when we left Ceduna, $1.92 at in the middle of nothingness. We decided we had enough to progress two more towns, so departed without buying. There was a lot of tooting of horns and flashing of lights. A fellow traveller spotted that the rear door of the trailer was swinging open. This was a shock as I meticulously lock and shake the doors every time before we travel. A grub screw that holds the locking lever had come loose; the locking lever dropped off onto the floor, and the door did swing. Luckily we lost nothing and were able to make the repair. I have since added a fail safe device to make sure that even if the grub screw came loose, the locking lever can not fall off.

While Australia is one country, there are quarantine regulations between States, and in a couple of places, within a State to prevent spread of insects and disease between growing regions. One such check point is the SA and WA border at Border Village (close to Eucla). Marg had researched what was acceptable or not, so we were clean when the inspector went through the fridge and cupboards. We told him that we had some SA flies that wanted to go to Perth and asked if that was a problem. He advised that hitchhiking flies are welcome! Maybe to him, but not us!

There are only a couple of places across the Nullarbor where mobile phones and internet work. Border village is one, so we both caught up with family and friends.

We continued west to Mundrabilla, filled up the truck again and went 10ks further to a free bush camp at Jilah Rock Hole for the night. It is quite important to plan this section of travel well as fuel stops are up to 250ks apart, and recovery of vehicles costly. One traveller learned this this morning or maybe last evening. His caravan had been crunched on the right rear corner leaving it an awful mess and his stuff scattered around.

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Photos

More jet streams
Ceduna is a key east/west navigation point.

The Nullarbor Road
Noted for the long gently undulating straight roads.

Maaa
Lots of twin lambs.

Nullarbor Plain
Only a part of the journey is through the treeless plain. This is it.

Border Village
A long way to everywhere!

Comments

[Mum & Dad]

Great sunsets and rises.
The flies you can keep a wonder they did not get up your nose or in your ears!! Anyway another set of interesting photos especially the Sunrise at Ceduna. Well done.

[Brian]

Part one twice
Hi Rob Just received another of your very interesting posts with all its great photos I see that it was Part One I actually received it twice and was wondering if perhaps the second one should have been part two. Sure wish we were travelling with you. Best Regards Brian