Out from the wilderness

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We are back from the wilderness. Well not quite wilderness, Karijini National Park in Western Australia’s Pilbara region. One of the doctors at work said we mustn’t miss it and he was right. What a beautiful place it is. Red hills and escarpments, rich in iron ore, dotted with clumps of spinifex and elegant white trunked ghost gums. The park features several gorges, some of which we visited and some we missed out on. We really wanted to go to Hammersly Gorge a two hundred kilometre return trip to the far north corner of the park, but when we got out to the turn-off, there was a sign stating that the road was closed for construction. Disappointed, we paid a visit to Weano Gorge for a picnic lunch and a short walk to a couple of lookouts. Oxer Lookout was quite poignant with a memorial to Jimmy Reagan, a State Emergency Service volunteer from Newman who died during a cliff rescue in 2004 when a flash flood came through. A pool in the gorge has been named in his honour. His death is a stark reminder that there are consequences of peoples risk taking behaviours that affect others.
We then trekked down the very steep and rocky track to Fortescue Falls in Dales Gorge to have a swim in the pool. The only thing that spoilt the swim was the brown algae that bobbed around in clumps in the water. Although harmless, they were reminiscent of something else, and made me think twice before entering. Cold at first, the water was very refreshing and we paddled around happily for a while before making the trek back up which was surprisingly easier going up than down.
Our home while at Karijini was a free camping site. We even had an address for two nights - number 53 Kangaroo Loop. By free camping, I don’t mean that it had no cost; it means that there was no water or power and we had to be self sufficient, which we are. We did make use of the convenience of the park toilet rather than use our own. Gone are the days of wandering into the bush with a spade and a roll of paper. The view from our door was the toilet about thirty metres away. There was plenty of bush to distract from the loo.
We met some of our neighbours after breakfast on the first morning. The cutest lizards reside in the area. They are not timid and hang around long enough to have their photos taken, and even change their pose. One of them even came up to Frank while he was squatted down to photograph it, and tapped him on the foot with its front foot. We saw a few of these little fellows as the day progressed.
Being without power, means no air-conditioner, as we don’t have a generator. This means we have all the windows open to let in the breeze. Despite flyscreens, it also means that we are letting in hundreds of bugs, which are attracted to the light. Some of the bugs are very interesting, like the ones that look like small green dragon flies. The smallest insects seem to just walk right through the screens. There have been bugs using my sparkling wine as a spa! Corpses will be removed in the morning.
No power and wilderness also means no radio, TV or internet. We don’t know if Geelong is going to be in the Grand Final next week. First chance we get; I will be checking the results.
OK, time has passed and I now know the results. It will be a pity to miss the pre Grand Final excitement in Geelong. Go Cats!!
We had a very long day travelling today, over seven hundred kilometres. Our itinery had us camping at Nanuturra Roadhouse, but we decided to continue on to Exmouth, giving us a three-night stop there. A few days ago we spoke to somebody who suggested we avoid staying at this particular roadhouse because they are very expensive. That was an understatement. It cost almost thirty dollars for a pie, a sausage roll, flavoured milk, apple juice and one ice cream. And diesel was thirty cents per litre dearer than each stop either side! The only good thing about the place was that they had a toilet. There were no toilets for the next two hundred and eighty kilometres!
We haven’t heard the news for almost a week. I wonder if anything extraordinary has happened in the world in our absence.

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Photos

Floating
Floating in the plunge pool at Fortescue Falls.

Ghost Gum
The white trunks of the Ghost Gums are striking against the red of the rock.

Landscape patchwork
The Pilbara landscape is made up of a patchwork of colours, particularly when the wildflowers are in bloom.

Loo with a view
A typical bush toilet, except for the absence of walls.

Monument
Monument to Jimmy Reagan, SES volunteer killed during a cliff rescue in 2004.

Mauve Mist
These mauve flowers are a frequent feature of the landscape.

Wildlife Photographer
Frank getting up close to a lizard.

Smile
One of the friendly lizards we met on our travels.

Wildflowers
Mauve flowers and grasses