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Tuesday 27th April Banka Banka to Daley Waters
Left Banka Banka at 9am. Refuel at Elliott and looked for somewhere to repair the tyre. The tyre was too damaged with the inner tube having melted creating balls of rubber and the wall of the tyre bulging. So bought a new tyre.
Stopped for the night at Daley Waters Inn. The pub (was the original farmhouse), is very well known for it’s ‘steak & barra’ special. When you arrive you book into the campground via the pub and you are asked if you would like their special for dinner. We opted for the barra without the steak, now also on their specials board. You are asked to select a time for dinner 6.30, 7 or 7.30pm, you then turn up at that time and your name is called for dinner, very nice too, in an outdoor courtyard with entertainment every night. We had a lady, playing saxophone. She played for 2 1/2 hours without a break. It was a nice relaxing break for us though after some fairly long drives.
Met up with Jeanette, the queen of the barra meal relaxing before starting the hot work of meal preparation.
The pub itself is quite a feature with collections on every available surface. To be seen to be believed. Some of the collections seemed to go back to the early 1900’s. From notes and coins from all over the world to underwear, caps, photos, horses harness equipment too many to name but some very interesting.
Apart from the pub the camp ground, an old building across the road, not open, but seemed to also have a collection of odds and ends, a couple of houses including Jeanette’s there isn’t much else in the town.
A lady pulled in with a kite (bird) caught in the grill of her car and she didn’t know what to do. Lyle pulled it out. The poor thing was still alive but in complete shock. Nothing could be done for it.
There was lots of preparation for a rodeo to be held next weekend.
Wednesday 28th April Daley Waters to Katherine
Left Daley Waters stopping at the airfield on the way.
Daly Waters became the distribution point for mail services between the Top End and the remainder of Australia.
It became an international airport when aircraft could
not travel long distances without refueling. The lady of the house served meals to the passengers, often to the prominent people of the day. When the creek was in flood the meals would be cooked in the farmhouse and transported across the swollen waters originally on 2 ropes strung across the creek, where you sidled along with your feet on the bottom rope and a hand on the top one, later a flying fox was built and is still operable today. The meals were sometimes 3 courses, which had to be served in the 45 minutes to an hour that the plane was stopped for refueling.
The husband cleaned the aircraft and refueled it during the meal time. Sometimes there were 3 planes coming in one after the other, always on time!
Later the airfield was used in WWII.
Headed next to Mataranka and the hot springs. This is a huge area and has a replica of the home used by Mrs Aeneas Gunn of ‘We of the Never Never’ fame. This was built for use in a movie made on the story.
Didn’t go for a swim as it was a hot day and the last thing we thought
we wanted. The water was very clean and looked inviting otherwise. Quite a large section has been concreted and looks a bit like a swimming pool.
A quick lunch in the cool shade of Mataranka town park to sustain us for the run to Katherine.
Decided to stay at a motel, The Paraway, so I would have power for the laptop and also for security reasons. Even the vehicles had security gates and fences.
Lyle took the wheel to be rebalanced as it wasn’t driving as smoothly as we would like.
Had dinner at the motel restaurant which specialized in hot rocks, where you cook the meat or fish etc on a very hot rock. The meat is raw and you can cook it to your liking. It seems to be very tender that way.
Thursday 29th April Katherine to Edith Falls
After uploading the last blog instalment last night, the computer decided to play up so it spent a weekend in Katherine being repaired. This meant I couldn’t access the emails I had put off until the morning.
Went to Katherine camping and fishing store. If anyone needs anything relating to any item required for their trip this is
the place to pick it up. We couldn’t think of anything they didn’t have!
Left Katherine at 11.15am and arrived Edith Falls in Nitmiluk National Park about an hour later. Booked for 2 nights.
Normally you can swim in the plunge pool, which is a very large waterfall fed pool on the same level as the campground and an easy walk. However 2 weeks previously there had been 50mm of rain and a saltie (saltwater crocadile) had moved in. This one had been removed but a full check had to be done to ensure that no other crocodiles were in residence. A shame as the water looked very inviting.
The alternative was a pool, called middle pool, up a level beyond the first waterfall and reached by a steep rocky path of around 600 metres. You really appreciated the pool when you arrived! There are many rocks in the water but there are some deep pools to swim in and the water rushing through a narrow gap gave the kids, large and small, lots of fun as they were swept through. As I was determined to have a cool swim I didn’t even take the camera and left the photography
up to Lyle.
It stayed very hot until after 8pm, when I had my 3rd shower for the day! Lyle took the spot light out but we saw nothing except cane toads.
Friday 30th April Edith Falls
Went for a walk up the road today looking for birds. Waited patiently for a while but nothing much about.
Had a wander around the camp and checked out the plunge pool. The campground is very well looked after and the facilities are excellent. There are plenty of sites and spread out to give some privacy. The shop is very welcome with cold drinks etc.
The camp is filling up fast, guess it is for the weekend. Have been told of Umbrawarra Gorge so have decided to there tomorrow as the computer is unlikely to ready in such a short timel.
Saturday 1st May Edith Falls to Umbrawarra
Umbrawarra is only an hours drive from Edith Falls down a dirt road. There was some water on the causeways and a few deep dips into dry creek beds but nothing too much of a problem. The camping area itself is quite small with some fireplaces, platforms and one toilet. There was only one camper
there when we arrived but soon it started to fill up to capacity. Found out that this weekend is a long weekend for NT therefore lots of people.
Went for a walk up the gorge and found a pool/section of the Stray Creek with a beach. (The path in is concreted for about 500 metres, then you climb over rocks step over rock pools.) The water is beautiful, fairly clear and flowing well, cool but not cold. The pool is moderately long under amazing red cliffs in a very narrow gorge It is deeper on the cliff side of the creek. There are occasional rocks on the bottom to watch out for. The river flows through some rocky areas, some with grasses and trees creating a serene and quiet atmosphere. Truly a place to relax.
The vegetation varies with paperbark, pandanus, tea tree in flower, native hibiscus and a large variety of grasses.
The camp continues to fill with 17 vehicles by nightfall. Had thought of going somewhere else but have realized that no matter where we go all the long weekenders will be there and we may end up not being able to get in, thus we have decided
to stay here.
Sunday 2nd May Umbrawarra
Crying babies during the night and the girls next to us talked until all hours. Therefore we were up early and ready for a longer walk before the heat set in. Walked past the beach and over some rocks until we came to a sheer cliff with a long pool underneath. Lyle thought we would have to swim through it or cross the creek and go through some scrub, scrambling over rocks. We decided to give it a miss. Took some photos of a small waterfall and ambled back looking for birds. These were flitting through the trees always out of camera range.
A couple of water monitors were sunbaking on some rocks when one chased the other into the water. One swam around a little before climbing out again and watching us watching him.
Some campers leaving and others arriving leaving us with about the same number. We are using lots of our provisions so will have quite a shop in Katherine.
Monday 3rd May Umbrawarra
Gradually all the other campers left with a couple of stragglers staying until the afternoon and a few day trippers calling in from time to
time.
Spent the time setting up and playing with the GPS. Hiked up the nearby hill, steep but not long mapping all the way.
Another swim in the creek, the water is so clear and fresh.
Attempted to do some star trails and after setting up the camera after all the other campers had left I went back after dark and waited patiently for 45 minutes to get some good star trails only to find that I HAD LEFT THE LENS CAP ON!!!! Was so annoyed with myself that I only did a 10 minute star trail and packed up.
Tuesday 4th May Umbrawarra → Katherine → Flora River Nature Park
Collected the computer, repaired, had a great coffee at the Coffee Club went to the fabulous camping and fishing shop and bought a new stretcher, mosquito net and mat. Having worn out my swimmers bought some new ones for $3.55. Couldn’t believe it, on special I was told down from $55.
Back to the Coffee Club for lunch after the hectic round of shopping, and then finally on our way west again to the Flora River Nature Park. 132km from Katherine to the campground.
Set up
camp in a lovely spot, showers, toilets and plenty of water. Went on the little 10 minute walk to Djarrung Falls then 15minutes to Kathleen Falls. It was quite difficult to see the falls through all the foliage. Djarrung Falls are spread across the river and are created by limestone deposits called tufa which build up. The rocks are everywhere. Kathleen Falls is like a secret garden, with the water cascading through and over a number of islands and between trees. A really beautiful falls. Impossible to do it justice, takes your breath away.
A family was there fishing though they hadn’t caught anything when we were there.
Lyle lit the cooking ring on the top of the large gas canister and the whole thing went up in flames. He tried to stop it with a towel and on the second attempt managed to turn it off. For a while there we were worried the whole thing might blow up. We won’t use it again until we have had someone look at it. Looks like we will go through lots of the little gas canisters for the small stove.
Took some photos of the sunset. The air
became very still for a while and remained quite warm. We felt the hoped for breeze about 8pm although it wasn’t cool.
Wednesday 5th May Flora River Nature Park
We went fishing down at the boat ramp where Lyle promptly lost a lure in the tree and I lost the hook and sinker on the 1st throw, not a very good start. From then on I snagged the line quite a few times. There would be lots of crocs in the river so abandoned the lure. Moved to the 16km river picnic/day area. Here there were a couple of BBQ’s and platforms but no toilets or other facilities. The BBQ’s have not been cleared since the wet and the area has lots of growth. The platforms survived surprisingly well. The debris is piled up metres above the current water level, you can imagine the torrent and force of the water that must have hurtled down the river. Even now the river is still very deep.
Didn’t have any luck fishing though and lost a few more hooks. I caught a small fish which we used for bait without success. Lyle is waiting for the big Barra. Back
to camp for lunch and lazed around during the heat of the day. There is lots of black soil here and it seems to stain your feet. I soaked mine in an attempt to get it off. Did manage to clean most of it.
Unfortunately the reapir people must have used the laptop on battery, even though I had left the charger with them so I had no power to do anything.
All the other campers had left and no more arrived today so had an early night so we could go fishing early in the morning in the hope that they would be biting early. However at around 9pm a vehicle arrived and drove around the camping area, stopping and starting. Eventually they pulled up to the amenities block and we believe had a shower then left going further into the park not away from it. This being the only campground we thought it a bit strange. However there is a bush camp down the 16km road so thought they may be workers, either rangers or workers for the nearby staion. There are cattle in the park.
Thursday 6th May Flora River Nature Park
Today
we did get up slightly earlier and had coffee before heading down to the fishing. Saw a couple of kangaroos, very skittish here and then a dingo came up on the road in front of us and started to just run along the road. We gave him the opportunity to go into the bush on the side but it ran into the bush then straight back onto the road. We traveled along at 40km an hour for quite some time before he finally left the road then stood and watched us briefly before disappearing into the undergrowth. Photos are very difficult when jolting over a bush track so not much to show for the experience.
Threw a line in hoping for a better result today. Mine went completely untouched so eventually gave up. Shortly after Lyle started he had a really good bite and caught a very large cat fish. He assured me we could eat it so kept it for breakfast. Lyle kept trying for the elusive barra. I went off looking for photo opportunities. Nearly walked into a couple of kangaroos behind a bush and they took off before I had a chance to do anything, they
must have been only 10 feet away.
Had the catfish for breakfast after Lyle had filleted it and I floured it and cooked it. I was expecting a strong taste but really it was quite bland.
Relaxed for most of the day ready for the long drives in the next couple of days.
Friday 7th May Flora River Nature Park →Top Springs→Wave Hill→?
Left Flora River and headed back down the dirt road to the Victoria Highway and then turned onto the Buntine Highway intending to go to Wave Hill.
The Buntine Highway was a strip of bitumen one lane wide which ran from the Victoria Highway to the other side of Wave Hill (Kalkaringi). There were a surprising number of natural forested areas all with tall grasses. The land varied from rolling hills to flat plains with some dry watercourses and a few with some water.
Stopped for lunch at Top Springs which consists of a pub with a couple of bowsers for fuel and nothing else. Refueled both vehicle and ourselves. The pub is center of activity for the district with things such as Meet & Greet nights to get everyone together. Must
be a great social occasion.
Arrived at Wave Hill and realized it wasn’t what we expected. There was really nothing there. Pullred in to refuel. The bowsers had metal grids on them and to fill up Lyle had to go to a window and ask the lady to turn on the pump. When full he had to go back and tell her what the cost was as she didn’t seem to have a readout!
Didn’t like the look of all the wire fences and it seemed that you would be locked in at night for security in the campground which was next to the service station. Decided we would prefer to camp in the bush so headed off down the road, it was way to far to go to the next stop which was Halls Creek.
There were almost no side roads and definitely no rest areas so after checking out the beginning of a closed road to Gregory National Park and finding nothing suitable continued on and found a radio tower with a nice cleared area around it. The track in was barely visible just being 2 wheel tracks and mostly grown over. Set up a
very basic camp and decided that we would wake at 4am and drive on in the cool of the day. It became cooler so after a sandwich for dinner went to bed very early around 8pm.
Saturday 8th May ? → Hall’s Creek
It became colder and colder so after 4 hours sleep it became too cold to sleep and my sleeping bag was up in a box on the roof of the car and I didn’t want to wake Lyle to get it down so slept nary a wink more. At last the buzzer went for 4 am and I woke Lyle, we packed up and were on the road in 25 minutes.
We used the heater in the car for the 1st time. Drove on with the dirt road gradually deteriorating, until it became what Lyle described as a goat track. This a highway! An advantage is that there was next to no traffic, we saw only a few vehicles the entire way.
As the sun rose we found ourselves in WA with totally flat plains as far a s the eye could see. There weren’t even any trees in most of it. Stopped to get dressed but decided to keep going for a while. The road was quite rough in parts and then in the distance we could see a low mountain range. As we came closer we could see some of the hills were covered in spinifex grass and some were bare. There were beautiful trees in the gullies and the early morning light brought it all to life. Lyle agreed there were pictures where ever you looked. As we were too tired to stop for photos decided that we would come back and try and camp in the area at a later date.
Came first to Old Halls Creek which seemed to be just a camping area. Past this was the quarantine bins for all fresh fruit and veggies which you can’t take into WA. We ate the last 2 apples and threw out anything else. Fortunately we had managed to use most things, the fruit & veg shops in Hall’s Creek must do well.
Booked into the caravan park which is very full as there are a lot of contractors around at the moment. Picked up fuel and tried to solve the gas bottle problem.
Lyle spoke to a fellow with an Okka vehicle who turned out to be a gas fitter and he told us get a new ‘O’ ring. We had noticed the ring earlier but wasn’t sure if that was the only problem with the gas bottle connections. With gas and flame going everywhere you don’t want to take any chances.
Shopped to refill the larder then returned and put the tents up. Added the sleeping bag to my bed, everyone here was saying last night was the coldest they had recently felt.
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Lisa Greene
non-member comment
star trail
What is a star trail? Really enjoying the blog. Cant believe you are already in WA!