September 13th-16th

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The fortress of Louisbourg is as phenomenal as everyone claims. The fort wasn't really there at all untill they rebuilt it completely, and the did it completely like the one of the original times. They used the same materials and building styles. I found Jacob in the blacksmith's shop. The blacksmith is dressed in period clothing, has been working a forge for many years, and loves his work. He was deep into conversation about the quality of coal. He mines his coal himself from the area. Jacob was absorbing all like a sponge. We took a tour, which gave us a much better idea of the time and people. We could have stayed for days. They no longer let the pigs run free in the streets but they were there penned along with the geese, and sheep. Many who work there, maybe all, have developed skill in a craft. One woman showed us her lace making, bobbin style not crochet; I was flabbergasted. We decided to splurge and had a meal there. You get a very large napkin to tie around your neck and only one spoon regardless of how many courses. We were in the local pub, no fancy stuff there. It was hard to leave, and I truly wished we could have come back the next day, but timing did not permit.



That night was the first that didn't work out how I would have wished. I wanted to get a jump on driving to Lunenburg so we drove a couple of hours to a provincial park, found in the campers guide. We got close to our destination after dark, unfortunately, and took three passes before we could find the sign and entrance to the park and then we saw the signs in the park. It was a picnick park only, no tenting. It was too dark to try anything else, so we rearranged our gear and dropped our seats down to sleep in the car. So much for Woodwards guide book.



Lunenburg has been amazing. The town is so beautiful it is hard to believe that it is real. The coast line is even more arresting. Long fingerlings of water and tiny islands everywhere with colourful Dorris's and fishing boats in every cove. The waves crash on long sand beaches or whisper on small protected beaches of sand, pebbles or boulders. Each one is different. Janet and George took us on a tour of the beaches and Jacob got frozen jumping chest on into the breaking rollers. We took the ferry across LeHavre river to the famous bakery for sweets and earlier we went to the the blue rocks and past to a friends house to see the best place to go kayaking. Janet has cooked us beautiful dinners and exquisite breakfasts with fresh scones, scrumptious jams, home made granola fresh fruit and organic yogurt and then French toast or pancakes. It's unbelievable. Our second day here we went to the kayak spot and put into low tides and calm waters. We spent two hours paddling into and out of narrow pathways of water that led to summer houses, fishing villages, sailboats at anchor and coloured dorries pulled up on shore. I couldn't choose which was more beautiful, the views of the town or the views of the bird covered rocks, small islands and open sea. I'm not sure if I ever want to leave here. In fact we are now going to camp in the neighbourhood and stay a few more days. We need to spend a day at each beach I think. Last night, we walked up to the Academy, a very old elementary school that is preserved and lit up at night, gorgeous. Today, we will wander town, reprovision and set up our new camp site.

A bientôt.

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