nausicaa

My final resting place today is in Belluno, which lies at the start of the impressive Dolomite mountain range. We had been looking forward to mountain air and views. Unfortunately, luck was not with me, and I took a tumble on the ferry trip to the airport having missed a step, which has left me hobbling around with a sprained foot. I'm in no condition to walk up and down steep trails. What that means, is hopefully my backlog of blog entries will finally be published. I initially fought my fate, dreaming up plans to go up ski lifts or to buy crutches, but everything I might do is short of a proper walk, and I'm better off promising myself to return to this rugged country, and to make a date with the computer.... read more

Goodbye lovely Florence, hello exquisite Venice. From the moment the train seemingly skims over the water to pull into Venezia St Lucia, it is apparent that the city likes to make entrances. You never know what might lie around the next corner, though it is a sure bet in some areas that you will have high frequency of mask, fine glasswork, or jewelry shops. Our mediocre hotel is on the edge of the Cannaregio district, and we walk down the winding alleyways and across bridges towards Piazza San Marco, passing numerous touristy shops, pausing to watch the expert glass blower make shimmery scarabs with delicate spindly legs. I'd be tempted to buy one if I thought it would survive transport. Past many familiar chain clothing stores, with throngs of people on the main commercial street we ... read more

I hadn't meant to devote my day to the Giro, but Ischia basically shut down to everything except the race. Buses were not serving any part of the island where the race was for the whole day apparently. So, I was stranded, but that made the day easier. Ischia is a sweet resort town, with thermal spas which we unfortunately couldn't visit easily. We instead walk in the shopping district, eat gelato, and partake of the crowds. This was a team time trial, so each team starts together on their own, spaced 3 minutes apart. A row of young ladies stand on the stage, and their job is to hold the bikes while the cyclists perch at attention on their bikes on the countdown. Further down the road a policeman on a motorcycle waits until given ... read more

One of the most enticing thing listed in the online "top things to do in Naples", aside from eating awesome pizza, are the the underground tours. There are Roman cisterns turned war bunker, and the foundations of the Roman era city. We do both in the morning. Both tours are in the old town, with its tall apartments towering over narrow cobblestone alleys. We hit upon the trinkets alley along the way and see numerous themes: red pepper ornaments, ornaments with fools in black masks, "calamites" which are miniature cones (simplified cornucopias?) filled with pasta or miniatures of bread, grain, or bingo pieces (presumably for good luck), and depictions of religious themes. As I discover from a vendor, there are three things that are good luck in Naples: red peppers, horseshoes, and a humpback (!). What ... read more

The photos can speak for themselves. Wander the streets, you will see art. I particularly love Fitzroy. I only saw a few museums, but I can recommend the National Gallery and the ACMI. Mostly free with high quality exhibitions. The National Gallery is a beautiful space, with the water wall and the stained glass ceiling the highlights for me. I also love how they promote art as accessible, with their doodle pad at the entrance, and and the drawing session I stumbled upon, where numerous people sat in a room with a lecturer with paper and pencils provided. Really enjoyed the Candice Breitz exhibit at the ACMI - fun and poignant video installations. In other parts of Federation Square we found other striking art - the woodsy constructs of Patrick Dougherty, and in the main square ... read more