Fraser quest

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There were really only two things I knew about Fraser Island as I arrived at Rainbow Beach in advance of starting my three day trip to the island; first that it was a big sand island and second that people often died there as a result of driving accidents. I'd booked on a self-drive tour, where me and seven others would hire a 4x4 and camp on the island. Luckily, I knew two of my jeep mates - Olie and Leanne, who I'd travelled with through Africa and had since been working in Western Australia. They were moving south from Cairns and we met at Rainbow Beach, so it was great to catch up on eight months of stories. We met the rest of our group (Caroline from England, Tom from Quebec and David, Sophie and Rebecca from Sweden) and had our briefing, which included lots of stern warnings about speeding and a hilarious dingo awareness video (if confronted, cross your arms on your chest and step backwards).

The next morning it was time to go, so we loaded up our jeep, had a five minute crash course on driving on sand, then set out for the ferry. I drove first, and as a 4x4 virgin it was a bit scary heading out onto the sand with seven people on board, but after a few bumpy kilometres I was fine. The main road on Fraser is the eastern beach, a long wide stretch of sand lashed by fierce waves and wind. But the sun was out as we drove north to Lake Wabby - windows down, stereo cranked up and waves chasing us all the way - a fine way to travel! Lake Wabby is a dark green lake set behind a big sandblow, with resident carp and forest behind. After lunch on the beach, we trekked there and cooled off in the dark waters as a few spits of rain started to fall. Our next call was to Eli Creek, a crystal clear, icy cold stream where we encountered our first dingo. Fraser's dingoes are the purest in Australia, and for wild dogs they're very handsome and lean animals. After a short walk down the creek, we resumed our journey north with Caz at the wheel, to see the wreck of the Maheno, an old cruiseliner that ran aground about a hundred years ago. There's not much left now, so after a few photos we left for the K'Gari campsite and set up our tents.

One big night and lots of goon (imagine the sweetest cheap wine, then add sugar) later, Leanne drove us as far north as we'd go, to Indian Head. After admiring the view and wild waves from the tip, we walked north along the beach to the Champagne Pools, and hopefully a cure to our hangovers! The pools are a series of shallow enclosed pools washed over by the waves, creating foam the colour of champagne. Being repeatedly smacked by the fierce waves, white against a black sky, was the perfect hangover cure - as was the free coffee we wangled from one of the day tour buses! Result. Lunch was enjoyed on the beach in fine sunshine, but as we were clearing away a storm came in. We didn't quite have time to pack up before the deluge, so Olie and I hid under the tarp... watched by a hungry dingo eyeing up the scraps of food I was sheltering. Luckily we didn't need to employ our crossed arms, and we made it back into the jeep (after a comedy moment where the wind took hold of the tarp and sent Olie flying!).

Back at camp, there was a nice surprise as I bumped into Nathan, a mate from Byron Bay, and we caught up as we wandered down the beach to a rock formation called the pinnacles. Our campsite was run by an aboriginal family, and on our return they took us into their home to show us a video about their people, the Butchulla, who used to inhabit Fraser (known to them as K'Gari,or 'paradise') before white people kicked them off and near-exterminated them. It was a sad story, and frustrating to learn that they didn't want people to go on Indian Head as it was the site of a massacre of their ancestors. I wish we'd been given the choice to respect their wishes. The women were true characters, uttering random gems as the DVD occasionally froze mid interview ('come on Joyce, spit it out'). A few beers and a great barbecue later, it was time for a chilled game of cards (watched by dingoes, to which Olie screamed DINGO! in an Auzzie accent everytime he saw one) and bed.

Our last day on the island saw us pack up camp and head south along the beach and into the interior, to Central Station. We walked through the lush rainforest, spotting tiny snails and having a game of pooh sticks on a stream, then drove on to Fraser's star attraction - Lake McKenzie. It's an astonishing sight, a crystal clear turqoise lake with a white sand beach in the middle of a rainforest, and we spent a good hour swimming, relaxing and taking some novelty photos. Due to safe driving times on the beach, we then had to make a move to get back to the ferry for 3pm, which we did after a rather bumpy and splashy drive through the forested inland track.

So we made it back safe and sound, our only dodgy moment coming when Caz misread a washout on the beach and took a two-foot drop at about 40kph, sending us crashing down onto the opposite bank. We subsequently learnt that self-drives are being banned on Fraser, which is a shame as it lent a real edge of independence to what is essentially a key part of the Australian backpacker circuit. Time for one last night of drinks and stories at Rainbow Beach (and handling a baby python found in the luggage store) before saying goodbye to Olie and Leanne and getting back in Zak (who felt very light after the jeep!) to resume the drive north.

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Photos

Photo 2
The jeeps primed and ready for action

Photo 6
Dingo!

Photo 15
The gloriously changeable Fraser weather

Photo 21
Olie, Leanne and the driver (photo thanks to Olie Hanson)

Photo 20
In the azure waters of Lake McKenzie (photo thanks to Olie Hanson)

Photo 18
(photo thanks to Olie Hanson)

Photo 19
(photo thanks to Olie Hanson)