Where are the Chihuahuas?

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We had a real problem in Chihuahua. We could not find good accommodation. At the cheap end there seemed to be a couple of rat infested holes so we decided to stay somewhere more expensive. But the three big hotels we tried were full. There was something going on in town. So we ended up at the Hotel Plaza which was a meager P$135 (US$13) for a large room with a shabby bed, missing electric switches and holes in the walls where the switches should be.

The next morning we found the railway station and brought first class tickets for the next day for the Copper Canyon. Nearby we found Quinta Luz, which used to be the headquarters of Pancho Villa, Mexican Revolutionist. It was a very reasonable P$15 entrance. The house was very busy. There was a large group of old Americans visiting and the army was not only running the place, they were painting all the door frames and just starting on the walls. While Pieter was depositing his bag an old American lady came up to the army guy at reception and held out her wet hands and asked 'Where can I dry these?' Pieter was horrified and embarrassed. A little later another lady was calling to her husband 'Gerard, have you seen the guns in here? There are guns in here Gerard!'. The whole museum would have heard that shrill call. We did enjoy the museum. Lots of old furniture and revolutionary objects and photos. Including a photo we had seen twice before of the woman of the revolution on a train (La Adelita). A great photo. Most interesting was the car in while Pancho was assassinated, complete with bullet holes and photos of the grisly event.

Next we found Quinta Gameros, an art nouveau labour of love. Gameros built it for his fiancee who subsequently married the architect. It was awe inspiring, beautiful like an elves house, lots of swirly wood and floral patterns. Some lovely art on the walls as well. As we were coming downstairs Gerard's group arrived. Even though we walked and they had a bus they had taken longer to get there because of the extended stop in a tourist tat shop across the road from the last museum.

Next we had a long walk to the Palacio de Gobiero which was beautiful with fantastic murals. Quite exhausted with all the walking we found out from the tourist where the nearest cinema was and caught a bus. We saw a scary horror film, 'The Puppet'. We ate for the second night in a row at La Casa de los Milagros (House of the Miracles), a popular spot in a beautiful old blue colonial house. The food was ok but the live music was a bit sad. The young fella could definitely play the guitar but couldn't sing to save himself.

We had very little sleep that night with the thin walls and lots of people coming and going at all hours. At 4am we got up and walked to the station. On the way past the Quality Inn where we had wanted to stay we saw Gerard's group gathering for breakfast. We guessed we would see them on the train.

The saddest thing about our visit to Chihuahua is that we didn't see any of those stupid little dogs.

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