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Published: August 6th 2006
(August 28th through the 30th 2005) We left early Sunday morning for Oaxaca. It was Pollo, Bere, Lucha, Kosme, and I all squeezed into Pollo's father's volkswagen; we all couldn't fit in his jeep, plus luggage. So, he and his father switched cars for the few days we were going to Oaxaca. Pollo had worked all night at his valet job, so he started the drive since he hadn't slept all night. Not because of the work, but because of an incident at work quite funny. (Well, one of the valets had dropped a customers keys in a sewer drainage--the customer had to drive his car home. Since no one was small enough, Pollo had to do the honors. He got down to his boxers, and jumped in. It took him over an hour to find them, disgusting I know, and this was after the country club closed, which was past four.)
We left around 8 in the morning and headed out of Jiutepec. We passed through Cuatla and Puebla, and decided to go through a smaller highway rather than the big one. It was worth it, and the views were amazing. Mountains were massive, green lush vegetation surrounded us, and
Oaxaca
Monte Albanthe sky was blue as blue can be. We passed through small towns. Very beautiful, and friendly. Got to know some of the country side. We talked about everything, and listened to good music.
We finally made it to the state of Oaxaca. We drove through the town that is believed to have been the birthplace of corn, according to an American anthropologist that did work there; the name escapes me. As is typical in various locations in Mexico, a kid tries to make us pay a toll so we can continue. Luckily a car was in front of us, so we sped through before the kid could put up the chains.
It was late afternoon, and the long haul was killing us, and in the middle of our climb through the moutains we decided to rest up, while we stared into a beautiful scene. We took some photos, and continued our trip.
We finally arrived into the city of Oaxaca, and looked for a place to stay. We decided on a spot on Avenia 20 de noviembre, right in front of el mercado 20 de noviembre. It was nice, clean, and low prices, which was good for everyone.
We
Oaxaca
the road to Oaxaca cleaned up after a long day of travelling, and we headed out to see some of the city. We walked to the zocalo and saw the cathedral. We had elote--or mazorca en Colombia--(corn), it is amazangly delicious, in a cup with mayonaise, or on stick with mayonaise. No joke, delicious. Spicy and sour with the lemon. Gets you mouth watering just looking at one. We then went to a bar that Lucha had known from the first time she had gone. On our way the skies opened up, and it just poured down. We got drenched. Finally found the spot and sat down. This place was known for its mezcal, just like every other place in Oaxaca. Had triple shots and we all felt well. Drank some beer, and more tripple shots. Everyone then stuck with beer, except for Bere, who kept on going witht he tripple shots. She was done for. We all felt happy after some drinks, relaxing, and getting out of the rain.
Some people that were travelling throughout Mexico were selling some hand made crafts, we met them, spoke with them, became friends, and Lucha bought me a bracelet. I almost blurted out 'gracias marica' to
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the road to Oaxaca the guy--which is good in Colombia, nothing bad when you say it to someone you meet and become friendly, but not in Mexico, so
I just said 'gracias guey.' We left and headed back to our room. Everyone was done for, and we all went to bed for the next day.
We got breakfast at the market. Some mole for me, and Pollo offered me some crickets with chili and lemon, nothing special, but not bad either. Oaxacan cheese is by far one of the best in the world, but the chocolate is ok--nothing compares to chocolate from Colombia, in my opinion. We got ready and headed to Mitla. The site was small, but very cool. The way it is set up is amazing. Various rooms are in very good condition, and some fo the art can still be seen on the walls, which is amazing. Between the two sites is a small crafts market, and beautiful things are sold--from clothes to decorational items. Teh other part is the palace, and the room in there are amazing. I really enjoyed this site. But once again the skies opened up, and it poured. Early afternoon and we headed to hierve agua
Oaxaca
the road to Oaxaca and the dried falls. It was a great drive, and the mountains we climbed gave us beautiful views of the Oaxacan valley. Some more tolls that locals set up, this time we couldn't by pass them. Payed some the fees, and continued our way.
The place is simply breathtaking. You see into the mountains, and there are simply no words to describe how beautiful it is. The best way I guess is how Pollo said it "No mames guey!". A nice stroll that the place provides, just over 2 km, is very nice, but a bit exhausting. You are able to swim in some of the pools that come out of the rocks, but we decided against it. Again the rain came down, and we had to take shelter for a couple of minutes while it passed. From the pools on is so high that you feel empowered. Then you walk to the dried falls and the pools are small, and several hundred meters down. We walk the trail, come up and sit down for lunch, exhausted. It was very humid that day.
On our way back to the city of Oaxaca, we stop at a house that makes its
Oaxaca
the road to Oaxaca own mezcal, and the owner shows us how it is made. Grinding, burning, and fermatation. Very old school, as the family donkey does most of the work. Pollo buys two liters, which odly enough come in two gasoline containers. Quite funny.
On our way back we decide to go another way, an unpaved road, and the mountain we climb is tremendously high. The pools from hierve agua can't be seen, and the dried falls are tiny. Again the view is amazing. We make it to the top, head down, and pass through a tiny town, and make our way back to Oaxaca.
We change, shower, and go out. This time to a kareoke place, which was being advirtised, but when we get there, the place is empty--we make the best of it. We own the kareoke machine, sing all night, and get plastered. I get made fun off on our way back for using the verb 'coger' which in Mexico is used very dirty, while in Colombia we still use it for its original purpose. We make an international drunken call to Chile, to speak with our good friend Viviana. Make it back to the hotel, and decide we are
not done for the night, so we (Kosem, Pollo, and I) go out to buy some beer. We aparently walk through the red light district, as there is a prostitue on every corner, no joke. On the corner we stop at to buy some beer, a guy, dressed in drag is waiting for business. We discuss, and laugh about something. As we are heading back, the prostitute starts talking to us. He is atleast 6'5, with heels on. He is wearing a small black tank-top, covering himself with a red scarf. He has the shortest skirt, red, and is wearing stockings. He says "Saben que, tu (pointing to me) eres el mas guapo, solo tienes que rebajar peso." (He said, that I was the most atractive of us three, just that I needed to loose some weight). We start cracking up, it was a good moment. We get back, drink the beers, and head to bed--not before a practical joke is played on me, quite funny and good, I'll describe later on). The next morning we get up early, as it is our last day, and head to Monte Alban. We eat breakfast on the way at a stand on
the road on the side of the mountain.
Monte Alban is magnificent. What a site. It is located on top of a mountain in the middle of the valley of Oaxaca. The structures that are still there are great. The place is huge, and the way it was built, empowers you, as you look at it and the valley in the background. There are different structures, and each one is positively imposing. I don't think i can do it justice describing it, and the photographs are just a mere taste--even though they are beautiful. We walkt around some hours, meet a group from Colombia that is travelling throughout Mexico, and we head back to Oaxaca. While Bere and Pollo do their own thing, the three of us (Kosme, Lucha, and I) walk the center of town. Again, more rain pours down, and we find refufge at a coffee shop. We stay there for over two hours talking about everything, from love to Mexican politics, as we wait for the rain to stop. It doesn't.
I really enjoyed Oaxaca. It is a really cool city. Very colonial in its architecture, but it seems it still has a vibe from pre-colonial times.
I would not say it is touristy, but many people come to visit. One of my favorite cities. A must visit in my oponion.
Another hour goes by, and we are late in meeting Pollo, so we book it in the rain. We get drenched, get in the car, and head back to Jiutepec.
This time we do take the highway. Much faster ride, though there is rain the whole way. We stop in Puebla to get some tacos arabes. Delicious. Outside Cuatla, we get stopped by the military, and get our car searched. Nothing happens, and we keep going. We arrive late, around 1 am, and head to bed.
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