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Published: February 6th 2013
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There is a heat wave forecasted with a fire warning. Rather than drive in high risk regions we instead stay in Bermagui and give kayaking a try. We get into singles and first head towards the coast. We turn around before we reach the waves, and realize the reason we got near the mouth of the river so quickly is because we had a tail wind and the tide, which we suddenly need to fight. Progress is slow, and the wind kicks up so strongly that the sail affect of the paddles makes a large impact and there is risk of capsizing. I can see the approaching wind as it roughens the surface of the water and learn to fear it. I try not paddling at all during the gusts but it just turns me around and undoes minutes of hard paddling in seconds. The only way is to keep paddling. The distance we had taken 10 minutes to traverse now takes us 30. Eventually a man swimming reminds us to paddle close to shore to avoid the tidal flow, but even so, the wind is so strong there is no interest left to stay in the water, and we drag
the kayaks back to the River Rock cafe where we rented them from, and we settle there for the rest of the morning. The proprietor assures us the high wind will continue for the rest of the morning, as it appears to be a usual occurence. We comfort ourselves with books and milkshakes, fresh juices, and delicious salads.
By midday there is a dark high cloud of smoke originating from a brush fire further inland, casting an ominous pall on the otherwise sunny coastal town. The hot weather has sparked numerous fires and our way to Sydney is closed both via the inland and coastal routes. Itching to move on, we deduce Batemans Bay is a safe stopping point and continue driving. We only stop at a lookout in Narooma, and at a beach on the way to Batemans Bay.
In Batemans Bay there are plenty of hotels and thankfully sufficient vacancy signs. We stay away from the city center across the fun fair and have really good thai food for dinner.
The next day as we wait for the Princes Hwy to open, we take a leisurely breakfast, peruse the used bookstore. Finally when the highway
does open midday, we continue up the coast. We stop at a magical place with lots of tidal pools. The rocky coast itself is unremarkable but the tidal pools are like numerous little experimental ecosystems. The pools closer to the sea are full of colorful seaweed and the occasional anemone. As the pools are farther from the water the less life are in them. A couple of crabs live up from the surf under a rock in a sparser pool. They must get warmer and salter as the sun hits the black rocks. A few smaller pools are graveyards. We also visit Black Head off from Gerroa. There is a wide flat step below the cliff that is above low tide but likely creeps below water level at high tide. Black Head extends out beyond a pile of black rocks with a colony of birds at the point. We rock hop as far as we can, and then return back to the car via the plateau. We bask in the sea salt air and the rushing crushing surf pounding the edge of the step.
In Sydney we find a room at a hotel off Glebe Point Road, which turns
out to be a great affordable place. the rooms have hard wood floors with balconies, kettles, fridge, even a dvd player with a dvd library downstairs. Glebe Point Road has many great looking ethnically diverse restaurants. Also, along our way into town we notice that Newtown is a great happening road. We celebrate making it to Sydney with great Japanese food and ice cream.
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