Crossing the Nullarbor


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Oceania » Australia » South Australia » Ceduna
October 23rd 2014
Published: October 24th 2014
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We have stopped for a night or two in Ceduna several times, and always struggled to come up with interesting photos and stories. We were lucky on our first visit to meet several aboriginal artists at a training forum.

But when a town has no dominant land marks, interesting rock formations etc, its hard to tell a story. Although coastal, the wind patterns here tend to carry dark cloud out to sea leaving little opportunity for sunset photography. I think we struck it a little lucky this year, even though that dark cloud was on the horizon. Closer there were small breaks in the cloud allowing the sun to paint golden water in the low tide channels of the foreshore.

This is also harvest time for wheat and oats with Ceduna a major rail and shipping centre. The harvest is good again this year, and both in town and in the country side we passed road train after road train bringing in the harvest. The train leaving town was the best part of 3ks long, so it paid not to travel at the wrong time where the railway crossings divided the town.

We were going to have a small repair done to the motorhome bathroom while in Ceduna. We phoned ahead and the agent there was able to identify the part we wanted and we arranged for him to come to the caravan park and fit the seal. He confessed he had never serviced a vacuum toilet system before. We have seen the system dismantled and know that it is tricky rather than hard, but in the end we bought the part and waved him goodbye. If I had my full toolkit with me, I would have done the repair. I think I'll get the job done in Geraldton next month by a service person we met last year who knew exactly what was required.

On the site next to us in Ceduna was a lady, her dog Misty and her motorhome. Well, troubles beset her and the engine died some distance out of Ceduna. The local mechanics could not repair the damage, nor could they locate a second hand motor. So her motor was sent to Adelaide to be rebuilt, and 3 weeks on, it was only just expected back at Ceduna. So, travel in the outback is not always smooth, but we generally find the locals pretty willing to help.

We have experienced all sorts of temperature fluctuations along the way thus far. From biting cold winds when we arrived at Wilpena, to a stinking hot day at Ceduna. The official top was 40.1, but many were reporting 44 or45c. We were in the hottest place in Australia that day.

The journey from Ceduna (SA) to Norseman (WA) is 1200 ks. We have met some folk who have driven for 12 hours to do it in a day. Not us!! First stop was to the Ceduna Bakery. We are guilty of buying very yummy focaccia bread buns and very tasty raspberry topped fruit loaf. That took care of lunch and dinner for day 1 of our journey.

Many folk talk negatively of crossing the Nullarbor. Yes there are long straight sections, and the actual Nullarbor Plain is truly treeless, yet there is always something different. Last trip across we saw many wedge tail eagles, this trip, only one. We saw many galahs this trip, sampling the new seasons grain dropping from the road transporters.

Then there is the huge variety of trucks and oddball loads that you pass. This time we had to get right off the road to let a large tractor unit tow 3 large mobile grain silos past us, rather like a snaking waddling train of wobbly ducks.

Then there are the cyclists, motor cyclists, a guy towing a trolley really doing the hard yards to walk west to east.

The landscape, and particularly the cloud scape also keeps changing. This trip, particularly on day 2 as we headed for Norseman in WA was really quite spectacular.

Oh, I mustn't forget the border crossing between SA and WA. There are quite strict quarantine restrictions on moving fruit, vegies and plant materials interstate. The inspection was pretty thorough, if not rather confronting and over the top. There is a fine line between being vigilant and being belligerent. A few lessons at charm school would not have gone astray. Any way, as we were well ready for the inspection having eaten the last three tomatoes for lunch, we were all clear!

There are many roadside warning signs about wandering animals, wombats, emus, 'roos and camels. Not a one did we see. However, with spring in the air, we had unfortunate encounters with loved up small birds flying without due care and attention. Also warnings about Royal Flying Doctor Service aircraft landing on the road. In a way we were pleased not to see one of those on approach.

It also seems that when you park in off road in the desert, that sooner or later an interesting local critter will pass by. Today we had a golden shingle back lizard wander past. Very cute and the first time we have seen one in this attire.


Additional photos below
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Very wide loadVery wide load
Very wide load

From Dash Cam
Interesting cloudsInteresting clouds
Interesting clouds

From Dash Cam
Road to infinityRoad to infinity
Road to infinity

From Dash Cam
Sharing the roadSharing the road
Sharing the road

From Dash Cam
Off the highwayOff the highway
Off the highway

From Dash Cam
The dark horizonThe dark horizon
The dark horizon

Ceduna Shelly Beach
Spot the originalSpot the original
Spot the original

Misty the dog - a big loving softie.
Bunda CliffsBunda Cliffs
Bunda Cliffs

Nullarbor
Unstable cliffsUnstable cliffs
Unstable cliffs

Plenty of signs urging people to stay off edges. This cracked rock shows why.
Golden Shingle BackGolden Shingle Back
Golden Shingle Back

They are members of the Skink family, but called lizards. Also known as stumpy tail lizards.


24th October 2014

very interesting pics!
And NICE beaches!!!!
24th October 2014

Crossing the Nullarbor
Glad you liked the pics. Not my pick of beaches unless you like breaking your neck. A little earlier in the year, this is a great whale watching coast. The Southern Wright whales give berth here over our winter. They can be seen from the cliff tops Mid May to Late August.
24th October 2014

Crossing the Nullarbor
Glad you liked the pics. Not my pick of beaches unless you like breaking your neck. A little earlier in the year, this is a great whale watching coast. The Southern Wright whales give berth here over our winter. They can be seen from the cliff tops Mid May to Late August.
24th October 2014

Motorhome circumnavigation of Australia and the current trips sound great. I knew only from your mention of Murray river where Les Murray's second name came from. Great poet. I was in Australia in 2007, had a great time.
24th October 2014

Around Australia
Thanks for visiting my blog. I am glad you have enjoyed it.
24th October 2014

Motorhome circumnavigation of Australia and the current trips sound great. I knew only from your mention of Murray river where Les Murray's second name came from. Great poet. I was in Australia in 2007, had a great time.
25th October 2014

Golden shingle back
Thanks for taking me on this trip, am enjoying it immensely , just love the photos---keep well -loved the dog Misty.----Jakii

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