JOHNNY'S JOURNEYS: ST. AUGUSTINE, SAVANNAH, CHARLESTON 2010

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JOHNNY'S JOURNEYS: ST. AUGUSTINE, SAVANNAH, CHARLESTON 2010


May 24, 2010 (Monday)

Gasoline fill-up, vacuum and a car wash. She's a shiner. Three dogs and two cats are taken to the

kennel. Go see my in-laws and say good-bye. I think we are ready to roll. Time for our trip to the

Atlantic coast. Motel reservations, itinerary, travel plans, etc. are tucked away in my envelope. I write

3 S on it for SSSt. Augustine, SSSavannah and CharleSSSton. (pretty clever, huh?) It is a little after

noon as we cross into the Sunshine state of Florida. Always stop at the Welcome Center for a cup of

free, fresh Florida orange juice. Time for lunch and we go to a restaurant we have not visited before:

Beef O'Brady's Family Sports Pub in Pensacola. It had a fun atmosphere and I think we could go back

there again. Bethany wants a Starbucks coffee before we return to Interstate-10.

We drive across Escambia Bay and it is beautiful. We shall travel on I-10 for a few hundred miles.

Bethany takes the wheel at 3:40. My 15 year old daughter is now driving. This is a first for me. Must

have stopped at every rest stop to stretch our legs and find the “You Are Here” spot on the map. And

we let Bethany drive for over an hour, until it starts to rain. And she did a good job too.

We pass Live Oak and stop at a Huddle House for supper. I set up the Tom-Tom GPS unit before

we enter Jacksonville. Enjoy the spectacular skyline and cross the blue lights bridge over the St. Johns

River. We arrive at St. Augustine about 11:45 p.m. as we reach the La Quinta Inn. This is our longest

day of traveling. Ready for a good nights sleep.


May 25, 2010 (Tuesday)

It felt good to sleep late today, then enjoy the continental breakfast. We are ready to start our

Atlantic adventure. The best way to see St. Augustine is with an Old Town Trolley Tour. This is

located next to the Old Jail and the Florida Heritage Museum. There are 20 stops along the 75 minute

tour. The guide is very informative and there is unlimited on-off boarding. Here we go: the Old Jail, Gator Bob's Trading Post and the St. Augustine History Museum; the Welcome Center; Old Drug Store

and Tolomato Cemetery; Visitors Information Center; City Gates, St. George Street (with historic

walking mall), Spanish Quarter and Oldest Wooden School House; Bay View at the Monterey and

carriage rides; Hypolita and St. George Street; Grace United Methodist Church; Flagler Memorial Pres-

byterian Church; San Sebastian Winery; Villa Zorayda Museum; Lightner Museum and Flagler

College; Dow Museum of Historic Homes; Plaza de la Constitucion, Government House and Cathedral

Basilica of St. Augustine; Potter's Wax Museum, Black Raven, Spanish Military Hospital, Ximinez-

Fatio House; Oldest House and Fernandez Llambias House; Castillo de San Marcos; Ghosts and

Gravestones Tour; Uptown San Marco; Mission of Nombre de Dios and Shrine of Our Lady of La

Leche; the Old Senator; and finally the Fountain Of Youth.

The Village Inn Restaurant on Pounce de Leon Blvd. seems like a good stop for lunch. What we see

on the menu pleases Bethany...Boca burgers. Wow, vegetarian food. What more could we ask for?

Very good eating and the pies are delicious.

We'll get back on the trolley and visit the authentic Old Drugstore. It was built in 1739 and contains

a museum and thousands of old bottles. What a thrill! There is an Herbs and Remedies store in there

now. And Janet likes that.

Th next trolley pick-up takes us to the Oldest Wooden Schoolhouse. Built in 1716 (or earlier) as a

private home, it became a school in 1788. The schoolmaster and his wife lived upstairs, above the small

classroom. Under the stairs is a tiny little room, known as the dungeon. Unruly children are placed

there. The walls are made of bald cypress and red cedar, which are held together by wooden pins and

iron spikes. The kitchen is separated from the wooden school building. Not only a precaution against

fire but also to cut down on the excess heat. Out back there is a lovely courtyard which includes a

Grove of Educators of the Americas. There are statues of leaders from different countries of the

Americas. This was dedicated in 1948. Very enjoyable... and historic.

Strolling along the pedestrian walkway on St. George Street, there were just so many old buildings
to see. In one little shop, we bought some chocolate truffles. Visited an Irish souvenir store, and talked

about our 2007 trip over there. Went to Harry's restaurant for supper and were seated in a breezy court-

yard. Finished eating just as the rain began. Afterward as we walked along San Marco Ave. we saw

the fort. We'll go see that tomorrow.

Reaching the Ripley's Believe It Or Not Museum, we have about 20 minutes to admire the 17 foot

tall replica of Michaelangelo's sculpture of David. There is such incredible anatomical detail of the

human body, especially the right hand. The original is in Florence, Italy and I almost got to see it in

1985. There are only two full scale replicas on the planet.

At 8:00 we join a Ghosts and Gravestones Tour along the “haunted” sites of the city. We passed a

few cemeteries and hotels and heard a recollection of ghost stories. The tour ended at the Old Jail.

Walking inside the dark building, our guide had to leave us and go retrieve a flashlight. We were

entertained by an “inmate” dressed in black and white striped clothes. He told us many stories about

their treatment and the 8 hangings which occurred out back at the gallows. It was enlightening!


May 26, 2010 (Wednesday)

I'm up at 6:45 and recharge the camera batteries. We eat a continental breakfast and leave the room

around 10:30. We drive across the Lion's Bridge and onto Anastasia Island. Oh how we love to visit a

Florida lighthouse. And there is a museum to see also. Built in 1874, Bethany and I take on 219 circular

steps until we reach the top. What a view from there! We see Janet down below on a shady bench.

Did I mention how breezy it was? Wind gusts are at 32 mph. Took several pictures. Again, it was a

spectacular view. We have to purchase a few souvenirs before exiting.

Bethany was ready for another Boca burger, so we went back to the Village Inn restaurant for lunch.

I had a chicken parmesan plate, while Janet tried a chicken avocado sandwich. For dessert, we order

a slice of their world famous pies: Boston cream pie, strawberry rhubarb and coconut cream. It was so

good. We drive back to our room with take-out boxes and return to the downtown area at around 2:00.

Now it's time to tour the Castillo de San Marco National Monument. What an imposing fort it is. We

look into each of the rooms and imagine how life was, 300 years ago. In the theater, there is a movie

that tells of the history of the fort. Construction began in 1672 and was completed 23 years later in

1695. The Spaniards used coquina to build the walls. Coquina is a natural limestone composed of

broken shells, that solidifies into a mass when mixed with sand and cement. The fort was originally

built by the Spanish, then ruled by the British, then held by the Spanish troops again.

Now we drive a few blocks to the Gonzalez-Alvarez house. It is known as the Oldest House in

St. Augustine. There is time for a nice stroll through the lovely sub-tropical garden as we await our

guided tour. Beginning about 1650, a succession of thatched wooden structures were their homes. This

coquina stone house was built soon after the English burned St. Augustine in 1702. It was originally a

one story rectangle with two rooms. It was occupied by the Spanish, British and Americans. A wooden

second story, an off-street porch and other features were added. There is a museum on the complex.

Also, a walkway is lined with several full-sized statues. We see tiles of Pedro Aviles: Founder of St.

Augustine 1565; Patrick Tonyn: Gov. of Florida 1774-1783; and Osceola: Seminole Indian War Leader

Captured 1838. This is a very pleasant view.

One of our brief stops earlier was the San Sebastian Winery. Now it is time for a wine-tasting.

There were 17 adults that participated. We sampled about 8 varieties. When finished, we decided upon

four souvenir bottles. Had to talk about a previous wine-tasting at the Biltmore House in Ashville, NC.

The three of us drove up Hwy. A1A for several miles. Found a parking lot to stop at. Got out and

watched the waves roaring in from the Atlantic. Bethany has to get her feet wet, whether it is a stream,

creek or an ocean.

We arrive back at our room about 7:30. I go swimming, while Janet and Bethany go visit the nearby

outlet shopping mall. For supper we have leftovers from lunch. I'm not successful connecting to the

internet, so we hit the beds at 10:30.


May 27, 2010 (Thursday)

I'm up at 6:30 and go get coffee for the two girls. Enjoy another continental breakfast. There are 2

computers for guests in the lobby. And I send a few birthday greetings to friends on Facebook. Our

first stop this morning is the Mission of Nombre De Dios. Bethany and I walk past the museum down

to the Lady of the Lake. It was on this site that Pedro Aviles and crew landed on September 8, 1565.

Aviles kissed a wooden cross, presented to him by the chaplain of the expedition. On these grounds,

the first parish Mass was celebrated. There is a 208-feet tall cross at the edge of the lake. It was erected

to honor the 400th anniversary of the original landing. Very nice. Also located here are a chapel, church

and shrine. Archeological excavations are ongoing.

Our hi-light this morning is a trip to the Fountain of Youth. I passed by here as a college student, and

always wanted to come back for an extensive tour. We drove down a beautiful Spanish moss covered

oak-lined street, until we reached the gates. Ponce de Leon claimed all this land for Spain in 1513. His

encounter with the Timucua Indians occurred almost 500 years ago.

The first stop is a drink from the Legendary Spring that has flowed under this site forever. There is a

sign by it touting: This spring was discovered in 1513 and was recorded a landmark in a Spanish grant.

Dozens of paper cups are filled with this water, for the tourists to enjoy. Lots of sulfur and tasty

minerals in the water! That would be the secret to a youthful life.

Peacocks roam freely on the 15 acres. There is an interesting Indian exhibit. Native Indians

inhabited this site for almost 3000 years. In the theater, we watched a ten minute film called “New

World.” There is a two story high glowing Discovery Globe that traces the routes of Spanish

exploration in the New World. There is a planetarium that teaches about the stars and constellations.

Tables under the oak trees beckon you to a picnic. You can visit an archeology exhibit or walk to the

waters edge and observe an oyster reef plus hundreds of small crabs at low-tide. I even found a metallic

clump of something. Maybe an ancient archeological treasure?

Our last planned stop is at the Florida Historical Museum (part of our 3-day ticket tour). However,

there must have been 75 children from a field trip that were there. I think our time here is over and I

drive for awhile until we reach east Jacksonville. There is just something about seeing water when you

enter another city. It is beautiful. Our lunchtime stop is at the German Schnitzel Haus on Atlantic Blvd.

It is the only German restaurant in northeast FL. Since Janet and I have been to Germany on two

separate occasions, we always enjoy an opportunity to visit an authentic German restaurant. Several

pictures of the old country upon the wall. And a few posters of the upcoming World Cup soccer games.

Thoroughly enjoyed the weinerschnitzel and chatting with the German speaking owner before we left.

Our next stop is for Bethany. She and Janet “need” to go shopping at Delia's at The Avenues Mall.

Fashionable clothes for teenage girls. I think I waited almost 2 hours for them. But they had a blast

and made some good selections. They were pleased, so I was too.

We now cross over the Georgia state line and head for Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. The

place closes in about 30 minutes. So, we will just have to come back tomorrow. The GPS unit is

plugged in as we drive toward Brunswick. There was an incredibly stunning full moon on the horizon

and I tried to follow it onto Jekyl Island. Bethany and I got some excellent pictures of the moon's

reflections in the water. Gorgeous! We all were amused at the GPS pronunciation of Jekyl Island. It

sounded like “Gee-kel.”

We finally find our Baymont Inn hotel for the night and check-in. Across the road is a Denny's and

that seems like a good place for supper. There is a bowling alley attached to it, and with high school

graduation, the place was packed. Into bed about 11:30.



May 28, 2010 (Friday)

Breakfast at 8:30 at the Baymont Breakfast Corner included scrambled eggs and sausage. Check out

about 10:45 and do some backtracking to Okefenokee NWR. Pay our $5 fee and we're on our way.

If someone has lots of time, this looks like a great area for a canoe or kayak adventure trip. The

refuge encompasses about 400,000 acres and extends about 38 miles by 25 miles. The Native American

name, Okefenokee, means “land of the trembling earth.” Peat deposits, up to 15 feet thick, cover much

of the swamp floor. The slow moving waters of the Okefenokee are tea colored, due to tannic acid

released from decaying vegetation. The Suwannee River originates in the heart of the Okefenokee and

is the principal outlet of the swamp. The swamp contains numerous islands and lakes, plus prairies

which cover about 60,000 acres. This is one of the most well preserved fresh water areas in America.

On our agenda this morning is to travel the 8-mile Swamp Island Drive. Scattered throughout the

drive are walking trails, wildlife openings, and total quietness from the human race. One of the high-

lights was a visit to the Chesser Island Homestead. The site was settled by the W.T. Chesser family in

the late 1800's. They lived a rugged existence; ate what they could shoot, trap, catch and grow on the

sandy soil. Cash crops were usually sugar cane, tobacco and turpentine. The 4-bedroom, yellow-pine

house was built in 1927 and features a bathtub on the back porch (built for $200). Outbuildings include

a smokehouse, syrup shed, hog pen, chicken coop and corn crib. The yard is free of all vegetation, to

reduce fire danger and increase visibility of snakes.

We continue our journey along the ¾ mile Swamp Walk trail. The wooden boardwalk winds through

dense swamp growth, open prairie and ponds. There are green, blue, black and yellow dragon-flies to

view. Several covered areas with benches were great spots to listen to the wildlife and catch a breeze.

At one of the gator holes, we saw two large yellow eyes staring our way. I always enjoy seeing pitcher

plants and there are thousands here. Looked at lillypads, long-leaf pine and cypress trees and sawtooth

palmettos. Observed the results of the 2007 wildfire.

There are too many bugs, mosquitoes and yellow flies for us to fully enjoy the beauty of this place,

but we tried. At the end of the boardwalk trail, we climb the 50 foot tall Owl's Roost Tower. The trees

around us are thick with Spanish moss. We look out over Seagrove Lake and photograph 2 or 3 more

alligators. We saw wading egrets at the waters edge and see a few blue heron fly by. The Chesser

Prairire stretches out before us as we thoroughly appreciate being in the “middle of nowhere”. This is
such a peaceful place. We stop and rest a few more times on our way back. Look at the anole lizards

and frogs. Surprised we did not see any snakes.

After an excellent adventure in the marshy wilderness , we arrive at the visitor center and have a few

sandwiches for lunch. Large windows give us a nice view of the boat launch. A couple of souvenirs

and we are on our way out.

Bethany did some more driving as we drove the backroads. Drive I-95 north to the outskirts of

Savannah. We are staying at the La Quinta Inn at Pooler for the next three nights.



May 29, 2010 (Saturday)

I'm up at 6:30 and buy more ice before breakfast. We're on our way about 10 a.m. We have decided to

take the Oglethorpe Trolly Tour. Excited about our 90 minute tour of Historic Downtown Savannah.

And it includes unlimited off-and-on stops. There are 15 stops along the tour. When the city was laid

out in 1733, there were 24 square blocks designated for the public. There are 22 that remain today.

These green oases include monuments, statues, fountains, obelisks, benches to enjoy the activities,

and hundreds of Spanish moss draped oak trees.

There are 45 sites highlighted on our map. 1: Savannah Visitor's Center; Sav. History Museum and

Civic Center, Roundhouse Railroad Museum, R.M. Gilbert Civil Rights Museum. 2: Juliette Gordon

Low (founder of the Girl Scouts) Birthplace; Independent Presbyterian Church, Chippewa Square.

3: Sorrel-Weed House / Madison Square; Green-Meldrum House, Temple Mickve Israel, Mrs. Wilkes

Boarding House, St. John's Episcopal Church. 4: Forsyth Park: Confederate and Spanish-American

War Memorials, Victorian District, GA Historical Society and Forsyth Fountain. 5: Cathedral of St.

John; Flannery O'Connor House, first Girl Scout headquarters, Colonial Park Cemetery, Andrew Low

House. 6: Davenport House; Kehoe House, Telfair's Owens-Thomas House. 7: Lucas Theatre; John

Wesley Monument, Savannah Walks, Christ Church. 8: The Pirates' House; Colonial District, Rainbow

Row, International Seaman's House, Chatham Artillery Monument, Vietnam Veterans Monument and
Celtic Cross Monument. 9: The Marriott Riverfront; Riverwalk access to River Street, Waving Girl

Statue, Olympic Torch, Water Taxi. 10: City Market; shops, restaurants, galleries, museums, winery

and Jepson Center for the Arts. 11: West River Street; shops and restaurants, River Street Trolley Shop

Gifts, Chart House. 12: Central River Street; River Street Riverboat, Cotton Exchange, Historic Sav.

Carriage, elevators to Bay Street and hotels. 13: East River Street; shops and restaurants, Ghosts and

Gravestones Tour. 14: Franklin Square; First African Baptist Church, Ships of the Sea Museum, hotels,

shops and galleries. 15: Welcome Center; lodging, meal and activity info., Paula Deen Tour. Just

couldn't get photos of everything. Will look for a book (with colored pictures) tomorrow. Beautiful!!!

Today was graduation day at S.C.A.D. There were hundreds of proud grads and family members all

over the downtown area. The Savannah College of Art and Design is the most comprehensive art and

design university in the world. Seemed like a festival atmosphere.

We got off at River Street and it is lunch time. So many places to choose from, but we settle upon

The Shrimp Factory. The building was originally a cotton warehouse, completed in 1826. The exposed

old bricks and wooden plank floors gave the place a fun feel. I had looked at the menu on its web-site

and Janet and I had already decided on a kettle of Pine Bark Stew. The five ingredients included crab,

shrimp, flounder, oysters, scallops, Southern bouillabaisse with potatoes, onions and seasoning. Today's

recipe now leaves out the pine bark. We were served salad and blueberry muffins along with honey

bourbon pecan butter. I think we shall remember this delicious meal for a long time.

Janet gives me the map to plan our walk. We are just a few blocks away from the Pirate's House. Is

it haunted? Some folks think so. We leisurely walk to several of the small squares. The shuttle bus takes

us to Madison Square. Wanted to visit the Shamrock Shop. Found a few nice souvenirs in there. At 5:20

the shuttle pickup takes us back to the Visitor Center parking lot. This has been a very pleasant trip

back to the early days of Savannah.

7:00 and we're on our way to Molly MacPherson's Scottish Pub. It is a 15 mile drive from our motel

to Richmond Hill. Bethany chooses the cheese pizza. Janet and I start with meat pies and cock-a-leeky
soup. Then we enjoy Scottish Meatloaf and Shepherd's Pie. A couple of Harp beers add to the setting.

Dessert called for bread pudding and Edinburgh Delight with French vanilla ice-cream, raspberry pre-

serves, chocolate vodka sauce and whipped cream. What a feast! We mostly talked about our 2005 trip

to Scotland and its wonderful memories.

There is an ATA studio in the same shopping center. Bethany wanted a picture at the door of the

American Tae-Kwon-Do Association facility. My little black-belt was some kind of pleased.


May 30, 2010 (Sunday)

This seemed like a good day to sleep in, but I am up at 7. Need to go stand in line for reservations to

Paula Deen's restaurant. There seem to be hundreds of people waiting in line outside “The Lady and

Sons”. Stayed in line for about 90 minutes, but I think it will be well worth it. Drive back to the room

and we leave about 12 noon.

Our destination today is Wormsloe Historical Site. This was the colonial estate of Noble Jones. He

arrived with James Oglethorpe and the first group of settlers from England in 1733. Wormsloe's tabby

ruins are the oldest standing structures in Savannah. The one mile drive down the “Avenue of Live

Oaks” is very impressive. There are 400 Spanish-moss draped oak trees, planted in 1890, which line

the path. In spots, the canopy blocks out the sun. It is easy to take dozens of pictures here, which we do.

The tabby wall ruins surround the site of the colonial era house. Alas, there is no mansion or house

to visit, for it fell apart about 150 years ago. There are nature trails that lead to the saltwater marsh. On

the property is a grave-site and a colonial life area. A costumed reenactor “blacksmith” was at work

today. We visited the small cabin, with its sparse furnishings: a fireplace, large wooden kitchen table,

and two benches. A narrow ladder led us up to the small second floor, where the beds were located. A

museum offers insight into the estate, the families that lived there and what vegetables and fruits were

grown. Such an interesting archeology to the place. It was a wonderful side trip.

We will have just enough time to arrive at Paula Deen's for our 4:15 reservation. Our family is

ushered into the Paula Deen Store for a few minutes. Looking for a cookbook or souvenir? All sorts

of gadgets, sauces, products, etc. to help anyone in the kitchen. About ten minutes later, our host seats

us at our first floor table, not far from the food.

Sunday's buffet includes: Southern fried chicken, BBQ pork, cream corn, yellow rice, creamed

potatoes, okra and tomatoes, lima beans, yams, green beans, mac and cheese, collard greens, biscuits,

gravy and the salad bar. It took two trips, but I successfully enjoyed some of everything that was

offered. For dessert, we could have banana pudding, peach cobbler or gooey butter cakes. Yum, it was

outstanding!!

The location, at 102 W. Congress Street, is located inside the old White Hardware Building. There

are 330 seats inside this 200 year old site. All are invited to experience home cooking, Southern

hospitality, and good times! Oh yes. And when we return to Savannah, we're coming back here.

Back inside the car, we drive east for 18 miles to Tybee Island. Tybee means “salt” to the Native

Americans. The big draw for this small barrier island is a three-mile long beach. Saw a few large kites,

then enjoyed looking for sea shells. Even found a few sharks teeth. There was a huge freighter slowly

going by...to an unknown Atlantic destination. The sand was firm and there was a strong breeze. I read

with interest the sign about Loggerhead Sea Turtles. Only one in 3000 hatchlings will survive. So sad.

Our last stop is the historic Tybee Island Light Station. The first lighthouse was built at this site in

1736. This is now the fourth lighthouse here (built in 1916) and was recently renovated. Too bad it was

closed, for I would have loved climbing the 178 steps to the top. This has been a fun day, as we join

lots of holiday traffic, leaving the island.


May 31, 2010 (Monday)

Today is Memorial Day and we check out at 10:30. By 11 a.m. we are in South Carolina. Our first

stop is the Welcome Center where we snap a few pictures of the South Carolina sign. Soon, we drive

onto Hilton Head Island. This place looks nice! At the Visitors Center, there are dozens of brochures to

entice us. Our motel room is not ready, so we go to the Coligny Plaza for lunch. Find a little place

called Frosty's Closet. Janet and I had a chili dog and a Dinghy burger For our young vegetarian, she

had the No Bark hot-dog (cute).

Afterward, we check into the Quality Inn for a one night stay. And we nap for a couple of hours.

Bethany now wants to go shopping at the Coligny Plaza. They look at teenager stuff, while I buy a few

souvenirs. All that shopping and they have worked up an appetite.

At the Steamer Seafood Co., we are seated at an outside deck table, near the duck pond. There are

several sculptures around the pond and a water fountain. This has been rated the island's most popular

family seafood restaurant. Had to try the Carolina Crab-cakes. Janet enjoyed the Shrimp Creola, while

Bethany ordered the Alfredo Fettucini.

What I will remember about this restaurant, other than the WONDERFUL food, is the extensive

beer menu. There are over 250 beers from around the world! Of course, when you think of Irish beer,

Guinness comes to mind. But other countries represented included: Guatemala, Sri Lanka, Kenya, Fin-

land, Laos, Russia, Brazil, Thailand, and Lebanon. Hey, I liked reading all these countries' names.

We were able to find an open public parking lot on this holiday. Walked down to the busiest beach

on the island, Coligny Beach. Lots of amenities...very well kept up. There are several tiles along the

walkway, featuring dolphins, sea turtles and large birds. Soon we had our feet in the Atlantic Ocean.

Not many seashells to speak of, but I did find a few shark teeth. This turned out to be one of our best

days.


June 1, 2010 (Tuesday)

Up at 6:45. Our plans are to go to Flamingo's design-your-own Doughnut Shop. Place your order,

then your “gourmet” doughnuts are prepared. As Bethany and I waited, I noticed a sign: “We will

serve no doughnut, before its time”. One block away from Park Plaza, we found a Starbucks Coffee

shop for Janet and Bethany. Oh, happy day! (I still don't drink coffee.) These were the BEST tasting

doughnuts we've eaten in the past 50 years. We can come here again, just to visit Flamingo's.

As the girls were getting ready, I drove around the Spanish Wells area, trying to find the lighthouse.

Too many gated communities for this tourist. Filled the gas tank and added air to the tires. I'm ready to

roll. Checked out of our room at 11:00.

We saw many beautiful beds at the entrances to the residential subdivisions. Gorgeous landscaping!

In a little while, we're back on I-95, going north to exit 33. We stopped for a pleasant lunch at Denny's.

Bethany drives east for about 45 minutes on Hwy 278 towards Charleston. And it rains on us again.

We need to stop at another visitors center and get info on tours, plantations, ferry boat rides, coupons,

etc. It is too rainy to visit Drayton Hall Plantation now, so we check into the Sleep Inn hotel on

Savannah St.

We're now ready to go to town. The city was previously named Charles Towne. After crossing the

Ashley River, we head to the southern part of the peninsula. The three of us will visit the Battery area,

also known as White Point Gardens, and waterfront. There are so many beautiful, old houses to snap a

picture of. The breezy balconies, wooden columns, wrought iron gates and fences, lush gardens and old

bricks made this a pleasure to see. Some of the historic markers listed dates on these houses, from

1670. Looking out at Charleston Harbor, we saw Fort Moultrie, Fort Sumter, Fort Johnson and

Sullivan's Island Lighthouse. Outstanding views!! Such rich history along Bay Street. One section is

known as Rainbow Row, lined with houses painted every color of the rainbow, built in the mid 1700's

I was pleasantly surprised to see 6 or 7 dolphins swimming in the harbor, where the Cooper River

reaches the Ashley River. Tried my best to catch them on the camcorder. Had to spend a little time at

the White Point Gardens. There are monuments, historical statues, the Confederate Memorial, mortar

cannons from Civil War activities and cannonballs. The massive oak trees add to the relaxing

atmosphere. A wonderful place to see and just unwind.

At a local grocery store, we bought sandwich fixings. Had peanut butter and jellies, fruit and cottage

cheese for supper. I browsed on the computer for a little while. We were all in bed by 10 p.m.
June 2, 2010 (Wednesday)

After a 7:30 continental breakfast, we drive down to the waterfront. Parking at Liberty Square, I buy

3 tickets for a 2-hour boat trip to visit the Fort Sumter National Monument. Our narrator told of the

historical events leading up to the beginning of the Civil War. Seems I had forgotten quite a bit. South

Carolina seceded from the Union on December 20, 1860. Six days later, Federal troops left Ft. Moultrie

for the more fortified Fort Sumter. In February of 1861, former Mississippi Senator, Jefferson Davis,

was inaugurated as President of the Confederate States of America. In his speech he pointed out that

the Confederacy was living proof that “governments rest upon the consent of the governed, and that it

is the right of the people to alter or abolish governments whenever they become destructive of the ends

for which they were established”. Montgomery, Alabama served as the first capitol of the Confederacy.

Mississippi, Georgia, Alabama, Louisiana, Florida and Texas soon joined the Confederacy.

On April 12, 1861 at 4:30 a.m., from Fort Johnson on James Island, a signal shot was fired by

Confederate troops. The bombardment from southern troops continued heavily all through the day.

Even though guns were fired from Fort Sumter, there were NO deaths on either side. After 34 hours of

shelling, Fort Sumter, under the command of Union Major Robert Anderson surrendered on April

14, 1861. The 85 Union soldiers were put on a boat and left for New York City, NY.

The war had now started; and Confederate troops held Fort Sumter. So much history here.....such

hallowed ground. I'm a proud member of the Civil War Preservation Trust. This group has bought and

preserved over 29,000 acres of Civil War battlefield lands at 110 different sites in 20 states.

There are a few unexploded shells, still embedded in the brick walls of the fort. It was amazing to

touch a piece of history like this. Lots of interpretive signs to easily explain what happened here.

Inside the fort are many exhibits, explaining the story of the fort's construction, the history

surrounding the fateful battle, and the life of the fort after the Civil War. We enjoyed reading a

complete time-line and seeing the original Palmetto Guard Flag and U.S. Flag.

After about an hour, it was time to board the ferry and head back to the dock. Lots more information
to read at the museum there. This has been very enlightening.

A late lunch was taken at Ruby Tuesdays, then we arrived back at our room at 5:30. Very leisurely

afternoon. I went to cool off in the swimming pool, while the girls settled in for a nap. After swimming

a few laps, there was a family from Tampa, FL. I started talking to. Threw a football with them for a

little while. The daughter was starting her first year at the Medical University of South Carolina. Her

dad was moving her in, and the grandmother came along to supervise. Yes, we have met plenty of nice

folks on our vacations. We had fun.


June 3, 2010 (Thursday)

Up at 6 a.m. and go buy Dunkin Donuts, coffee and ice. This morning we drove around the historic

downtown area. So much to see and so little time, we'll certainly have to come back here again. Glad I

bought a couple of books showing the history and old houses of Charleston.

For lunch today, we drive across the Cooper River and into Mount Pleasant. Our destination is the

RB's Seafood Restaurant on Shem Creek. We had a table by an airy window. What a wonderful view

as we watched boats and about 20 kayaks come by. Enjoyed a gentle breeze as we ate the Ultimate

Seafood Platter and oysters and shrimp. (Some of the best hush-puppies I've ever had.) One of the

most scenic restaurants we've been too; and for us, the seafood was excellent. I was intrigued by the

collection of fishing gear, which was once owned by Ernest Hemingway. It had been donated by

Hemingway's favorite Cuban fishing guide. (Check out the wine cellar). Again, a magnificent view.

The highlight of the afternoon is a 3-hour tour of the Magnolia Plantation and Gardens. Founded in

1676 by the Drayton family, it is the oldest public tourist site in the Lowcountry, and the oldest public

garden in America. A tour of the house takes a half-hour. This is the third Drayton family home to

stand on this location. The current main house, the core of which was built prior to the Revolutionary

War, gives a glimpse of plantation life in the early 1800's. There are ten rooms open to the tourists,

which are furnished with early American antiques, quilts, porcelain, and other family heirlooms. From

an original 2000 acres, there remain only 500 acres today.

The Gardens at Magnolia Plantation were open to the public in the 1870's. The first garden section

was completed around 1680, making it this hemisphere's oldest estate garden. For more than three

centuries, family members have added their own personal touch, adding and expanding to the gardens'

varieties. From the moss covered oaks to the cypress trees at the swamp, this is such a natural beauty.

There are camellias, azaleas, amaryllis, irises, daffodils, verbenas and so many more. Most of the trails

are wooded paths. They lead us by ponds, bridges, swampy areas and the Ashley River. There is an

Asian inspired bamboo garden. Also, an indoor Barbados Garden, showcasing tropical plants. Thomas

Drayton, the founder, arrived from Barbados in the 1670's, along with hundreds of early Charleston

settlers.

A tour on the Nature Train was most informative. In 1842, the first azaleas in the U.S.A. were

planted here. Today, there are approximately 20,000 azaleas and 64,000 camellias. This is an amazing

place. There are 254 species of birds that are seen annually. I checked our little map as we rode past

marshes, lakes, forests and swampy wetlands. There are many turtles and alligators to see, plus blue

heron, egrets and snakes.

We pass by rice ponds and are told about rice cultivation. A species called Carolina gold rice was

one of the most profitable export crops of any British colony. Because the climate and terrain of the

Lowcountry (swamps, marshes and inland fresh water rivers) mirrored the west coast of Africa, slaves

from that region were brought in by the thousands. Using their vast knowledge of rice cultivation, they

cleared the land and built rice dikes and levees. Not to be overlooked is the Prehistoric Indian Burial

Mound, the largest on the East Coast.

Another feature is the From Slavery To Freedom Cabin Project. Four or five of the original slave

cabins have been preserved and restored.... to tell the history of these early South Carolina inhabitants.

Each cabin represents a different period of the African experience on the plantation. You can just feel

the history as you stand in one of these old cabins. Wonderful weather as we end our day of touring.
June 4, 2010 (Friday)

Bethany is first up this morning. I go and retrieve coffee for the girls. After breakfast, we check out.

Our first stop today is the Boone Hall Plantation. Live oak trees were planted in 1843, arranged in two

evenly spaced rows. It would take many decades for the massive, Spanish moss covered branches to

meet overhead. This oak corridor is ¾ mile long. Driving along this Avenue of Oaks is a beautiful way

to start the tour. Open to the public since 1956, it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

We pass by nine of the original slave cabins, dating back to 1790 – 1810.

Where do we begin? Let's start with a 40-minute open air plantation coach tour. It goes from one

end of the plantation to the other. Sure enjoyed the history lesson. Boone Hall is one of America's old-

est working, living plantations. They have continuously grown and produced crops for over 320 years.

Indigo was the first crop which was planted. We pass by fields of strawberries, tomatoes, watermelon,

corn, squash, blackberries, blueberries, cucumbers and cantaloupes. There are about 100 acres

dedicated to growing crops.

The tour of the house includes 3 & 1/2 rooms, since the owners currently live upstairs. Built in

1935, it is the 4th house on this site. Our guide was dressed in historical attire and kept the tour

interesting and informative. The furniture in the house are period pieces and quite exquisite, especially

the floor to ceiling mirror. Also enjoyable is a picture of the original plantation house, which was torn

down in the 1930's, to make way for this current house.

Not to be missed is a self guided tour of the Slave Street. Each of the nine original cabins has an

exhibit about how slaves lived and worked. Each cabin has a recording that plays and tells about

different people who lived there. There are mannequins in there that tell a story. The audiovisual

presentations tell of different time periods. One cabin held a display of sweet-grass baskets, while

another had an exhibit of slave quilts. And we got a chance to hear some of the Gullah presentation,

while we were buying sandwiches and drinks.

I think we wanted to do some exploring on our own. Certainly enjoyed the beautiful gardens. The
brick-lined pathways create a butterfly pattern. Saw the cotton gin house (undergoing heavy

restoration), the smokehouse, a dock-house, cottages and the butterfly pavilion. A brickyard was

established in the 1800's by the owners, the Horlbeck brothers. By 1850, 4 million bricks were

produced annually. These architects designed and built many buildings and landmarks in Charleston.

They ventured into commercial pecan production. The plantings became known as the world's largest

pecan groves in the early 1900's. Wow, so much history at this site. The ABC mini-series, North and

South was filmed here in the 1980's. Alex Haley's sequel to Roots, Queen, was filmed at this location in

the 1990's. And the film, The Notebook, was shot in 2002.

With a trip to the plantation completed, it is just a natural to drive down the road to Boone Hall

Farms. Opened in the spring of 2006, the market stocks produce, local seafood, a butcher shoppe, a

wine alley, a floral department, and a market cafe. We bought lots of good tasting souvenirs for our

trip back home.

One final trip into downtown Charleston and we've scheduled a horse-drawn carriage tour of the

historic downtown area at 2:20. Our guide possessed a wealth of knowledge and was eager to share

with us. Such a relaxing one-hour plus tour as we viewed several dozen old houses and buildings and

heard the history and interesting tidbits of info on them. This was such a nice way to finish our tour of

Charleston, known as “The Cradle of Southern History and Charm”.

At 4:00 we are leaving the downtown area and heading to I-95. We stop by the same Denny's we

visited a couple days earlier. After a good meal, we've got lots of driving ahead of us. South of

Savannah, we exit the interstate and drive the back-roads of south Georgia. We pass through Waycross

and make it into Valdosta . It is 11:00 and we check into the Del Mar motel.


June 5, 2010 (Saturday)

My regular 6 a.m. routine: ice for the ice-chest and coffee to get the girls going. After checking out,

we find an old friend, Shoney's breakfast buffet. So good. Bethany does more driving today, gaining

her confidence. We stop in Dothan, AL and buy sunglasses. Two more stops to visit Janet's uncle in

Malvern and her aunt in Hartford. Crossing over the Florida line, we stop in Bonifay at Simbo's Family

restaurant.

Very heavy downpours near Pensacola. I am creeping along the interstate at 25 mph. About 6:45,

we view a gorgeous double rainbow (the first one I recall seeing). Stop across the street from Cottage

Hill Baptist Church and take a few pictures of the rainbow. Several pix show the rainbow “entering”

the steeple of the church. Home at 7:11 and now I'll retrieve 5 animals from the kennel. Life is good!

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