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Published: January 28th 2011
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Kim made a friend
This little guy was camping out in the condo one night while I was up typing. I thought Kim would like to see him so she got up and captured and released him. What is one thing I had to do while in Hawaii? Surf. Today we woke up early and drove around to North Shore to have a go at surfing. I have attempted to go surfing a handful of times and because of different circumstances ranging from the owner of the boards partying too hard to low surf. Luckily for us we didn't have either issue this time. On the drive over we hooked up with Surf Hawaii, after making payment via Paypal all we had to do meet up with the van in Haleiwa. We had about an hour once arriving in Haleiwa so we walked around and did a bit of shopping. Things were a little busier than normal in the area as Volcom's Pipe Masters was going on, pretty cool, and it was streaming in the shops we visited. After our hour was up we met up with Edison who we followed to Puaena Point, ESerdison introduced us to Sergio and his wife Carly. Sergio is a professional surfer from Brasil, (I know in English it is Brazil, I have several friends from Brasil so I feel like I can spell it correctly), who instructs to make a living.
After a short shore lesson on how to pop up we swam out in the canal and then into the surf. We had been given long boards and standing up was actually pretty easy. I caught my second wave, rode it in and never looked back. I was able to catch some shoulder height waves, I took one decent fall and got rolled which was exciting. Kim was able to get up and do quite well, so I didn't have to worry about her at all, I could just swim out into some of the bigger stuff and enjoy it. The only thing I was disappointed in was how easy it was, I wished almost immediately that they had given me a smaller, more maneuverable board. The boards we had were wide, long and heavy. Easy to learn on but I don't necessarily like easy. Regardless it was an amazing experience. Kim has been wanting to see/swim with sea turtles since well before we landed on Oahu, after surfing she had the chance to see, take pictures and even touch one. She was like a little kid, a smile spread out all the way across her face, it was really
Second Wave
I swear this was my first time. pretty cute. After lugging the boards back to the van and sliding them on top we said our goodbyes, tipped Sergio for doing a fantastic job, and we took off to find some shave ice.
Turtle Bay Resort appears to be strictly a resort, but Hawaii has a law that all beaches are public, which I think is pretty genius, because it affords some of us the opportunity to enjoy the wonderful bay they have enclosed there. Kim and I ate at the restaurant there and laid out for a bit before making our way back around the island, we had plans to swim over to Goat Island, but when we parked we had a bad feeling about a couple of locals. The broken glass at our feet solidified our decision to not make the swim. (The unfortunate part of Hawaii is the break-ins and theft. We have been warned continuously to not leave anything in our vehicle when we venture from it.) The idea was to leave all our things in the car and wade/swim across to an island nearly a half mile off shore. This would give the locals who saw us pulling up more than enough
time to add Jeep glass to the existing pile and make off with our belonging. It wasn't worth the risk for us, so we drove the rest of the way to Waimanalo instead. It has been a few long and exhausting days. Having to get up at 5:00 am tomorrow to dive the Mahi, a wreck dive at a depth of 65-105 feet, I figured I could use the rest.
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