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Published: March 9th 2014
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It seems strange that one of the blackest pages of history rates as one of the most visited sites in Australia. There is no attempt to gloss over the past of the convict era or the more recent tragedy other than the perpetrator of needless pain is not mentioned by name anywhere or by anyone on site.
The Port Arthur European history took a major step forward when the British decided that they should raise their flag here before the French or even the Dutch. There are many French names on Tasmania from their early explorers, but the Brits wanted the land.
How do you colonise such an island that has no roads, resources or settlers? Well you send convicts to provide a population base, and then offer these people as workers to free men to help them establish working enterprises.
Some of these enterprises were successful like the timber trade where large trees were felled and the timber used for naval purposes back in Britain.
Other enterprises were a total flop. On the harbour side the Brits (using convict labour) built a grain storage and milling building. Sadly, wheat doesn't grow in this climate, and to
add insult to injury, the water duct to carry water to the water wheel didn't have any fall, so the mill couldn't grind even imported wheat.
Never mind, the water wheel was adapted as a tread mill for punishment, 7 minutes on and 7 minutes off the wheel for 12 or more hours a day.
Another perception that we had needed adjusting. The convicts were sent to Tasmania, only repeat offenders were jailed here, and many came from the main land. The others worked in gangs (with foot shackles) in the forest etc, and later built roads through Tasmania from Hobart to Launceston.
This place has so much history, some of it weird, most of it crushing the spirit of the convicts, though some of course became free men (but couldn't return to Britain) and made a life here. Others were destroyed and when their sentence was completed (7, 14 or 21 years) they were paupers, so the State had to provide shelter and accommodation for these guys. Remember too that 65 of today is the old 35, with few living more than 40 years.
When you enter the site, you are given a playing card
which assists you to identify your own convict and what happened to them while at Port Arthur. Mine, John Langford was sent here because he stole 2 saddles. Marg's for taking iron filings home. Their history is traced at various points in the display and makes interesting reading.
There are several photos from the solitary confinement or Separate Block as it was known. These prisoners sat in a darkish room 23 hours a day in total silence. One hour a day was in a wedge of cheese individual exercise court. No windows in the cell. mattress on the floor at night. Only Sunday was different where they went to The Divine Service. Here they heard the same sermon every Sunday and they sang the same 2 hymns every Sunday. This was the only time their voices were ever heard.
I hope you get part of the vision from the pictures, but they cannot represent the deprivation that hovered over this site.
This is a must see site, the cost of entry which includes a cruise around the harbour for around 30 minutes is excellent value. It is from here that you realise that there is a natural
beauty in this sheltered haven.
The blog title asks 'Can a black page be made pretty?' A better question is 'What has brought this blackness over the creator's beautiful haven?'
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Stevo
non-member comment
Some 'homework'
Liked your observations of Pt Arthur - now is the time to read 'For the Term of His Natural Life', written by Marcus Clarke. A very sad place indeed. When you passed through Evansdale & Perth you passed through a spot where a probable distant relative of Mary was 'based' for several years about 1840. Enjoy your trip. Off to the scourging from Wednesday!!!