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Published: February 23rd 2011
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Woke up in the morning next to Germans, the river and palm trees.
It was about 7:30 am when we finally woke. We were a bit tired, so we slept in a small bit. We woke up with the sounds of Germans, frogs (Not the French) and the water next to our tent. It was a bit odd to see so many Germans on this trip. Many seem to be part of large tour groups. At least the Germans aren't afraid of what the media call the Narco Wars of Mexico. Oddly enough I have not seen a gun fight yet, bummer! Our view from our tent was a beatiful river lined with Date Palm trees. We packed our tent and headed about 1 km into the town.
We stopped into the Kuyima Tour Agency to see about booking a tour to the see the Blue Whales in nearby Laguna San Ignacio. The lady informed to us that we just missed the van by 15 minutes, but we were welcome to drive to the camp ourselves. She asked us where we were from and immediatly we said TIJUANA! I think it helped with getting a better price. I used
their restroom to shave and brush my teeth and then we stopped in the local square (Zocalo) to grab a bit of food to go. A street vendor had some excellent coffee, Quesadillas and tacos de frijole y queso. The food was a great start for the day.
We started our drive to Laguna San Ignacio. The road was very nice...Well at least for the first 26 Kilometers. Once the pavemnet ended we were on rock and sand the rest of the way. It would have been great if we had 4 wheel drive off road vehicle, but no--we had a Chevorlet sedan. Still, our Chevy sedan made it through the rock and sand with a bit of careful driving or luck. It only took us about 1.5 hours to get through 30 km, but we made without any flat tires and the bumper still attached. We finally arrived to Camp Kuiyama and our host Paloma was waiting for us. She gave an explanation of the nature reserve and of our tour and we were were off onto our boat. We had small boat with a small engine in the back, but it zipped us into the bay to
the mouth of Laguna San Ignacio. When we arrived there were other groups out there and we could see other camp sites on the shore. We immiediatly began to see the whales blowing their blow holes from the surface of the water.
Our boat began to follow the whales and we got very close to them. We seen some bring their fins out into the air and a few popped their entire heads out of the water. Then we began to follow a Mother and her calf. The Mother got underneath our boat and jolted the boat a bit and then she popped out to the side. Cris was able touch her fin. Then the Mother and Calf circled the boat and the calf popped out of the water with mouth open making a noise. I could see the calf's eyes and I am guessing the calf had seen me too. Then the Mother came back up and stayed at the side of our boat allowing us to pet her. Before she went away she let out an enourmous spew of water. I never been sneezed on by a whale, so there is always a first time for everything.
We went back to shore and we seen how much the tide had pulled back. We had to walk 500 meters back to the original shore line. It was 12pm.
We drove back through the great unpaved road and made our way to San Ignacio. We then got back on Highway 1 to Santa Rosalia. Santa Rosalia was an amazing little town. Our guide book had said this was once a place of French nationals who decided to leave France and no kidding. They brought France to Mexico litteraly with a Church. The town was picturesque and we had some bread from its famous bakery with an unforgiving bathroom. We also had some street corn (Esquite), tamales de pollo, a hot dog with chorizo and we shared a cone of nieve de nuez. We then loaded back into our car and drove to Mulege. We only stopped in Mulege for directions as we were going to camp just outside Mulege in Bahia Conception. We finally found a great spot for 80 pesos called Playa Santipac. There was a little bar called Anna's and we had a shot of El Jimador tequila and two Pacifico beers. In the bar, we
had the shots and beers once we could get our aging and drunk Gringo bartender to sell them to us. He was funny and drunk! The bar was full of Expats or as in Mexico--Gringo's! They were all having a great time. The music was blaring, dogs were in and out and the drunkeness of its patron's were happy in their stupor.
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