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Published: March 3rd 2009
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Distance: 2 miles
Difficulty: easy-moderate
Our third and final full day in the Moab area saw us splitting our time between Arches and Canyonlands. After reading about the Fiery Furnace tour on Protrails.com, I knew we needed to include it as one of our activities on this trip. The opportunity to get a glimpse into the most rugged and unexplored area of Arches National Park was something I did not want to pass up.
Rising above the northern side of the Salt Valley, the Fiery Furnace is a labyrinth of tightly packed fins, spires, and arches. The Furnace gets its name from the burning color that the rocks take on when the setting sun hits them at certain times of the year. Within this rock maze exists an ecosystem that has rarely been touched by humans. Numerous species of plants and animals are found exclusively within the protective confines of the Furnace, including one flowering plant that is not found anywhere else in the world! The limited human contact has created a refuge in the rocks for everything from black widow spiders to birds of prey and numerous rodent species.
Other than the relatively small portion of the
area covered by the tour, most of the Fiery Furnace remains virtually unexplored wilderness, and the National Park Service is determined to keep it this way. Entrance into the Furnace is limited to two tours per day for most visitors. After taking the ranger-guided tour, visitors can obtain a permit to head back into the Furnace. However, the Park Service strictly forbids the building of rock cairns, so explorers will not be able to mark their progress.
The ranger-guided tour sticks to the southern edge of the Fiery Furnace and is almost entirely off of any formal trail. From the parking area and overlook, the ranger took us down about a hundred feet to the floor of a dry wash which served as the first of several stops along the tour. Due to the potentially disorienting nature of the Furnace, a volunteer is frequently chosen from the group to take up the rear and confirm that no one has been left behind. This would become very important as we made our way into the fins. Along the way, our guide pointed out several species of plant including the ever-present Utah juniper and the oddly-shaped Mormon Tea with its slender
tube-like leaves. While we saw evidence of snakes from trails left in the sand, we did not come into contact with any of the more dangerous species that occupy the Furnace. The area is full of so many impressive formations that it can be easy to miss the best of them without a knowledgeable guide. Some of the most impressive arches in the Furnace are the Skull Arch (two side-by-side arches resembling eye sockets) and the large Surprise Arch. Surprise Arch is tucked away in a large alcove and was discovered by a ranger who got caught in a sudden storm while exploring the Furnace. Looking for a covered area to take refuge, he was genuinely surprised (get it?) to find this arch when the storm cleared. The final stretch of the tour leads through the remnants of what may have once been an immense arch on the descent back to the parking area.
As mentioned above, anyone looking to explore the Fiery Furnace without a guide must first take the ranger-guided tour before obtaining a permit. It is strongly recommended that independent visitors to the Furnace area go with someone who is already familiar with the layout of
this maze of rocks. There are no maintained trails within the borders of the Furnace and rangers will scatter any cairns that they find. Remember that the goal is to keep the area wild!
Due to the popularity of the Fiery Furnace tour, the park recommends that interested visitors sign up at least two days in advance. Reservations must be made in person (not over the phone) at the Visitor Center.
The ranger-guided tour takes visitors through the easiest sections, but even those areas pose some difficulty. Hikers should come prepared to use their hands to guide themselves over rock gaps and through rather tight spots between fins. The rangers have chosen their routes carefully to minimize the impact on the surrounding environment. As much of the hike as possible is over exposed rock to avoid disturbing the cyanobacteria crust that helps to lock moisture into the otherwise dry soil. Although we did not encounter any, black widow spiders are known to live on the rock faces, so be mindful of where you put your hands! Sturdy boots with good traction are highly recommended for this hike. The most important rule is to pay attention to the ranger.
They are a wealth of information and will guide you along the route that is safest for you and for this fragile ecosystem.
Directions: From the main park entrance, drive approximately 13 miles along the main road. The road will dip down into the Salt Valley. As it climbs back out, look for the Fiery Furnace overlook and parking area along the right side of the road.
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