Kununurra - Oasis in a dry land

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Three days here at Kununurra has been a joyful lesson about the last town before crossing the border into the Northern Territory.

We have driven through dry and dusty places to get to Kununurra, then this bright green district startles as the transition from arid to lush irrigation is quite abrupt. Despite lack of rain, this district along the Ord River (fed from Lake Argyle) is full of life in every respect.

Yes, it is a little town with a mix of races. The local aboriginal people live in the town rather than in a remote community like Warmun. You will find them sitting by day under the large shade trees. I was amazed at one great grandma that we talked to (28 great grand kids) was easily able to just squat on the grass, legs folded. I would struggle, preferring a recliner rocker, or maybe a hammock under the same tree.

Interestingly she asked for help. Her youngest grandson had a flat tyre on his bike and couldn't get it to pump up. So, a few minutes later, tube properly aligned, the tyre was pumped up and he was so delighted. Great Grandma chatted for a while and we learned that she lived here but was from Darwin. Not of the Gija people, but she knew some of their folk and had been to Warmun. After exchanging names and some more chit chat we moved on to get some shopping done.

We are staying at a camping ground on the edge of Lake Kununurra, and were told that fresh water crocs could be seen of the evening along the banks of the lake by the park. The banks are vertical, and it seems that freshies don't climb the meter up. But they are close enough to smile at! I took photos of one known as Jaws - he has lost a small part of the lower jaw, probably in a tussle as a smaller croc, but is surviving rather well without the expense of an orthodontist. The theory is that the dam on the Ord River just out of Kununurra stops the salty crocs from coming into the lake. HMMM - I have heard that a mid sized salty was recently seen this side of the dam. Anyway, the locals are all out there water skiing, fishing and swimming anyway.

There are plenty of big fat fish in the lake. Unfortunately, cat fish are probably the most common fish seen. There are barramundi as well, but the population is still growing in this lake and the upper Ord River.

Kununurra is famous along with the Lake Argyle area, for zebra rock. This peculiar rock is striped in straight and regular stripes, and as far as we know, is found no where else in the world. There are several outlets producing a variety of jewellery and novelties, so there is plenty of shopping opportunities for those in need of some therapy. One of the artisans had a small range at the Saturday Markets, and we chose an interesting piece. The image is quarantined, so you will have to wait until we get home to satisfy your curiosity.

We visited another artisan on the edge of Lake Kununurra, but settled for a mango smoothie and exceptionally yummy mango cheese cake. This shop is on the edge of a mango plantation and has some very healthy peacocks running around. Spring is in the air - for proof look at the peacock photos.

Naturally, you have a kelpie on the block too. He followed us down to the jetty where some children were feeding a solid pack of catfish some bread. There were some archer fish there too. I hadn't seen an archer fish, but knew of their reputation - they are known as spitting fish. They watch for a bug to come close over the water, come nearly to the surface, and spit a copious amount of water at the bug, sink it and then eat it. The archer fish was also spitting at the girls hand when she held bread out. She obliged and dropped the crumbs just in front of the archer.

Oh yes, that kelpie. He got into the water and swam under the jetty. Once the kids started feeding the fat cat fish, he would leap out and chase them. They were too quick, but also stupid enough to come straight back for several more rounds of ambushing.

I mentioned a couple of blogs back that I would have liked to go into the Bungle Bungles and take a close up look. Well, I got that chance here on a self drive full tar sealed road into the Mini Bungle Bungles just on the edge of Kununurra. So, if you want a look but don't want to stress your car or travelling partner, the Hidden Valley is the place for you. Like the Bungles, it is HOT in the mid day sun, dry at the moment, and like the Bungles, trees and grasses grow in the weirdest ways. Many of the trees in the park are labelled and give the aboriginal use for the fruit etc. It was well worth the couple of hours to explore the three walks.

It is not just the peacocks that think spring is in the air. We had a herd, flock, squadron, not sure which term to use, of dragon flies hanging around the back of the motorhome. They would circle but not settle - just kept flying through the area. The challenge was to get a photo, in focus of a flying bug. I found 36 unsuccessful ways, but pulled in a beaut. Tell me what you think. I have included a not so good pic (last one on blog) to get the colour markings on the top of the dragon fly.

There are lots of other places to visit here, one of which is the Sandalwood Factory a few ks out of town. There is a huge plantation of sandalwood here making use of the tropical heat and Ord River water, and produces top class wood, oil etc. The way sandalwood is grown here is fascinating - the tree is a parasite, feeding off a shrub and two other host trees, eventually killing the hosts. It does this by attaching its roots to the roots of the hosts, and eventually starving the hosts from the roots up. The heart wood is exceptionally rich in oil. The tree is chipped and fermented to extract the high grade oil. This is sort after at big $$$ by major perfumeries around the world. Some also finds its way into some medicinal products as well. The chips are then re-fermented and a second grade oil is extracted which is worth $$. The left over chips are then shipped to China and are made into incense sticks. An interesting place to spend an hour, or if you visit their coffee shop, add another hour. There are samplers there of a range of products made from sandalwood. Marg and I chased a couple of moths out of my wallet and bought a bottle of perfume - Larrikin. It has been reported by some victims that my humour has deteriorated since applying same to my neck.

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Photos

Elephant Rock
Lake Kununurra

Evening glow
Lake Kununurra

fuzzy, but gives colour
enlarge to find the dragon fly.

Comments

[Jakii H]

ord
glad you didn't go swimming! just love the photos

[Peg]

A kelpie is a dog - right? Your dragonfly pic is superb, well done. The Bungles sound fascinating - love the name. Your close up of a croc's eye reminds me of some LOTR shots etc.

[MargAndRob]

Kelpie
Is a dog with round up instinct, so is used here on farms. Smaller than most cattle dog breeds.