A "Tassie Tale" - Tasmania, Australia - February 2024

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Give yourself a shake, drop those shoulders, and ease yourself into all that Tasmania has to offer. Reconnect with nature, wildlife, and your taste buds on a trip to this impossibly beautiful island state. Its natural beauty is captivating, its cultural experiences are diverse, and its food and drink offerings are enviable. Get a true taste of Tasmania in its fresh apple cider, cheeses, wine, and oysters, and experience a dose of its serenity with its powder-white beaches and laid-back luxury. Reveling in isolation, naturally beautiful Tasmania is busting out, riding a tourism-fueled economic boom that's the envy of all Australia.

Located just 150 miles south of the Australian mainland, the island has a rich and intriguing history as one of the oldest territories in the Australian Federation. Did you know that Tasmania is actually one of the biggest islands in the world? It’s thought that Aborigines have been here for at least 40,000 years and because of being cut off from the mainland by rising sea levels, they were entirely isolated from the outside world for about 8,000 years until the first European contact.

A Little Bit of History: Tasmania’s history begins at the end of the last glacial period (approximately 12,000 years ago) when it is believed that the island was joined to the Australian mainland. Little is known of the human history of the island until the British colonization in the 19^th century. The first reported sighting of the island by a European was November 24, 1642, by Dutch explorer Abel Tasman, who landed at today's Blackman Bay. He named the island Anthoonij van Diemenslandt after his sponsor, the Governor of the Dutch East Indies. The name was later shortened to Van Diemen’s Land by the British. More than a century later, in 1772, a French expedition landed at a nearby but different Blackman Bay. The following year Tobias Furneaux became the first Englishman to set foot in Tasmania when he arrived at Adventure Bay, which he named after his ship HMX Adventure. Captain James Cook also landed here in 1777. Matthew Flinders and George Bass sailed through Bass Strait in 1798–1799, determining for the first time that Tasmania was indeed an island!

Tasmania was eventually sent 75,000 convicts - 4 out of every 10 people transported to Australia. By 1819 the Aboriginal and British population reached parity with about 5,000 of each, although among the colonists’ men outnumbered women four-to-one. Free settlers began arriving in large numbers from 1820, lured by the promise of land grants and free convict labor.

My introduction to this island state began when I arrived in Port Arthur (named after George Arthur, the lieutenant governor of Van Diemen’s Land) on a cloudy, cool day in February, with temps hovering around 65f – yes, it’s summertime down under now, but these temps don’t support the season. Port Arthur is a town and former convict settlement, located approximately 70 miles southeast of the state capital, Hobart. The site forms part of the Australian Convict Sites, a World Heritage property consisting of 11 remnant penal sites originally built within the British Empire during the 18^th and 19^th centuries on fertile Australian coastal strips. Collectively, these sites, including Port Arthur, are described by UNESCO as "... the best surviving examples of large-scale convict transportation and the colonial expansion of European powers through the presence and labor of convicts."

The story of the Port Arthur Historic Site is a story of many people, places, and moments. Over its long history, it has been a place of hardship and punishment, a place of opportunity, and a place of leisure. Now it is one of Australia’s most important heritage destinations, where the story of Australia’s colonial history is written in stone and brick. The Port Arthur penal settlement began life as a small timber station in 1830 and quickly grew in importance within the colonies. Ship building was introduced on a large scale as a way of providing selected convicts with a useful skill they could take with them once freed. The 1853 cessation of transportation resulted in fewer transportees arriving at the station. However, the 1850s and 1860s were years of remarkable activity, that aimed to make the station economically sustainable. Port Arthur’s story did not end with the removal of the last convict. Almost immediately the site was renamed Carnarvon and, during the 1880s, land was parceled up and put to auction, people taking up residence in and around the old site.

Port Arthur Historic Site - it is not only one of the best Port Arthur tourist attractions, but it’s one of best historical sites in Australia. This is the site where the worst offenders were sent. Life was tough here, and the stories and buildings reflect this fact. The site is huge. There are over 30 buildings to explore as well as gardens and ruins. Among these are the church, asylum, prison cells as well as the homes of freemen offering a glimpse into what life was like from multiple perspectives. The best place to start is at the Interactive Centre, where you can learn about the lives of real people and see relics from the past.

Entry includes a 40-minute walking tour and a 20-minute harbor cruise with commentary, as well as full access to the site. There are also site talks throughout the day in various buildings that are included so make sure you get a timetable for these on arrival. When you’re done exploring there’s also a restaurant, a café, and an excellent gift shop. If you’re around at night, I highly recommend a Port Arthur Ghost Tour. These tours explore a very different side – the paranormal! With such a dark history, ghost sightings and stories abound. This is a 90-minute lantern lit tour of the site complete with some of the strangest stories you’ll hear (and maybe a ghost sighting of your own!). It’s a lot of fun.

Consider a visit to another of the Port Arthur places of interest – Isle of the Dead and it’s exactly as it sounds. It is a tiny island cemetery where the bodies of over 1,000 convicts and freemen (including women and children) lie beneath the surface. All that rest here were buried between 1833 and 1877. This is a solemn spot to visit. Many of the convict graves are unmarked. A visit here includes a walking tour with personal accounts of the convicts, freemen and their families who rest here. Isle of the Dead can only be visited by visitors to Port Arthur Historic Site, so if you’re interested, make sure you purchase a tour.

A visit to Doo Town is one of the more quirky things to do in Port Arthur and of course, it’s my personal favorite. This town (which is actually located in Eaglehawk Neck) has become famous for having house names which include some variation of “doo”. This trend, which started in 1935, quickly spread to the entire town and nearly every house has a name. Some of the names are funny, some are quite clever, and some are harder to spot than others. You could even stop at the cafe Doo-lishus for lunch! It’s a quick and easy place to drive through and take a few photos before heading to other things to do around the area.

A Little Bit of History about Doo Town: it’s a delightful and quirky beachside village. Let me share some fascinating tidbits about this charming place:

· It began its journey as an unnamed timber station in the 1830s. Over time, it evolved into a shack community.

· The whimsical tradition that sets Doo Town apart started around when a Hobart architect named Eric Round placed a nameplate on his shack. It read “Doo I 99.”
A neighbor responded by putting up their own nameplate, which read “Doo Me.” And thus, the trend continued, with each neighbor adding their unique twist.As you wander through Doo Town, you’ll encounter an array of shacks, each adorned with amusing nameplates containing the word “Doo.” These creative monikers will surely bring a smile to your face.<li class="MsoNormal" style="color: #18181a; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo3; tab-stops: list .5in; background: white;">While the names are playful, the scenery is breathtaking. Imagine picturesque coastal views, crystal-clear waters, and rugged cliffs—the perfect backdrop for your social media pics.


The Tasmanian Devil Unzoo’s philosophy is about teaching the public about animals in their natural habitat and is thus the reverse concept of a zoo – we are in their habitat! The animals are freer to roam and thus this zoo offers a unique opportunity to interact with native animals. Wallabies, echidnas, pademelons (a small kangaroo) as well as various species of birds are all found here. As the name suggests, the top attraction is the Tasmanian Devil. Particularly exciting are the feedings which are held several times daily. Devils are cute but ferocious at mealtimes! Workers tell stories of how some devils escape mealtime with their face having been bitten into by another devil. In addition to the several Tasmanian Devil feedings daily, there are other presentations like kangaroo hand feedings, rosella feedings and nature walks. There’s basically a presentation every 15 – 30 minutes. You can also take part in their Devil Tracker Tour. This is a 3-hour tour which takes you behind the scenes where you can assist in tracking and helping Tasmanian Devils in the wild.

Did You Know?

· Port Arthur was touted as an inescapable prison, similar to Alcatraz Island. Some prisoners were not discouraged by this and tried to escape. Martin Cash successfully escaped along with two others.

· The city was the birthplace of rail transport in Australia. In 1836, a tramway was established with the sole propulsion being convicts.

· It was the scene of the worst mass murder in Australian history in 1996, when a gunman killed 35 people.



Sure, most people visit Tasmania to bask in its natural beauty. But that doesn’t mean you should neglect its capital of Hobart, a stunning and charming city that will bring out the urbanite in you. No doubt about it, Hobart’s future is looking rosy. Tourism is booming and the old town is humming with low vacancy rates, high real-estate prices and new-found self-confidence. The naughty weekend away in Hobart has become de rigeur for mainland Australians and with 48 hours to play with, you’ll get a true taste of this photogenic southern city. Home to about 218,000 inhabitants, it’s Australia’s southern-most state capital which has really come into its own over the past decade. This was once a sleepy outpost with a backwards economy, bad coffee, and absolutely nowhere to eat after 8pm! But a few things fell into place: cheaper airfares, international exposure and the arrival of the astonishing MONA art museum, all conspiring to put Hobart on the map. Sniff the sea-salty air around the waterfront and imposing Salamanca Place; wander through the historic enclave of Battery Point; dart to the summit of Mt. Wellington for some spectacular panoramas; hop on a ferry to MONA for a risqué art infusion; then skip up to North Hobart for a meal, a movie, and some lively tunes.

For visitors arriving via cruise ship, docking is usually at Macquarie Wharf #2. Inside the newly renovated terminal, seating is available, along with duty-free shopping of precious stones, retail outlets including high quality local crafts and gifts, an ATM machine, free Wifi, visitor information services and a bureau de change nearby. Located approximately 10 minutes from downtown Hobart on foot – driving takes about 5 minutes. Hobart International Airport is roughly 20 minutes from the city center and is accessible by taxi or the Airport Shuttle bus.

Hobart’s central business district is rather utilitarian and empty on weekends. Instead, Hobartians head for the waterfront (aka Sullivans Cove) for a little R&R. Constitution Dock is the epicenter of nautical activity here, particularly after the annual end of the year Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race when the waterfront bobs with priceless ocean-going maxi-yachts (and almost as many empty champagne bottles) or the Australian Wooden Boat Festival. While here, consider spending a little time at the Maritime Museum of Tasmania, which is privately operated and dedicated to the history of Tasmania’s association with the sea, ships, and ship building. You’ll find this hidden gem at Carnegie House in Sullivan’s Cove. For lunchtime seafood try Flippers (fantastic fish and chips with mushy peas!). Also worth a look is the excellent Tasmanian Museum & Art Gallery, located just 1,660’ west of Macquarie Wharf.



But the real highlight here is Salamanca Place (a short 10-minute walk from the cruise terminal), a picturesque row of historic four-story sandstone warehouses dating back to the 1830s whaling era. These days – along with the Salamanca Square complex in the quarry out the back – Salamanca sustains a dizzying array of bars, restaurants, cafes, arts centers, and shops. Don’t miss the crafty Salamanca Market, which has happened here every Saturday morning since 1972; and a beer at historic Knopwood’s Retreat, serving ales to seagoing types since the convict times.

Facing off with Salamanca Place on the other side of Sullivans Cove is Hunter Street – once a sandy causeway running out to Hunter Island, both long buried beneath a concrete apron. Workaday Victoria Dock is here, with functioning crayfish and tuna boats going about their fishy business. The old Henry Jones IXL jam factory here now hosts the University of Tasmania’s Art School, plus restaurants, cafes, bars, and the flashy Henry Jones Art Hotel.

From Salamanca Place, detour up the foot-worn sandstone Kelly’s Steps – built by the adventurous Captain James Kelly in 1839 – into history-soaked Battery Point, a compact headland that was once home to sailors and sea captains alike. Narrow lanes like South Street and Kelly Street host improbably cute runs of old maritime cottages, while the more affluent merchants built their fancy, lace-hung mansions.



At a modest 4,167’, Mt Wellington isn’t going to leave anyone gasping for oxygen or calling for a Sherpa, but it is high enough to catch a dusting of snow in winter. Psychologically, the mountain has always been a source of protection and comfort for Hobartians, particularly during colonial times when arriving in Hobart Town must have seemed a mighty cold and far-flung misfortune. Thanks to a Depression-era initiative to keep Hobart’s men employed, you can drive all the way to the top on a sealed road: if the sky is clear, the summit views are astonishing.



The brainchild of Hobart philanthropist David Walsh, MONA (Museum of Old & New Art) has turned the Australian art world on its head. Subversive, confronting, funny and downright weird, this is art for grown-ups with distinctly countercultural overtones. You’ll need at least two hours to fully explore the darkened galleries. Be amused or be appalled – then debate over a glass of Tassie wine… there’s nothing quite like MONA anywhere else in the country. To get there, you catch a ferry upriver from the Hobart waterfront, eyeballing the museum first from the water, carved out of a sandstone headland like a vast rusty bunker. Snare a seat in the ‘Posh Pit’ for champagne and canapés enroute. Once you’ve recovered from MONA, head for North Hobart. Centered on Elizabeth Street, this is Hobart at its most arty and bohemian.



Hobart is small population-wise, but it’s long and skinny on the map, strung-out along both shores of the river Derwent. Buses, taxis, and a pair of sensible shoes will take you around Battery Point, the waterfront, and North Hobart, but to explore further you’ll need your own wheels. Pick up a rent-a-car at the airport and wheel-off towards the happy horizon. However, this city boasts an expressive HOHO bus route (always my personal favorite, as you all know) lasting 90 minutes and covering a large portion of the city with 20 stops at all the major points of interest. Prices between around $28 for 1-day adult tickets and $35 for 2 days.



Did You Know?

· It’s the world’s 26^th largest island and has more than 300 smaller islands around it.

· It’s the financial and administrative hub of Tasmania, serving as the home port for both Australian and French Antarctic operations. It is also the logistics point for the French icebreaker L'Astrolabe.

· It’s situated closer to the equator than Rome or Chicago.

· Almost half of the state is a World Heritage Area, national park, or marine and forest reserves.

· It has no passenger trains, and the only public transport is buses.

· It has a population of just over half a million people, which is 2%!o(MISSING)f Australia’s population.

· It has 69 golf courses, more per capita than any other state in Australia.

· Hobart is home to a significant number of nationally known restaurants, boutique alcohol producers, including Sullivans Cove Whiskey, which won world's best single malt in 2014.

· It has some humorously named places! These include ’Granny’s Gut’, ’Eggs and Bacon Bay’, ’Milkshake Hills’, ’Trousers Point’ and ‘Satan’s Lair’. What’s not to love about these?



Whether you’re enticed by the warm southern hospitality, the stunning landscapes, the need to breathe some of the world’s cleanest air or the promise of incredibly fresh and creatively prepared local produce, you need to experience Hobart. Once you have watched the sunrise over the marina waterfront reflecting all the colors of the sky – you’ll be glad you got up early! Normally this would be the Pacific Ocean but in Hobart city it’s the mouth of the Derwent River. The city itself is compact and perfect to explore on foot. Inner suburbs and destinations such as Cascade Brewery, the historic Female Factory and Mt Nelson can be easily accessed by the Metro bus service but further afield you will need to join a tour or hire a vehicle. Whatever catches your fancy on this fascinating island, you will be planning a future return visit.

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Comments

[C.David Williamson]

Tasmania! So much to see and do!
I loved the blog about Tasmania. From the description, a person could easily spend a fortnight taking in the local scenery and vast culture. Do Town has really sparked my interest.

[D MJ Binkley]

The Tassie
The boys are ugly!