#14 From the Devil to the Deep Blue Sky


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North America » United States » Nevada » Tonopah
September 9th 2010
Published: September 9th 2010
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Mammoth LakesMammoth LakesMammoth Lakes

There are lakes there, but they're pretty small. The name comes from the discovery of giant tusks and bones.
August 30-Sept 2: After Yosemite, we headed for Mammoth Lakes. Partly because I'd read an article about it in an airplane magazine (NWA? Alaska Airlines? Not sure, but what does it matter?) and partly because we were intrigued by seeing “Devil's Postpile” on the map next to it.

To get to Devil's Postpile, you had to take a compulsory shuttle bus, but this time not a free one, as in Yosemite. Frankly, I was relieved we were being driven because the road in was very steep and narrow. You'll see from the pictures that the postpile was amazing—one of the best examples of basalt columns anywhere. The day was hot and dry, and we were feeling the 7,000 ft altitude, especially when we discovered we'd missed a turn and walked an extra couple miles on the trail.

Then on our final uphill climb, Phil saw two bears! We both froze and I wondered how the couple ahead of us had gotten past them, while my mind raced on what we should do, and my blood turned to ice. “Where?” I asked.

“You are blind as a bat without your glasses,” Phil scolded. Then he saw a horse's head
Mammoth LakesMammoth LakesMammoth Lakes

A heartily developed recreation city with a somewhat strained Tyrolean theme. Here a rock climbing practise area is in front of the Yodeller's Restaurant, and next to a huge mountain bike rental stand.
rise next to the bear and he realized he'd seen two horses' rumps, not two bears. Ah well, we find as the years go by, we make more mistakes, and this one gave us a good laugh.

Heading east from Mammoth Lakes, we passed Mono Lake and travelled along a very funny road.
The sign said it would be narrow and curvy for the next 23 miles. With the road to Lick Observatory still fresh in our minds, I gripped the steering wheel and thought, here we go again. But this time the road wasn't narrow and the curves were vertical! After a while it was like riding a roller coaster, with the ups and downs the kind to give your belly a tickle, and some so steep that on the upswing we couldn't see the road beyond the next hump. Onward to Benton it took us, and we decided to press on to Tonopah, Nevada, it being still relatively early and Tonopah being a bigger dot on the map.

Tonopah, it turned out, had been a silver capital of Nevada, and also a place famous for star gazing. But for us it meant a night in a
Climate monitoring stationClimate monitoring stationClimate monitoring station

In this remote field at Devil's Postpile, this station monitors the amount of water precipitated through the year and automatically uploads the data to satellite.
motel, some terrible TV stations, a delicious Mexican dinner, and a full tank of gas.

We had decided to head for Bryce Canyon and Zion National Park in Utah, and chose what appeared to be the most direct route through southern Nevada: across the “Extra-Terrestrial Highway”!

Ever watched “The Twilight Zone”???


Additional photos below
Photos: 22, Displayed: 22


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Devil's PostpileDevil's Postpile
Devil's Postpile

This massive display of basalt columns stands upright like a bundle, but over at the left you can see some curving over.
Fallen chunksFallen chunks
Fallen chunks

It's forbidden to climb on the chunks, but here next to the path you can get a sense of their size.
Horizontal postsHorizontal posts
Horizontal posts

Here we got a sense of the girth of the posts by seeing their ends.
Hexagonal crackingHexagonal cracking
Hexagonal cracking

As the top of the lava cooled, it would crack, As each crack reached about 10 inches in size, it would split off at a 120 degree angle, the end result being hexagons. As the cracks deepened, the posts were formed.
Happy with hexagonsHappy with hexagons
Happy with hexagons

Our Arlington Street household (Somerville, MA) friends perhaps remember when we built a hexagonal bed and slept in it for several years.
Unhappy with heightsUnhappy with heights
Unhappy with heights

Some people ventured quite close to the edge of the pile, but I stayed well back!
Mountain streamMountain stream
Mountain stream

The water looked so inviting, as the day was really hot and dry.
Mono LakeMono Lake
Mono Lake

A hauntingly blue water in an arid landscape. Mono Lake is very important to Native Americans of this area.
Mono Lake 2Mono Lake 2
Mono Lake 2

On the near shore you can see some upright formations called tula towers for which the lake is famous.
East to NevadaEast to Nevada
East to Nevada

Mountains and sage brush
East to NevadaEast to Nevada
East to Nevada

The desert bloomed with yellow.
Clown MotelClown Motel
Clown Motel

We stopped at the first motel we found as we entered the city, but this was the second and OF COURSE I would have insisted we stay here if we hadn't already paid for the other one..
Tonopha: Opening soonTonopha: Opening soon
Tonopha: Opening soon

This hotel boasted that it would be opening in 2008, And perhaps it had--at least with its windows removed it was definitely open.
Bygone daysBygone days
Bygone days

The Mizpah Hotel, too, was closed. Tonopah had seen better days. Come on now, folks, buy some silver and help Nevada reinvigorate!
The Extra-Terrestrial HighwayThe Extra-Terrestrial Highway
The Extra-Terrestrial Highway

I asked at the gas station why it was called this, and the tired woman shrugged and said, "People say they see space ships there." It's right next to the Test Site where the Air Force tests new bombers and such.
Extra-Terrestrial Road 2Extra-Terrestrial Road 2
Extra-Terrestrial Road 2

Signs read "Beware of low flying air craft".
The Extra-TerrestrialsThe Extra-Terrestrials
The Extra-Terrestrials

Were these life forms from another planet???


9th September 2010

The windy road!!
I well remember the road into Mammoth Lakes when we drove there in 2001 - we were trying to coast downhill as much as possible since we were almost out of petrol and didn't know how much further we had to go until we finally found a garage! But of course we lived to tell the tale and never did run out of petrol either. I know you're going to adore the rest of your travels in that vicinity. Do you have an American National Parks Yearly Pass? We bought one because it worked out cheaper than paying to enter each National Park seperately. Then when we later travelled to NZ before the pass was invalid we gave it to a young English couple who were travelling on to the States on their way home. So I'm pleased to say it gots lots of use!! M xx
10th September 2010

Travel blog
Hello Martha, I am enjoying your blog immensely. And those pics of Yosemite (aka Yosemight?) were just stunning. Glad to see there are a couple in my inbox this morning. See you when you return, Colin
12th September 2010
Mammoth Lakes

Your trip
Hi Martha, I'm enjoying your geological and astrological trip notes. Glad you're having a good time. Beryl

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