Hopi and Cedar Breaks

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Hopi and Cedar Breaks

Betty and I love the Hopi. They don't fight - no wars or attacks on other tribes. They believe in peace and negotiation as a few years ago, they won a court case to expand their lands. This suit with the Navaho had been going on for years and rather than bend or settle, they held their ground because they knew they were right. Sound like anyone you knew.

First things first. KC was right and on my drive out to the Mesas, the wipers got a workout. We arrived about 8:00 and some activities were underway. I found out the no camera rule is enforced as I was told by 2 residents - no cameras. I took only a few photos and all but one was from the car. There are several villages on each Mesa and in most cases we only visited 1 or 2.

On our initial visit, we gave a ride to a teen hitching up to First Mesa. He directed us to some of the potters, but the only ones interested were those who had signs on their home. The village at the end of the climb reminded us of a Pueblo with most of the buildings attached and some with multiple floors. Although our stay was short as there are strict rules on non-residents in the village, it made a lasting impression.

The First Mesa dedication was done next to the road going to the village and I said:

Betty. Our first visit was another adventure as we picked up a young man took him to the village. I was not sure he would survive your battery of questions, but he did help us find potters. We did not buy that day as it was about scouting. The sense and tone of the village reminded us of San Ildefonso, but more reticent. So I dedicate your quiet peaceful soul to those young people who may forget that peace is Hopi Way.

Second Mesa was where we spent most of out time, not in the villages, but at the campground, shops and galleries along the highway. Second Mesa was the most economically forward as they built a motel, museum, an artist co-op. However when we first came, there was only a shop selling mostly pottery and kachinas. We were able to purchase a Joy Navasie (Frog Woman) pot at a reasonable price and it was one of our prized possessions. Frog Woman had a world-wide reputation for excellence in Hopi-Tewa pottery and was considered in the top echelon of Native American potters. Both her and Blue Corn followed along with and perfected the traditional process of their Native American heritage. Joy's mother was the first Frog Woman and taught her daughter the old ways. They both used a frog symbol on the bottom of the pot, but each slightly different.

How important to Hopi pottery was Frog Woman? Hopi pottery was much sought after and the creation, display, and marketing of pottery blossomed. Many of Joy's children also became potters and used the Frog as their signature. Each developed their on unique frog and they followed in the footsteps of their mother. It was often unnecessary to turn a pot over and see the signature to know it came from Joy or her family. Born in 1919, I believe Joy is still alive living in a rest home on Hopi land.

I stopped at the location where Betty and I had two of our most memorable experiences and I talked of them in the dedication.

Betty. Remember the night we camp here on Second Mesa. I am not sure you slept much for all the worry. To say it was primitive was being positive. There was a table, no lights, no moon, no security, and the restrooms were bushes. However we survived and laughed about our night on Second Mesa. We bought our Frog Woman pot at the shop next to the campground. Remember the day we came to the shop and clerk greeted us at the door saying “did you see who just left, it was Robert Redford and he just bought a $2500 Kachina”. We did not see him, but Second Mesa was holy to us and I dedicate your appreciation and love of peace and art to all Hopi for they are your kin.

Third Mesa Appears to be both the largest and highest of the 3. We have driven through it several times, but rarely stopped. I have no distinct memories of the Mesa or the villages and did not do a dedication.

After a long drive through high desert of northern Arizona and Southeastern Utah, I turned north at Kanab, Utah and headed into the high country. There were thunderstorms and rain showers all around. I headed over to Cedars Break and the fall colors were blooming. Many Aspen had turned golden and against the lush green background of the evergreens, it was marvelous.

Cedar Breaks is a National Monument and holds a special place for us. This was a favorite camp site at high elevation (10 K+) with open meadows full of wild flowers in mid summer as snow melt usually came late in May and June. The weather was always cool and crisp with jackets needed in the evening. Cedar Breaks is an area where a large area of the mountain side has eroded to create and expose colorful rock formations. It is not as large as places like Bryce or Zion National Parks, but the way it is carved out of the mountainside and the coloring is unique. We covered all the overlooks and even drove to the top of Brian Head peak (11,703) and took photos. Well I took photos as Betty stayed in the car with the heater on high. It was a cold rainy morning with the wind at its usual gale force and wind chill in the 30's. I admit it was chilly and my shorts and wind breaker were little match for the winds.

Today I returned to a campsite I will never forget and made this dedication.

Betty. From this great campsite overlooking a field of wild flowers, I was out clicking away and you my wild flower photo partner was napping. I woke you at least 3 times, but nothing worked. The next morning you finally woke, but the wild flowers were now closed and we were off to places unknown. Just one of many memories we had here. We were like pioneers in this wilderness of the sun, the sky, the wind at 10K feet we and were on top of the world. I dedicate this campsite in Betty's name to those who come after to persevere and capture the day.

On to the Grand Canyon. Next update in a day or so.

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Photos

Dedication Site
Road to First Mesa

First Mesa
Taken from the road below

Dedication Site
Second Mesa campground still in use with no improvements, bur fewer bushes

Second Mesa
Old Orabi - one of the oldest continuously inhabited communities in the US

Dedication Site
Cedar Breaks campground

Cedar Breaks
The meadow full of flowers Betty missed

Cedar Breaks
Across the chiseled out mountain side with fall colors on the surrounding rim

Fall Colors
Aspen among the evergreens

Colorful Hillside
At the entrance to Cedar Breaks