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Published: August 4th 2012
Mixed emotions today as I need to bid farewell to Brenda, Diane and the kids (the dogs) to move on to McCarthy. I'd be happy to stay longer but yet there is that need to continue the journey. Another wonderful breakfast by Brenda including spinach quiche and then I take some time to at least get Day 4 of the travel blog finished before departing. Then I bid a very fond farewell to Brenda and each of her dogs. It has been a marvelous stay and should I ever get back to Alaska again, I will definitely look to stay at Matanuska Lodge. I continue to recommend to all though keep in mind it is not a kid-friendly place by Brenda's own admission. If you are a single, couple, or small adult group though, I very highly recommend it! Thanks for everything Brenda and Diane!!
As I head further on Glenn Highway , there is a definite change in topography. Mountains turn to tree laden rolling hills. There are so many shades of green that it's kind of like getting a new extra large box of Crayola crayons and not being able to figure out which green crayon is your
favorite shade of green. Alaska has had a cooler and wetter summer so the greens are very strong compared to the hot and very dry summer of Wisconsin where the grass was yellow, tan, or brown when I left. These hillsides are obviously flourishing from the weather since everything here is green.
I stop in Glennallen and decide to get gas since it is the last city printed in red before McCarthy. I then decide to call Currant Ridge Cabins in McCarthy to inquire about gas and groceries there (I am learning). I hear there is no gas to be had in McCarthy and there is only a very small grocery store. I'm told to get what groceries I might want in Glennallen and fill up on gas in Chitina (pronounced Cheetna) before heading in. So I stop at the Glennallen grocery store and head south on the Richardson Hwy .
There are snow peaked mountains in the distance but since the road constantly twists and turns, it is a mystery whether I will end up there or not. Eventually it becomes apparent I am headed toward at least one set of the mountains. I take the turn
off to Chitina and marvel at the constantly changing countryside. One minute it is the undulating tree packed hillsides and the next turn are mountains and cliffs. I stop in Chitina, fill up on gas and check out the very, very small town. There is a warning about continuing on to McCarthy - travel at your own risk. Makes me wonder what I have gotten myself into but of course I have to continue. I proceed on a one lane road through a rock cliff and it opens up to a huge river bed with mountains behind. Another gorgeous part of this unbelievable state.
I see the McCarthy road sign and now realize what they meant as far as traveling at your own risk. It becomes a small, dirt/gravel road and I think to myself "What were you thinkin?" But I have a reservation already made and knew it was an unpaved road. I just didn't realize how rustic it would be and make note of the odometer so that I have awareness to the fifty some miles of this road I am to travel. The further I go the more I realize why they say two hours for
this fifty some miles of road. No way a person travels 50-60 miles on this road. The dust alone would kill 'ya. In between lots of trees I see stunning views presenting lakes, rivers, and mountains. Some are absolutely breathtaking. I am concerned about time since it's clouding up and looking like rain so I forego stopping at most pulloffs.
I go for many miles seeing only one vehicle from each direction and I know this is where I want to be. There is a certain amount of personal freedom to know here you are in the middle of this backwoods country and it's just me, myself, and God driving this road. The memory of some caring girlfriends telling me about criminals hiding in the backcountry like this comes to mind and I chuckle while reminding myself caution is a good thing. It is gorgeous and every turn is a surprise including the road that I now wonder if there is room for me in my car and another car from the opposite direction. Then I come to "it" - the bridge that I didn't know about. I first see it from an overlook and have to stop to
take a picture thinking it is a railroad bridge or a historical bridge of some sort. As I head back out on the road the realization starts hitting me that this road is headed right for that bridge and I think - no, don't tell me. I stop at the wayside right before the bridge as I read the warning signs - "One Lane Bridge" and by the way, the "B" is not truly visible on the sign anymore. "15 M.P.H." it says. Then the next sign and I am so "happy" I was correct - it is both a railroad bridge and a historical bridge only now, I'm supposed to go over this one lane, wood plank bridge floor in my SUV with the Kuskulana River raging below it. I have options. I can turn around and go back and forget the money I have down on the place in McCarthy and hope I can find another place somewhere. I can try closing my eyes as I go over - no, forget that one...bad idea. I can pretend I'm really confident and just drive over the thing reminding myself that this is not a new discovery - people drive
over this bridge all the time. Well, I decide after not all that long to just forget about options. This is the way to the place I need to go and it's going to be fine especially since you can't stop on the bridge per the last sign before entering. So, deep breath and...go! And I did; and it was exciting and only a tiny bit scary all at the same time; and it was absolutely fine! Funny though, one thought I had going across - "If a car going over an old railroad bridge breaks the bridge and falls far below into a raging river and there is nobody there to hear it...does it really make a sound?" Seriously, that really came to mind and I'm glad 'cause it made me laugh while I was going across the bridge. It really was kinda fun - and certainly gave me a level of confidence in tackling something new and different 😉
Once that was over it was back to watching the road, the scenery, and looking out for wildlife of any kind. Traffic picked up a little (another car every five miles or so). Then I saw on the
dashboard one of those things you just really don't want to see at this point. Yep, the red light that says "Left rear tire low; add air." Aside from wondering where I would get air out here to put in the tire, I realize I forgot one of those really important tools my Dad had taught me to carry when I travelled like this (before Jerry) and that would be a tire guage. Well, no store to stop at to pick one up and already have the problem so what do you do? Keep going of course - very carefully. It's another mile or two and I know I'm starting to feel the tire isn't quite right so start thinking maybe it's not just low and it's the first I'm really thinking maybe it's actually a flat tire. So I stop and look and sure enough, it's a flat. Geez - why doesn't that red warning light tell you it's flat instead of just saying it's low, add air? MMmmm...so now what do I do out here in the middle of nowhere with a flat tire. Call AAA? Doubt they'd get here before morning if they'd come at all. And
come to think of it, I have no clue where on McCarthy Road I am now since the warning light about the low air does not go off so I can't see the odometer that was there before so I really don't know how far I have yet to go. Nice. The absolute irony is that I'm not frustrated or crying or anything like that - I am actually laughing. It's like OK - now what are you going do Missy. So I drive some more very slowly believing I'm really not that far from the place anyway. And yes I know you can ruin the rim but it wasn't quite that flat - - yet.
It was probably another mile or two before I was starting to feel like maybe I could be getting flat enough to cause some other damage. I see a mile marker 147 sign which was very reassuring because at least now I knew where I was. I call Andy at the cabins where I'm supposed to stay. I tell him I'm at mile 147 and ask how much further to him. He says he's at mile 158 or something like that. I say
"Oh...cause I'm coming in on a flat tire." And he says something like 'No you're not. Stop right now. Put your flashers on and get yourself started. There's traffic on the road and lots of folks who will be willing to stop and help. I can't come right now but if I don't hear from you in a half hour or so, I'll call and come out or we'll figure something out.' It made perfect sense to me especially after he reassured me there really weren't criminals out here and there would be a Good Samaritan stopping by. So we hang up and I immediately realize I USED to be able to change a flat but at the moment, I didn't even know in this car where the jack was or where the spare tire was. I laugh again and reach for the instruction book which I am relieved to find this car has. I locate the jack components and of course it is bolted inside the compartment. The spare is under the car and I've never taken one out from under the car so I locate those instructions but first focus on how to get the jack out.
So I'm laying in this awkard position in the back of the SUV trying to get the bolt loose that's holding the jack in place. A van slows as it comes to pass me. It stops and the window comes down and the two guys go something like 'oh, you've got a flat.' I want to say 'brilliant' but I bite my tongue (literally). The driver asks if I'd like some help. They don't look very criminal-like so I say yes, I'd be so appreciative (or something like that). Well, the van pulls up ahead of my car and these six guys come out of it. I don't even know what to think and thankfully, do not have time to think about it at all! I had gotten the bolt loose for the jack so one guy takes it, puts the jack in the back of the car but takes some other tool that comes with it. Another guy wheels over a bigger jack from their van and starts positioning it on the side of the car because the other guy is working on getting the spare out from under the back of the car. Meanwhile, two other guys are
getting rocks to put ahead of the front tires and another is loosening the lugs on the tire. I'm already saying thank you but also mention I'm feeling weird just standing there watching them work without helping...as in I don't do damsel in distress very well. They laugh but continue working and I swear - not five minutes go by and while they are putting the spare donut on, another one of the guys is already looking at what caused the flat. He shows me a very small slice in the tire which we agree must be the problem. He then explains where their tire repair is right outside of McCarthy (at the air strip). And that's it, they're done. Flat tire is thrown in the back, doors close, they roll their jack back to their van and they all start loading into the car and I'm like WAIT...can I buy you some beers or dinner or something? And they all look at me and each other, shrug their shoulders, and say 'no, this is what we do here. Welcome to McCarthy!' I do find out at least a couple are from St. Elias Alpine Guides (I later find out
it's SEAG for short). I thank them profusely and then ask them for a picture for my travel blog. Though it was asking a lot but think they kinda got a kick out of it. It was pretty funny as you can see from the picture. And then they were gone! Whoever thought a flat tire could end up fun and adventurous thing but it did. Glad I was laughing when they showed up and not helpless or crying. I do know for sure what place I'm going for to do any activities I'll do in McCarthy or Kennicott. Yep, St. Elias Alpine Guides (SEAG). They were awesome!!
That being such a long story, I'll keep the rest short. I made it to the cabin place on my donut of a spare tire and after talking with Andy, checked in and waited until morning to get my flat to the one guy in McCarthy who does tire repair. Cabin was great. I was tired. The day was a true adventure in so many ways!! Tomorrow is another day to see McCarthy and Kennicott Alaska! I feel so thankful for the help and even for the experience.
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