Wyoming National Monuments: In Which the Author Visits Crazy Devils Rushmore

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Day 4: Tuesday, July 28, 2009: Rushmore, Crazy Horse, and Devils Tower

Leaving Wall, Sophie (etc.) and I sauntered our way through the Black Hills National Forests, largely filled with sweet-smelling pine trees. The goal for the day is to visit all three National Monuments, beginning with Mt. Rushmore in the Black Hills National Forest, then 17 miles to the Crazy Horse Memorial, and finally, approx. 150 miles to Devils Tower, forever linked to the image of Richard Dryfess in Spielberg’s Close Encounters of the Third Kind. The site is in Wyoming.

Ranking the three monuments from “favorite” down: Devils Tower, Rushmore, and Crazy Horse.

Mr. Rushmore, obviously an iconic tribute to four U.S. Presidents: Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt, and Lincoln (and, hopefully, they left room for Obama after he works his magic). The site does not allow pets, but has a sublime parking garage that’s cool. The monument itself is actually free; however vehicle admission is $10 (I think that that’s per car). I visit the restrooms and grab a couple of postcards, then stroll down the granite walkway. The sculpture is impressive, particularly given its “small size” compared to the surrounding peaks. There’s a ¾ mile trail that offers a closer viewing point, so I hit the trail chiding myself for grumbling about the “hotel/car tourists,” who frequently invade the whole trail, making it difficult to continue my brisk pace. Along with many other “established” names in South Dakota, this site is a must.

Crazy Horse Memorial certainly offers the most heart-felt cultural tribute points. Immigrant sculptor Korczak wanted to offer fitting tribute to the Sioux tribe’s leader. Construction began in 1948, and some would argue over the progress since then. The sculpture is supported exclusively through private funding and donations, which allows me to happily fork over the $10 admission fee. The viewing site/welcome center is quite a distance, I would estimate over a mile, from the actual sculpture, and the head is certainly impressive. Dogs are allowed a bit around the area, but not on the $4 bus ride that takes folks to a point straight in front of the place where (eventually) a horse’s head should appear.

Heading west out of the gorgeous black hills, we spot a pristine lake and take a quick, cooling swim. Approaching Newcastle, follow 16 west into Wyoming. In lieu of Jennifer, I gave Sophie a “new state kiss,” and we cross 90 and arrive at Devils tower at approx. 4 p.m. In the cases of all 3 monuments, it’s interesting and exciting to know that they’re too large to keep hidden. Various views and glimpses dot the driving in all 3 cases. With Devils Tower, which scores huge points not only as an anomaly, but also in that it’s the only true geographic and natural example. As there are mostly canyons and modest forest around generally slopping hills, the tower appears tall and proud at about 1,200 feet. The red hills welcome visitors around a 3 mile circling drive to the visitors’ center. Admission is $10, but since I have a National Park card, it’s free (big points there!)
Although it would appear a much greater distance around the base, a short 1.4 mile trail circles the outskirts of huge boulders, obviously from the sheer vertical cliffs above. The park is “national park low key,” and, luckily like many great outdoor spaces, is done with a sense of respect and integrality (I refilled the 5 gallon jug, as the water is “tested daily”). Prayer flags to the lost Native American population and the mystical symbol of the tower dot the path. An interesting campground is right on site, but feeling tired and a bit cranky, Sophie and I leave the park’s entrance, turning north on the 24-loop. Our goal is to find a gravel road just past Alva and find a place to camp in the Black Hills National Forest north unit. The constant travel of the past 4 days has definitely left me wanting to stay in one nice spot for 24 hours and chill.

Of course, with the Rand McNally road atlas as my only real source of maps, the road should be clearly marked, as there are 2 National Forest campgrounds listed. Many of the small roads are not listed, and when I turned right at the first available National Forest sign, I realized later that I probably turned too soon. It was approaching dark, so after driving 10 miles (passing one really prime, but unfortunately currently occupied spot), the road ended with a “private property” sign. This is a slap in my National Forest face! I turned around and drove a mile in to a, although pretty, really “boring” spot. There’s spotty tree’s, but no real trails or views.

It’s just as well, because shortly after the light was really fading and some excellent dried Trader Joe’s ravioli, the rain started. I sat in the tent, plugging away on the computer, whole a constant, but not too heavy rain ensued. I realized that I’ve (Temporarily? Permanently?) misplaced my Mp3 player. Some pools of water do form in the tent, mostly from me spilling Sophie’s water and several errant Miller High Life cans that I’ve forgotten to place in my boot.
I also read a bit from a book about a couple doing a Pacific Coast Trail trek.

Even through I’m only 4 miles from an outdoor lodge/resort, and can hear their dog bark every once in a while, my mind gets to wandering about random killers, crazy clowns, acts of violence, etc. After a jaunt to the car (I had f-in’ forgot my reading glasses—damn you, eyes, damn you!), I thought to myself, “What if, when I unzipped the rainfly and tent door, got in, and my had fell on the back of the knees of two legs?!” There were also “jumping moments,” brief spells of “flight or flight” mentality naturally kicking in after startling moments. Sometimes, it’s as innocent as Sophie all of a sudden letting out a bark (she’s generally quiet). Other times, though, a loud, strange and bizarre noise presents itself. I can tell it’s big enough to make a large noise, yet I don’t hear any loud approaching or leaving rustling. This morning, on a brief hike to survey the site, I stepped on the end of a four-inch round pine stick, causing the slick, black and glossy other end to pop up two feet into the air, striking a snakes’ death pose. My girlish screams turned to laughter as I was picking up off the ground my (now empty) leftovers from last night. Perhaps even stranger, both in the National Grasslands and this site here, I’ve heard what I thought to be singing voices—music stemming from far away, just barely audible. This, of course, is an absurd notion. There’s no reason for people, out here in the west, to gather in large groups for outrageous block parties (not to mention, it was mostly “soul” types of ballads and singers. Very strange…

Even with temperatures in the upper 40s, I slept very well and deeply last night…I awoke at 8 a.m.; the rain was still pouring down (it still is, even at 1:30 in the afternoon). I elected to use this time to be trapped in the tent, as essentially, I was. There’s no sense going back to try to find a “better road” with “more exciting outdoor opportunities” in the rain. I read, pounded a beer, and typed away at today’s entry. I’m not getting phone service, so I’m trying to continue to type the blogs, and after a lot of writing last night and this morning, it feels good to be caught up. I’m going to wait until the rain breaks, then head 15 miles deeper into the “true” woods.

After, it’s on to Deadwood and Sturgis (things should really be heating up over there by now—what with the annual Harley festival beginning Aug. 4). I will then make my way, probably using 1-2 days, to rendezvous with my “hippie friends” from Chicago, Vik and Suzie in Yellowstone National Park.
Thanks for reading, and tell your friends!

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Photos

Local stopped by to say "hi"
He bought this car in 1942 as a senior in high school. It has 100,000 miles on it.

Comments

[Lucas]

Thank you!
My husband and I are taking this same trip (Saint Paul to Badlands, Rushmore, Devils Tower) in about a month (almost 2 years to the day since you took your trip) and your blog posts are really helping me in terms of what to expect and how to prepare. It's even changing my perspective as to how I can approach this trip. Even after I get to the blog posts that take place after this entry (the point at which we are turning around and heading home) I will still read along with your journey. Thanks for sharing. Even 2 years later, your words and images are reaching people.

[Greenelvis]

Thanks for the nice comment!
I've always found travelblogs to be a source of the "realities" of travel--far past the "highlights" that are often available at most advertising/official sites. Of course, even with careful planning, it's almost impossible to experience the exact same route, but no matter, it's all good! I hope that your trip is great as well; do you plan to blog it yourself?