Halls Creek to Broome

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Sunday 9th May Hall’s Creek

Decided to drive down to Wolfe Creek Crater. Thought we could go later in the day so that we could get some nice light on the crater. First we went and had a look at a rock formation called the China Wall. In the end left for the crater at 2.30pm a little earlier than originally intended. The crater is about 130km down the Tanami road. We did decide that doing that distance on the Tanami was sufficient. The corrugations, areas of stones, holes etc made the trip very slow as in many parts we needed to travel at 40km/hour or less. It felt like every nut and bolt in the vehicle was coming loose, not to mention our teeth. I thought they might rattle out as well! From the Tanami road turnoff to the crater is 20km, slightly better than the Tanami. There were 4 gates as you travel through a property first..

The crater really rises from the plain. The whole area seems flat to the horizon around the crater. The outside wall is a little less steep and relatively easy to climb, although there are quite a few loose stones. The inside wall of the crater seemed very steep and rocky in the area of the track from the carpark. We elected not to go down the steeper inside track. It is possible to walk across the crater.

The bottom of the crater looks a little like a target with the outside circle grass, with the odd low shrub then a fringe of higher trees around the bulls eye. The bulls eye itself is a grey colour from where we were without as much vegetation.

We took some photos of the crater. I felt that with the experience we had of the roads it would be better to head off back while there was some light. On the return trip we stopped before one of the gates and took some photos at an abandoned farmhouse. There was a movable kitchen which must have been used for something like mustering etc. It hadn’t been moved for a very long time.

Dark set in when we were about a third of the way back and from then on we had to keep a careful watch for kangaroos on the road. At one stage saw something that looked like a black cat run across. We had managed to avoid quite a number of ‘roos that would suddenly jump out from the side until eventually 2 roos that had been standing by the side of the road jumped in front of us. We had been suspicious of them so had slowed right down when they dashed in front. The first one made it through but we just touched the second. He didn’t seem too injured, we were almost at a standstill and he hopped off afterward. Hopefully he was alright.

Made it back to Halls Creek and went to dinner in town. A buffet with roast meat. I did have trouble distinguishing the difference between the pork and lamb. However it was a nice change.

Monday 10th May Hall’s Creek

Stayed at the camp and finished the previous blog. It is sometimes quite difficult as you are outside, the power connection is away from any shade and the reflections on the screen can be quite a distraction. If the light shines the wrong way it is almost impossible to see the screen, even in the shade. At night the insects love the screen and you type with various moths and other tiny creatures crawling over the screen as you type. Also I can only upload where there is access to the internet which is sometimes a week or more apart. So please be patient when nothing appears for some time.

Apart from a little shopping we had a quiet day. Had a swim in the pool at the caravan park and a BBQ.

Later a young French couple came over and asked for some hot water for their noodles. They were traveling around Australia for 9-12 months by hitch hiking. They had about a month left before they had to return. They had been working at various basic jobs such as fruit picking. There was also a young British fellow who was traveling around in a similar fashion. He had quite a lot to say. Generally he seemed to enjoying himself and was intending to go to New Zealand next.

Tomorrow we go to the Bungle Bungles.

Tuesday 11th May Hall’s Creek → Bungle Bungles

Arrived at Bungle Bungle park office around 11.40am Paid for 4 nights. Not sure how long we need, we can always book another night if we wish.

Went to Kurrajong campsite first. This is the northerly site which only opened yesterday. We have no idea why it was closed as there was no water and definitely no fire as had been rumoured.

Went for a walk through the Echidna Chasm late in the afternoon and included the nearby lookout. We had been advised that the best time to see it was at midday when the sun shines into the chasm so we will come back tomorrow midday.

The rocks look wonderful as they are a rusty red with the afternoon light.

The camp has toilets and fire places with signs saying fire ban. There is also water, always good.

The camping area is a little way from the range and we couldn’t see it well from where we were camped.

Wednesday 12th May Bungle Bungles - Kurrajong Camp

Up with the dawn and a quick coffee then off for the mini palms gorge walk. Took some cashews, dried mango, and apple biscuits and plenty of water. The time recommended was 2-3 hours. We took 3 hours but really took our time, took quite a few pictures and reveled in the quietness as were the only ones there at that time of the morning. It certainly made the walking much better.

On the walk yesterday and today you walked down a dry creek bed which is filled with loose stones and rocks, some quite large. It is almost like walking on soft sand, perhaps not quite as bad, it certainly gives ankles and knees a good workout. Climbing a few of the rocks was challenging for me as you needed to step quite high. You also need to squeeze between some rocks.

The walk leading into the gorge has quite a lot of flowers and interesting vegetation though most people have told us there is nothing in the first section. The mini palms gorge is quite spectacular. You enter with the gorge cliffs becoming steeper and higher in bright red/orange with palm growing in all sorts of rock crevices often up high in the cliffs. Part of the track goes over strewn fallen rocks from the cliffs. All seem to be conglomerate with often huge stones embedded. The stones are rounded and smooth and there are an awful lot of them. At the end is a natural amphitheatre reached by a final flight of stairs. It is quite dark and could have done with a tripod for the photos but looks spectacular.

Although we had started out when it was cooler, walking was hot when ever you were in the sun, particularly for the 1st part of the walk.

Moved around to the beginning of the Echidna Chasm walk. Both walks had picnic tables with shadecloth and toilets. I would have to say that what facilities are provided by the park are in very good repair and suitable.

Met up with the young couple who were camped next to us last night. With the assistance of them and one of their books we were able to identify the legless lizard Lyle had found in the Chasm yesterday. Called Burton legless lizard. Also checked that the flowers we had seen on the side of the road were wild flowers not weeds!

Went to the Echidna chasm for the recommended time but at 11.55am the clouds came over. We still did see most of the light coming into the chasm, so we were very lucky.

Stir fry for dinner before an early bed, it is getting dark just after 5.30pm


Thurday 13th May Bungle Bungles - Camp Walardi

As we didn’t have far to go we packed roughly and drove down to the 2nd camping area at the southern end of the park (Walardi). Here we camped by another dry creek bed. The drop here was too much to walk into it. There seems to be a lot more birds here particularly across the creek in a grove of trees.

Headed down to the airport to book a helicopter ride over the gorges. Booked for early tomorrow morning. Lyle didn’t want to go and a minimum of 2 people is required so I was lucky that there was another couple going.

We sat and did some bird watching in the afternoon. Tomorrow after the flight we intend to go on the Cathedral walk. Cleaned all the cameras lenses etc from all the red dust that has accumulated. The car has been quite good and although dust has come

It became very cloudy in the afternoon so hope it doesn’t rain. Put a tarp over the tents as it had rained a few drops and the sky looks ominous.

Friday 14th May Bungle Bungles →Larrawa

Rained lightly all night, not too sure about the flight as it is very overcast, that light grey look. At the airport the flight was still going ahead but rain is predicted for the next 3 days and it sprinkles every now and again. The helicopter travels at around 140km/hr so rain coming in the open section and the flat look from the sky convinced me to cancel my flight and we will come to the Bungles again on our way back from Broome.

Threw all the gear into the car and headed down the road on the way to Broome. The prospect of 3 days of rain with the dirt roads and creeks (with water) to cross was not appealing.

On the way out (52km back to the main road) we saw a pack of dingoes feeding on something. Hope it wasn’t a baited carcass. Stopped to get a picture and fortunately they seemed reluctant to leave. Some started to wander off. I managed to get out of the car and walk around the other side for a better view. Had to stand on the step of the car to calm them down. I couldn’t see what they were feeding on as there was a rock and some grass in front of it. Still it was an exciting encounter. Another car came along, they started to move so we left.

Stopped at Halls Creek for fuel and lunch although it was only 11.30am. Went to the Kimberley Hotel and had a coffee before lunch was open in the Sports Bar at 12md. I had salt and pepper calamari, perfectly cooked, very tender, with lots of salad definitely to be recommended. Lyle had a hamburger, which was also exceptional.

A fellow camper chatted to Lyle while I was buying for the larder, and told him of a cattle station on the way to Fitzroy Crossing that took in campers. He said they were very friendly and helpful. , although he didn’t know the name of the property. Decided we would try and find it for somewhere different. Found the place, Larrawa, without too much difficulty although there was only the sign on the gate. It turns out they had applied to council for signs but so far council hasn’t done anything. The ways of all councils it seems are slow and tedious.

The camping area is quite new, with new trees planted and a good amenities block. All pretty new with time needed for it to become more established but the people are friendly. There is a donkey that was originally used as a pack animal when they were mustering. He is now the family pet but not friendly. He objected loudly when we arrived then disappeared. We heard him once during the night and again in the morning. Donkey’s can bray verrrrry loudly.

Had a nice piece of grass for our tents and settled in. So did the rain. I decided to give the tent a go in the rain and see if there were any leaks.

Just managed to finish dinner before the rain came so really went to bed early! Around 6.30pm. Thank goodness I had a good book and my nifty head lamp which is fantastic for reading and moving about the camp. Keeps your hands free and you can see exactly what you are doing. The only thing is that being so bright they can shine into someone’s eyes whenever you look up.

Saturday 15th May Larrawa → Broome

It poured and the wind raged all night. My tent held up superbly, no leaks, didn’t move in the wind. Lyle had an extra tarp on his. It had stopped raining when we rose this morning so we quickly packed up the tents and most of the gear then had breakfast. The bacon & eggs were fantastic instead of our usual porridge. Just made it though before it started raining again.

On leaving the station a kangaroo charged in front of us at full speed, straight under the low wire of a fence without any hesitation and no break in it’s run. It would be the fastest I have ever seen a kangaroo move.

The horses belonging to the property were on the property’s road as we were leaving, along with 3 mules. The mules were quite big, nearly as big as the horses. These to had been used as pack animals. The horses were in very good condition and looked wonderful as they cantered away.

Turned left and headed west towards Broome. Arrived at Fitzroy crossing at around 10.30am, refueled and decided to see if we made Broome, which we did with intermittent light showers and heavy rain all the way. At Willare Roadhouse we stopped for lunch and had the most enormous hamburgers you can imagine. They had just received word that the Gibb River Road was closed and also Tunnel Creek which is one place we had talked about going to before Broome, so we were pleased that we had decided to go on, we may have been stuck there.

Arrived Broome around 4.15pm just before the information centre closed. They found us a place in a motel called Ocean Lodge. It is a budget motel but well run with everything in good repair and very helpful when there is a problem.

Only wanted a light meal for dinner after the huge hamburger at lunch. Ended up at Lustre, a bar and restaurant. I ordered a scallop salad with mango and cashews which was exceptional, thank goodness it was a salad as it was quite large. Lyle had the Thai beef salad which he was very impressed with. Certainly a place to remember.


Sunday 16th May Broome

Had a look around Broome, checking out the places to go when Gordon and Pat arrive. Went down to the Bird sanctuary where it is possible to camp. This is down a dirt road with quite a few corrugations but not too difficult. About 17km off the main road. We may stay there just before the others arrive.

The day improved with most of the cloud vanishing and turned into a lovely day. Fish and chips for lunch on cable beach was a must and very relaxing. Did some more of the blog this afternoon and then down to Cable Beach to watch the sunset. Couldn’t believe the number of cars that drove down onto the sand to watch the sunset and the camels as they came in. Many had little consideration where they stopped although the signs told them to go north of the rocks some stopped in the middle ensuring they were in everyone’s photographs. As Lyle said, why would you want all that salty sand under your car, the rust proofing would have to be pretty good.

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Photos

Bungle-dingo
Protecting its food

Near-Echidna-Chasm
Northern end of the Bungle Bungles

Comments

[anonymous]

dinos
http://home.alphalink.com.au/~dannj/places.htm Check out this site for aussie dinos. I didnt know mt isa and hughenden have dinos. Cant find as much on the crater you visited though. Lisa