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Published: June 13th 2010
Serenity on a Sunday
This image captured the serenity of the West Dover harbor with a small boat anchored in the bay. Notice the glass like surface...May 29-31, 2010 Peggy’s Cove Light House and Digby, NS
After leaving the Cabot Trail I headed down to Halifax via Coastal Highway 316. The route took me through quaint Atlantic Ocean seaside fishing villages that probably don’t get many tourists.
The skills of fishing have been handed down from generation to generation. It’s kind of like our family farms in the Midwest…trying to carve out a living but seeing large corporate farms buying up all the small family farms. Along the fishing villages, the fishermen were complaining about the price of their catch while large fishing “ships” are taking away their livelihood. Many will sell their boats when they retire as no family member wants to carry on the tradition.
One cannot travel fast in Nova Scotia especially when traveling along the coast. The roads have lots of sharp turns, small villages, and lots of beautiful vistas and scenery. On a motorcycle you have to stay alert to driving while taking in all the sights, sounds and smells. That’s what it is all about!
Guess what, when I finally made it to Halifax it was raining again! It’s been my steady companion since leaving North Dakota and
The "Daniel P" Fishing Boat
Owned by David Lanteigna and Clyde Morash. They had just put in to port and were unloading their meager lobster catch on the last day of the lobster season. my rain gear have been tried and tested. Only had my hands get wet as I went through several pairs of gloves.
The rain did not allow me to explore Halifax but always in a quest to know more about me destinations here’s a little history so that when you visit this great city you will have an idea of its importance in the region.
Halifax was founded in 1749 by Governor Edward Cornwallis and 2500 settlers to act as a naval and army base to protect them from the French, creating Canada's first permanent British town on the world's second largest natural harbor.
Before Cornwallis arrived at this southern, peninsular area, the area had acted as a French fishing station. The French-speaking people living here, known as Acadians, had a mix of Scottish, Irish and Portuguese culture. Many Acadian influences can still be seen in the area.
During the mid-18th century New Englanders moved north to Nova Scotia, attracted by Halifax's shipping and fishing industries. The 1750s and 1760s brought German, Scottish and Irish immigrants into the city.
By 1851 Halifax's population had grown to 20,749.
Here’s a little known fact. On April
Lobster Traps
David and Clyde were unloading and then stacking the lobster traps on the wharf. 14, 1912, three Halifax ships were sent in response to a distress call; the ‘unsinkable’ Titanic had hit an iceberg. Over 1500 people were killed in the tragedy and many were buried in Halifax.
Today Halifax (population 360,000) has one of the busiest ports in Canada. Fish, lumber and agriculture are some of the most widely exported goods from the harbor.
PEGGY’S COVE, NS Two versions of the popular legend claim that the name came from the sole survivor of a shipwreck near the cove. Some say she was a young woman while others claim she was a little girl too young to remember her name and the family who adopted her called her Peggy. In both versions, the young shipwreck survivor married a resident of the cove and became known as "Peggy of the Cove" attracting visitors from around the bay who eventually named the village, Peggy's Cove, after her nickname.
It was officially founded in 1811 by families of German descent. Many artists and photographers flock to Peggy’s Cove. Today the population is small but the Cove remains an active fishing village and a favorite tourist destination. Even in the pouring rain tour buses arrived
West Dover, NS
This photo was taken from the wharf looking toward the sea. It was a Sunday morning, with light rain that seemed to capture the simple life along the ocean. one after the other bringing tourists from Europe.
Today was Sunday and on my way to Peggy’s Cove, I came across a lone fishing boat slowly making its way along into a small harbor. On board were the two owners, David and Clyde along with their meager last catch of the lobster season. As I watched their “Daniel P” boat of West Dover, NS pull into this small dock in rain, I had to get some close up photos and interviews.
Turns out David and Clyde are seasoned fisherman with Clyde having fished for the past 40 years. We’ve all seen the Discovery Channel series “Deadliest Catch”. I heard stories from these two men that detailed the lobster business, owning a boat, price of fish and how the middle man is making the money, loosing friends to major Atlantic storms to a love for what they do. By the time I finished I was soaking wet but very happy that I had a few minutes to visit with these men.
DIGBY, NS After leaving Peggy’s Cove I made my way to Digby via Yarmouth. Once again the scenery and ride were awesome and spectacular.
In Nova
David unloading traps from boat
David unloads lobster traps from the "Daniel P" while Clyde uses a hook to pull from the boat and stack on the wharf. Scotia you will see the Acadian flag. A group of about 100 families from France took a chance and settled in Nova Scotia and called it “Acadia” which was part of the New France.
In 1755 everything changed when the British Governor Charles Lawrence, in collaboration with the Governor of Boston William Shirley, decided to deport the Acadians from their lands, and burn their homes and kill their livestock to be sure that they would not return. Over the next 7 years 10,000 Acadians were put on ships and sent throughout the English Colonies and Europe. Some escaped the deportation, only to be hunted down and either killed or put in prison in Halifax. Today Acadians can be found resettled in Louisiana, where they became known as Cajuns.
While in Digby awaiting my ferry ride across Fundy Bay, I stayed at the Backpackers Inn. This “hostel” is a little jewel. Great beds, wooden floors, tastefully furnished, etc and it was very clean. Saskia and her husband Claude were very friendly, helpful and knowledgeable of the area…they made me feel right at home. I also met Julian Fesser who was staying at the Inn. He is from the Black Forest
Stacking Lobster Traps
David and Clyde stacked their lobster traps as the season came to an end. area in Germany and was in Canada for a year traveling all around the country.
I would encourage you to try “hostelling”. It is a fun way to travel and meet lots of great friends from all over the world.
Here’s the website: http://www.digbyhostel.com/
The next day (Monday, May 31) I left Nova Scotia bound for St. John, NB via the Princess of Acadia ferry. The four hour voyage was very soothing and calm as we crossed the Bay of Fundy, which has the highest tides in the world. Water level changes up to 60 feet between high and low tides.
After securing my bike in the hold of the ship, I then went on a personal tour of this vessel. It even had a Starbucks! I was in heaven! It had cafes, lounges, gambling casino, arcade and a movie lounge, not to mention the fantail view.
It was built in 1971 and holds 650 passengers and up to 155 vehicles. I am always nervous about securing my bike in a ship but it went okay.
The 3-hour cruise saved me 10 hours and over 400 miles; however, it provided me with lots of
Lobster for Supper
Lobster is the name of the game and this one was huge. The price per pound was around $2.00 but it is the middle-man that makes the money. opportunity for photos and video.
After arriving in St. John I made my way to Merrimack, NH where I had some work done on my BMW by the very capable staff of 2nd Wind BMW. They are very customer friendly and definitely know BMWs.
I then spent two nights at South Royalton, VT visiting Carol Keller and Annie. My brother Brad was at a church conference in Atlanta, so I was not able to see him. Vermont is beautiful and very, very clean.
I was going to return home via Niagara Falls but decided to leave that for another ride. I made my way back to Montreal, through the capital of Canada (Ottawa), stayed the night at Sudbury, Ontario, through Sault Ste. Marie, Duluth and finally home to Bismarck.
I put on 6,000 miles in 16 days, met dozens of great people but more importantly fulfilled a dream I had of riding the Maritimes.
Some have asked where my next ride will be…well, I don’t know but the Alps in Germany sure do seem inviting. Maybe next year when JoLynn and I are planning a trip to Europe. I may have to rent a BMW
on that trip.
Take care everyone and thanks for coming along on my adventure.
Until next time…
Rob Keller
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peggy
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Peggy's Cove
Awesome pictures, Rob. Enjoyed the history of the Peggy's Cove. Thanks. Glad your are home safe and sound. Just in time for a short 1500 mile jaunt!