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As we drove down the Princes Highway early on Friday morning, the rain splattered down the windscreen and the sky was a dark shade of grey. But it was a long weekend, and we didn’t mind the weather, for we were going on an adventure in to an unknown region of NSW. We’d only ever ventured as far as Wollongong on the South Coast, so you can imagine how pleasantly surprised we were by the scenery and surroundings as we travelled further away from Sydney and then Wollongong, in to the Shoalhaven region. It is a very scenic drive and we were taken by the real countryside charm of villages liked Berry, where we couldn’t resist a stop off on the way back for coffee and chocolate brownies with whipped cream and yes, you guessed it, berries.
But back to our adventure. The last few kilometres of our journey south to the start of our hike in Murramarang National Park, took us down an unsealed road to the Pretty Beach campsite. The very helpful ranger checked us in and even convinced us to buy an annual National Parks pass, so apparent was our enthusiasm for wanting to explore all the
national parks in NSW! Murramarang National Park stretched down the coastline and includes several protected islands off shore.
We paid our $10 per person for camping, which is nothing when you see how great the facilities are - clean bathrooms, showers and big rain water tanks. We tied on the last few appendages to our backpacks ( please don’t check our packs, but rather see the photos as an indication of how not to pack a pack!) By the time we set off on our 13km hike from Pretty Beach via Pebbly Beach, the sun was out, the sky was blue, and oh well, you’ll see by the photos how stunning the setting was. At Pebbly beach the local kangaroos can be found grazing on the grass near the beach and in amongst the tents in the camp ground.
We were in high spirits and although our packs weighed a ton, mine I think about half my body weight, we were determined to take the coastal route as the tide was low and the rocky ledges were all too tempting. Indeed the majority of the walk was along rocks and pristine sandy beaches, but for pebbly beach which
amazingly is made up of mounds of millions and trillions of pebbles. It is an amazing thing to see, as the pebbles are all smooth and shiny from years of being polished together by the waves. Walking on them makes a sound like applause in a stadium. It is pretty tough going too with 22kgs on your back!
As we rounded each headland, yet another amazing beach and turquoise blue water would meet our eyes. The last part of the four hour walk took us through beautiful subtropical rainforests and spotted gum trees. We saw kangaroos by the dozen, an albatross, sea eagles, friendly kookaburras and lots of beautifully coloured parrots. Having not been born in Australia, it is still a novelty to us to see these birds flying free.
At Depot Beach camp ground we were met by yet another friendly ranger, and after the usual couple’s quarrel about which would be the best camping site, we settled on one in the far corner of the park, under tall trees and in a shady spot. It was a relief to take the packs off and it didn’t take long to set up our tent and have a
hot shower before heading off to explore the surrounding forests. It wasn’t quite warm enough for a swim, in fact the evening air was cool, but the sunset was exquisite and we managed to walk up and over the headland to catch a glimpse of Durras Lake before darkness set in. It’s a strange thing working by torch light, and on the camp site, once it was dark, it is each to their own - torch light that is. We spent a while making dinner of pasta, baby marrow, tomato and basil and laughing at how early it was to be eating dinner and heading for bed. But after a long week at work and a good day of hiking, the fresh sea air and all the beautiful surroundings sent us to slumber by eight pm!
Next morning we woke as the sun rose pink over the sea, and I got the billy on for tea. I have learnt that whilst camping it is best to multi task, as things take a little longer thank usual and require patience. So whilst the kettle boiled we rolled up the sleeping mats and re packed our packs, then settled for a
hot cup of tea and a bowl of muesli. It’s funny how powdered milk can taste so good in the bush!
The next stage of our walk was to head up and over Mt Durras, which is in fact just under 300m high, but the ascent takes about 45 mins, and gives you a decent workout when coupled with 20kgs on your back. The path took us through forests of towering gum trees and lime green ferns. As we reached the top of Mt Durras, the surroundings changed once more to reveal grassy plains, old water tanks and the odd table and chairs, remnants from a time when the land was part of a dairy farm, one passing walker told us.
The descent was enjoyable after a long, hot climb and we walked in to Pretty Beach camp ready to spend the rest of the day relaxing. We decided that the only way we would go for a swim, would be immediately, with no hesitation, whilst we were still hot and sweaty. So we threw off our sweaty hiking gear and packs, quickly pulled on our bathers and ran down the grassy slopes to the sea for a
refreshing dip in the cold, but crystal clear water. The soft sand and warm sun teased us and tempted us to spend the afternoon sleeping on the beach, but we wanted to explore some more, and this time hopped in the car to take a drive to Bateman’s Bay about 21kms south of Pretty Beach. We felt quite guilty getting in the car as we’d just experienced two days of what it is like to carry everything you need in a pack and to feel like you really are experiencing nature and being self sufficient. So we didn’t spend long in town as it wasn’t all that appealing, the usual high street shops and cafes.
Back at camp we set up our tent once more, this time choosing a spot with more grass and less mud. This time I missed out on a hot shower as I was all stripped down and ready to jump under the water when I inserted my 20 cent piece in to the little coin operated hot water tank, and when the hot water didn't appear, realised this camp site charged a dollar! There was no way I was putting all my clothes back
on and trekking back to the tent to find a dollar coin, so freezing cold water had to suffice and I hope it did my muscles some good, because the rest of me as frozen and I proceeded to put on every piece of clothing I had in my pack to try and thaw out!
Dinner was laksa followed by fried banana topped with dark chocolate - why is it that such decadent food seems so guilt free when you are camping? It’s almost like the usual rules don’t apply out in the bush! Once again we were early to bed after reading for a while in the light of our head lamps, although I haven’t yet mastered the right position for doing this as my elbows tend to give in before my eyes do.
Time seems to stand still when you’re out in natural surroundings and taking in the amazing scenery and spectacular landscapes. There is something really exciting about going to places you’ve never been or ever heard of until a few days before. The sense of adventure, discovery and the challenge of seeing whether you can indeed survive with everything in a backpack for a
couple of nights, is worth a few blisters and quarrels over which is the right path to take!
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Tommy Ballantyne
non-member comment
blog is the best
What a brilliant piece of prose and picture - you make me feel like I want to there more than anywhere else in the world . . . can it be so pristine and as wonderful as it looks?! And so accessible if you live in Australia - where you are so fortunate to be . . . we miss Mosman and Balmoral Beach and the Great Kepple Island where we spent so much time with you two last year . . . Dad xxx