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Published: September 17th 2013
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Nitmiluk Gorge
About 30ks out of Katherine After the beauty of Lake Argyle, we headed north to Katherine through quite a mix of country. We intended to spend two or three nights free camping, but as the saying goes - 'It aint 'alf hot here mum!' So one night at Saddle Creek Camp and we headed towards Katherine, checking out a variety of camps along the way to see if we should stay out for another night. But, it was hot and dusty, so we kept on to Katherine and after setting up, into a refreshing swimming pool.
The country side was quite varied with a gentle winding gorge along the Victoria River. David and Mary had told us about the Croc Shop and a river cruise from Timber Creek. All shut up and closed. Not sure if this was a seasonal closure or the business just closed down. Either way, 20 minute refreshment stop at Timber Creek was all it got.
Actually there was a highlight there, the longest road train we have ever seen, delivering fuel to the road house.
Its a while since we discussed the failings of Tom Tom, but he was just testing us for observation when we arrived in
Katherine. Marg Marg had a Katherine Map on her knee and loudly contradicted Tom Tom when he said we should turn left and Marg Marg was adamant that we should turn right. I guess you have heard the marriage rules - 1. Your wife is always right. 2. Even when she is wrong, she is right. No such rule applies to Tom Tom, so I turned right and next left and we were happily headed for the Shady Lane Camping Ground. Tommy would have got us there via Darwin, Rome, London, Paris and Whykikamoocow, but .... Sigh, seems he doesn't know his right hand from his left.
Katherine is HOT. Not much better than the free camps, but this park has great tall trees shading most sites, and a great shaded pool, and probably the best toilet and shower block you will ever find, so it was very convenient shall we say. The tall trees however do seem to attract high altitude roosting birds who have not yet learned about using the excellent facilities.
There was an awful noise early in the morning, bird like but not a sound I could easily identify. However, as the noise grew
louder, we looked out to see a flock, army, squadron, whole battle fleet of guinea fowl pecking around the park. They really could drive one dotty!
Our bucket list item here was to do a cruise up the Nitmiluk Gorge. In days gone by, visitors went up the Katherine Gorge, but that doesn't exist now as the national park and the gorge have returned to their aboriginal names. The park has been returned to its people, and managed by parks and wild life. Marg was keen to do a breakfast tour at 7.00am. I was keen to do the Sunset Dinner Cruise. About that marriage rule above, I dared to break it. Well, as it happened, the sunset and dinner cruise coincided with the 46th anniversary of our engagement. What a let off!!!
The cruise of the evening is magic. There are 13 sections to the Nitmiluk Gorge. Our cruise went to the first two. There is about a 600 meter walk between sections (good paths) including passing some very ancient aboriginal rock art.
As we are at the end of the dry season, the river is pretty much at its lowest flow rate. At the peak
of the wet season the river is about 15 meters higher and zooms down the gorge at a rate of many knots. Fill Sydney Harbour several times over each day when in full flood.
I'll let the gorge photos tell the story, but I would recommend to anyone to go. The meal is great, our guide/boat skipper was one of the local tribe folk and really looked after us well. Now have you tried Cream of Crocodile Soup? Excellent!
Did we strike a fantastic sunset? No. But are the colours of the gorge in the evening fantastic? YES!!
Progress from here will be to Darwin via Litchfield National Park.
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Mkum & Dad
non-member comment
Looking good
Another good blog liked the photos and the comment. Inviting water but crocs would make it risky. The locals did not seem to mind though.