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Published: September 22nd 2009
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Since arriving in Seattle 18 months ago, several people have raved to us about Victoria, British Columbia, telling us about the city’s charm and savoir vivre. So, faced with our impending departure from Seattle for good, we decided that now is our chance. Axel did virtually all the planning with a few guiding principles from Laurie: 1.) Good eats is key. 2.) Fun is important.
Friday, 10 July 2009
Leaving on Friday morning, we first took Mr. Henry to his hotel, and then headed North to the town of Anacortes where the ferry terminal is located. The two-hour ferry ride to Sidney, BC took us right through the picturesque San Juan Islands. Victoria is the largest city on Vancouver Island, the largest island on the Pacific coastline of North America. Victoria enjoyed a golden age in the late 18th and early 19th centuries driven by the logging and mining industries. It is also the Western terminus of the TCH (Trans-Canada Highway) and Canadian Pacific railroad. All these factors meant that a disproportionate concentration of wealth occurred in this small city which had a major influence on its physical development.
Axel outdid himself once again for our accommodations. We stayed
at Villa Marco Polo, a charming inn located in the Rockland district, a neighborhood of tree-lined streets and stately late 19th century homes. The Inn is run by proprietors with a taste for all things Middle Eastern. Oriental rugs, fine antique furniture, warm Mediterranean colors and a beautiful Italianate garden made for a cozy, welcoming house. We unloaded our bags and then set out almost immediately to explore the city. Victoria has a magnificent harbor with a very pleasant downtown built around it. All manner of vessel navigates its waters, including seaplanes, car ferries, yachts, sailboats and water taxis. Victoria’s pedestrian-friendly streets are filled with charming restaurants and unique shops and you are never more than a short walk from one of its many parks. After spending hours exploring the city on foot, we returned to Villa Marco Polo where a surprise awaited Laurie. No, the surprise was NOT champagne and chocolate-covered strawberries, Axel’s usual M.O.…although they WERE sitting on the table in the room when we arrived! The surprise was that Axel had arranged for a 1 hour deep-tissue massage for Laurie in the Villa’s spa.
Saturday
Feeling the need for a little excitement, on Saturday we went
to Adrena-line Zipline Adventures in the hills to the West of town. Having already experienced this activity on our honeymoon, we felt like ziplining veterans as we swooped confidently across steep ravines. We got back to the Inn just in time to change into appropriate attire and head over to the Empress Hotel for High Tea. The Empress is part of a chain of hotels built throughout the Canadian provinces by the once all-powerful Canadian Pacific Railroad to serve its trans-continental rail network. The Empress’ neo-gothic architecture is characteristic of these grand hotels. High Tea at the Empress is a bit of an event, and a definite tourist attraction. A tray-full of scones and cakes later, we decided that it was a worthwhile, but decidedly over-priced, experience. That night, we went to Café Brio for dinner. Café Brio has a wonderful ambience and serves up some delightful Pacific Northwest fare in an interesting format. Café Brio’s unique formula is that all the entrees can be served in half portions, which means that you can create a “tasting menu” of sorts for yourself and sample a little of everything. Our bellies full, we headed back to the Villa and enjoyed the
cool evening on the lounge chairs in the Italianate garden.
Sunday
With a reservation on the 3pm ferry, we had a good chunk of the day to enjoy Victoria. We started with a tour of Craigdarroch Castle, a lavish so-called “bonanza castle” built by one of the industrial barrons of the late 18th century, Robert Dunsmuir. Many of Victoria’s largest houses in the Rockford district are built on former lands of the vast Dunsmuir estate. Next, we visited the world-famous Butchart Gardens to the North of Victoria. The gardens are worth the trip to Victoria on their own. Started in the early 20th century by Mrs. Butchart, the wife of a cement magnate, the gardens were originally intended to mask a disused limestone quarry near the Butchart house. It is difficult to do the gardens justice in photographs. There are hundreds of plant varieties and the garden is in bloom virtually year-round. Although we were not able to experience it, the gardens are also designed to be viewed at night with special lighting throughout the maze of plant beds and an impressive fireworks and laser light display over a specially rigged pond. We had Afternoon Tea in the restaurant
Parliament
Home of the BC legislature. Victoria is the provincial capital. located in the Butchart residence. If you had to pick between this tea service and the one at the Empress Hotel, this one wins hands down. Not only is it more affordable, but the setting is delightful and…the goodies are better!
All-in-all, we loved Victoria! If you are looking for a romantic getaway in this part of the world, this is it! Next time, maybe we'll fly in on a seaplane...
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