Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Hawaii

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In August of 2004 I visited Kauai and I wanted to do the Kalalau Trail after hearing about it from friends and reading that it was one of the best coastal hikes in the world. Well, in short it is amazing! Most guidebooks typically recommend 3-5 days to do the trail. Well, I don't listen well--I had it in my mind that I would do it all in one day--11 miles out and 11 miles back. But, it is not really the distance that is so daunting but the fact that the trail narrows so much in places and is exposed on the cliffs. And after a number of good rains and washouts it can present some nerve-racking sections. So, I stayed in the beautiful little town of Hanalei and drove over to the trail head early in the morning to begin my hike. Two miles in is Hanakapiai Beach. This is where the masses come--and where the masses turn around. So, after this point is a lot of peaceful solace on the trail. Unfortunately, my brain was not kicked into gear at this point because I waded through the water that you must cross at the beach (it's more like a river) with my brand new digital camera in my pocket. Needless to say that camera was ruined and I was not happy. But, I trudged on and on. The weather was sunny, beautiful, but hot, around 90 degrees. A couple more miles in I met a couple of female police officers who had traveled from Phoenix to do the trail. However, they had not been successful because the trail was too wet for them to get past the 7mile mark where the trail was most exposed. Having heard this I continued to that point with some trepidation. Just before this harrowing point at 7 miles I was sliding down the muddy trails just trying to hold on to something. Then I saw a guy who looked just like Moses (loin cloth, staff, wild hair, sandals, the whole bit) come walking up to me (with much better balance than me I might add). I was so dumbfounded I didn't know what to say--he did, "First time on the trail, eh?" Once he was gone I got to the crux of the cliff just before the 1/2 mile or so that was the most dangerous part of the trail. I sat and looked at it for about 15 minutes before turning around to go back. As I was walking the 7 miles back I became so aggravated at my inability to go and make it past my fears on trails. So. . . . as soon as I got back, I drove to the other side of the island, bought a new camera and some biking gloves to get a better grip on things, and decided I would do the whole trail the next day. Back early the next morning I encountered the two police officers again, this time at Hanakapiai Beach as they had given up and were returning. They were being hassled by some naked guy who hung out at the beach (you see some interesting people on this trail) and were glad I came upon them. I told them I was going as far as possible and they wished me luck. Well, by late that afternoon I conquered the trail. The beach at the turnaround was great, however I only had time to sit for a few minutes and enjoy the waterfall over the beach before turning around. The views of the cliffs are beautiful at each turn. If you do this hike you will remember it forever. I would recommend taking a lot of water (I had my pack full and drank all of it), fruit, energy bars, etc. and watch your footing carefully as sometimes the vegetation grows up over it but then the trail is still narrow. BTW, I saw "Moses" later that week in Hanalei and apparently he lives out on the trail somewhere. He said numerous people have fallen from the cliffs . . . . so be careful. And try to keep your camera dry!

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Photos

Ke'e Beach
The start of the trail and next to the actual location of Bali Ha'i in South Pacific

Stream
2 miles in--here is where I crossed with the camera in my pocket :-(

Trail
This was the tough part at 7 miles because of the rain and the washout of the trail. Not much to hold on to here!

I can see the turn-around!
The beach at 11 miles is just ahead.