Tour of Monte Alban

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Friends,

On Sunday we went to Monte Alban one of the most impressive and important archeological sites of Mesoamerica. We were fortunate enough to have a very knowledgeable guide in don Pedro lead our tour as he provided the different schools of thought about Monte Alban's ruins and their purpose for the ancestors of Oaxaca's present day Zapotecs.

What is clear is that Monte Alban was unearthed by Mexican archeologist Alfonso Caso in the 1930s and that the ancient city was founded about 500 b.c. where they raised monumental platforms, pyramids, palaces, and a ceremonial ball court. Its present day name implies white mountain as it is atop a hill above the Oaxaca Valley and the reason the natives decided to build there can probably be attributed to it stategic location overlooking the valley. Whether or not drought, floods, or famine played a part in its building remains unclear, howver what is clear is that in a time and area without beasts of burden (oxen, horses, bulls) one can only imaging the difficulty in hauling rock, water, and food necessary in its construction.

Our tour began with TOMB 7 which many archeologists believe was a small palace as its remaining foundation indicates hints of larger bedrooms, patios, a sweat lodge, and a grand tomb located underneath the palace where Caso discovered bodies and treasure during his excavation. From Tomb 7 we entered the grounds and toured the museum before climbing the North Platform which overlooks the entire MOnte Alban archeological zone. Upon decending the North Platform one immediately enters the main plaza which is about 1,000 feet long and about 2/3 of that in width. It is believed the main plaza, much like the local tianguis served as a market place where goods were bartered and sold and people mingled. Others believe the main plaza served as an area for ceremonies and in some areas perhaps sacrifice.

The oldest monumental construction on site is the DANZANTES BUILDING whose walls are slabs that depict hieroglyphic (spell?) personages including both men and women in contorted positions which gives them their name DANZANTES (DANCERS). Nearby BUILDING J is an arrowhead shaped edifice that is believed to be an observatory as it faces Southwest near the South Platform. Another interesting area is the main ball court just below the north platform. Unlike Maya and Toltec ballcourts, Monte Alban's is without a stone ring (GOAL) but its playing field is sunken with bleachers surrounding it for spectators. The game is believed to be similar to JAI ALAI in that 2 teams punched a rubber ball competitively. There is still evidence of the stucco-lined walls which were used as smooth surfaces suitable for deflection and bounces.

Afterward, we had time to visit the gift shop and cafeteria before heading out to Santa Maria Atzompa to the Mercado de Artesanias (Handicrafts marked), a village cooperative with many items especially pottery in the form of cookingware, flower pots, and figurines. By the time we arrived to Santa Maria Atzompa I was tired and a little burned from the sun so I sat and rested while our students wandered through the cooperative and bought whatever caught their attention.

Finally, we headed back to Oaxaca and as we arrived to the INstituto Cultural Oaxaca our students went their own ways, some to eat a late lunch, some to the Mercados Benito Juarez and 20 de noviembre, and others to their homes to study for class on Monday. I personally returned to my hotel room to watch the replay of Mexico's 3-1 victory over Iran in World Cup action as well as a 90 minute nap. Tomorrow....back to school!

JUAN

Lourdes and Reina, I wish you both were here to experience this amazing place and appreciate the people, the culture, and the natural beauty. I love you both very much and miss you too. You're always in my thoughts.

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Photos

Monte Alban
A panoramic view of Monte Alban

North Platform
This is the North Platform as seen from the main plaza area

museum slabs
These slabs are located inside the museum...I believe they are duplications of originals but I am not sure.

Ball Court
Here is a view of the Main Ball Court. Note the bleachers available for spectator viewing

Los Danzantes
Here are some slabs depicting the Danzantes located in the Monte Alban archeological zone

Buulding J
This is building J (observatory?) as seen from the South Platform. Note its position facing southwest very differently from other buildings.

Oaxaca Valley
This is a panoramic view of the Oaxaca Valley from MOnte Alban.