Memphis, Graceland and Civil Rights

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Driving to Memphis was a short 3 hour drive but involved me driving through the heaviest rain I've ever had to do. At one point it was so heavy it felt like I was driving through a waterfall, forcing me to pull over and wait out the worst.

The same storm caused 2 trees to fall across the road at my B&B, knocking out the power and so the first night in Memphis was by torch light. This I didn't really mind, I sat on the porch with Jamie, the B&B host chatting away and playing with her adorable 3 month old pup called Chew Chew. Chew Chew kept knocking at my door to be let in and everything was a big play ground! Could have totally fitted her into my bag to be my travel mascot. Too cute is just not words enough!

Memphis is the quietest of the big cities I've seen so far, with a poverty line that is very clearly seen. Much of it is very poor. But it's history in music and civil rights is rich and fascinating. I started with a tour of the Sun Studios, the birth place of rock and roll, and where the beginnings of Elvis, Howlin Wolf and Johnny Cash were seen. For such a tiny space, they packed in a fantastic tour. Kinda a little bit awesome when standing in a room where some of the greatest names of music have stood and sung.

Hopping on the free shuttle bus I headed over to Graceland, the huge, somewhat tacky, touristy, sprawl of attractions that was Elvis home. From jungle rooms, to squash courts with pianos, to airplanes with lounges and dining rooms, it was pretty interesting. However, they only displayed Elvis as this almost musical hero where everything was fun and fine in his life, missing out completely the years of depression, drug abuse and issues with weight. This I felt took away apart of his history that makes him more human and tangible to the likes of you or me.

From Graceland I headed over to the Museum of Civil Rights, where the Lorraine Hotel, where Martin Luther King was assassinated, has been turned into a museum. Really well done, and really quite moving. It portrays the history of inequality to equality from beginning to end, ending with the rooms where Martin Luther King stayed to the room where the sniper pulled the trigger. Highly recommended should any of you folks head that way.

Walking out the museum, the salivating smell of BBQ was in the air... Following my nose I found Central BBQ where even though I was not hungry, I managed to shove a pulled pork sandwich in my face. And it was good. Oh yes it was. This I washed down with a beer or two on Beale street while enjoying some pretty fantastic blues. Beale street in itself is a bit like the Khoa San Road of Memphis, a bit overwhelming and a lot of neon, but it served its purpose for an couple hours of entertainment.

Setting off at the crack of dawn the next day, I headed down Highway 61, to my first night of camping...

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