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Published: June 25th 2007
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I know that I have only just sent a blog, but I have found a really good internet access point that is free, so I am taking the opportunity to update you on the latest goings on. Sorry if this is too much for you all to take in, but it helps rest my weary legs whilst I put these together.
Prince George to Vanderhoof - 125km
9 hrs in the saddle
On the advice of a number of people in Prince George, I have purchased some bear mace. Apparently the chances of a bear encounter (both Grizzly and/or Black/Brown) now increases significantly as I make my way Northwest along the Yellowhead Highway 16, so it is better to be safe than sorry. Although I would point out that the can of spray is only effective from 3 to 7 metres away, so I am not too sure exactly what protection this provides me. Knowing my luck the wind will be going the wrong way and it'll blind me instead of the bear.
Incidentally, I had to
sign a contract for the bear mace stating that if it doesn't work that the company is not liable for any resulting injuries. This has further filled me with confidence.
Unfortunately, I was doing far too much faffing around and didn't actually leave Prince George until gone 10 am. This causes you problems as you are then having to really push the pace all day long (which is not enjoyable) and you tend to arrive at your destination late in the evening. This in turn means that your body is so hyped up from the continual exertion that you really can't relax in time to sleep properly. Pop stars must have the same problem when they perform a big concert, which is nice, as I have often thought about being a pop star, particularly with my vocal qualities and chiselled good looks (ha ha).
The terrain now is a series of heavily forested, undulating hills, which are technically quite difficult to navigate. The hills are often 1000m + long and don't really have a downside, until that is you reach the end of the valley ridge that you are traversing, in which case you end up free-wheeling down
Frank & Geoff
"Gee Frank, lork at that damn funny horse. Hyuk Hyuk"
"Oh for heaven's sake Geoff, it's just an idiot on a bike taking our picture. Don't smile at him."for 15 minutes or so. The problem cycling this section has been further exacerbated by a 5 to 10 mph head wind. Headwinds are a cyclists worst nightmare, because it makes everything so much harder. You can't even really enjoy going down the hills with a headwind as your bike doesn't move freely and you can grind to a halt.
However, there has been a few beautiful moments on this section, which I would like to share. Firstly, there is a significant amount of pure white blossom on some of the trees and when the wind blows the air is literally filled with the stuff. At times it has been that thick it seems like its snowing just for me; really magical.
Secondly I have seen a few black bears (over a mile away). I have also seen a Bald Eagle (no jokes, although I am sure my friend Tim will oblige). I watched this amazing creature for 10 minutes as it glided majestically above my head. I have also seen a moose, otters, beavers and lot's of deer. However, the most amazing thing I have seen are the humming birds.
These humming birds are tiny. They
Look where the road is heading
Snow capped mountains. Things are going to get tough(er). are no more than 2 to 3 inches long and they are absolutely fantastic to watch. Firstly you hear what sounds like a large bumble bee and then you see it. They dance around graciously, moving in all directions including backwards and often there are a few of them playing together. They are so small that they have an almost mystical appearance like something out of Alice in Wonderland.
When I left Prince George the sun was shining. However, as so often has been the case thus far, I have literally had four seasons in one day. I could see some black clouds beginning to loom ominously on the horizon and then the wind really increased. Then came the cold. Soon after that it was sleet and hailstones. Then the heavens opened up and the rain came down so hard that I could barely see in front of me. “Blimey” I thought, “This reminds me of cycling back home”.
Soon my hands were too cold to even hold my water bottle. When I start getting cold, the best thing for me is to think of something that makes me smile and keep the momentum moving forward. Even if
you are only moving at 3 km/h like I was, it doesn't matter, because you are closer to your goal than you were before. It also keeps you warm(er). There have been a few times where I have shouted to the wind & rain “I got you beat, I got you beat”, which sounds really weird to most people (particularly to anyone you might be passing at the time), but I genuinely believe that these difficult emotions & experiences can be overcome. Its all psychological this lonely cycling lark, just ask my invisible friend Derren Brown.
Anyway, as I eventually floated on a raft into Vanderhoof, with bolts of lightening coming down around me, I made my way to the Vanderhoof B&B, where the lovely and very kind Anne was waiting for me. She said that she had been worried about me coming through the storm and immediately set to helping me settle in, feel at home and dry everything out.
Anne is typical of the people I have been fortunate to meet in British Columbia. She is very kind and considerate and does an amazing amount of charitable work in and around her community. She also has
more drive and verve than I could ever have and it is wonderful that I can meet such people and hopefully take a little of that spirit with me. She invited me to an evening with some of her friends and that was a great end to a rather indifferent day.
It's funny, with all the wonderful and beautiful things that my eyes are seeing each day, I really didn't expect that meeting the Canadian people was going to be the best experience of all. I feel that my spirit has grown wings.
It was a real shame that I couldn't spend more time with Anne and her husband Nelson, but although I had had a big cycling day yesterday, I needed to push onto Smithers, where I planned to have a few days rest. The next port of call however, was Burns Lake.
Vanderhoof to Burns Lake - 145km
9hrs in the saddle
I have cut my ear with my razor this morning. For some reason my ears have started springing long grey hairs and I am not too sure why this is? Perhaps I have too much time on my hands and I just
haven't noticed them before, but I find it ironic that I can't grow any hair on top of my head, but I seem to cultivating a rhododendron bush in each of my ears. Do I use scissors to trim these? I don't think I could pluck up the courage to ask a barber to trim them, it's a bit embarrassing. “Oh, can I have a number 3 and whilst your at it, can you hack back my ears”. When I die I am going to ask God what the purpose of this hair is.
Having learnt my lesson about leaving Prince George too late in the day, I rolled out of Vanderhoof at 11am, which was even later than before (soon I will be cycling through the night). However, I got engrossed in talking to Anne again and this was far more important than getting away early....Camilla will never be Queen, the British people just won't stand for it.
The headwind continued today. When I eventually staggered into Burns Lake I could not believe that the B&B I was staying in was at the top of the steepest hill I had encountered all day. I could hardly push
my bike up it. However, it was worth it because Jack & Marg Nickel were there to greet me. Again, Jack & Marg are really good people and this is so much appreciated by someone like me, who needs a friendly face at the end of a gruelling day.
Burns Lake to Smithers - 150km
10hrs in the saddle
The bugs are beginning to get much thicker now. To date they have been bearable as long as you keep cycling, but now they are beginning to get in my eyes, nose and newly discovered ear-hair. I have purchased a bug repellent jacket, which you can fully fasten down (including a sealable hood). However, I will start using this when I am heading up the Cassiar Highway. The jacket, coupled together with my sealable trousers & gloves should keep all these critters out, even though it does make me look like an alien from another planet. I will have my picture taken when I am fully kitted out so you can have a good laugh.
I have been bitten on the ear lobe, fingers and something has even drilled down for oil on the top of my head.
One for the pub quiz
The largest Fly Rod in the world is located at Houston, British Columbia - that is until someone can be bothered to build a bigger one No matter how much you protect yourself the fact is you are going to get bitten. This is particularly the case with the 'No see-um's'. This is the actual name given to these 'things', for which I have not managed to see yet - hence the name. These 'things' are the Oceans 11 of the bug world. They can somehow get in and under anything.
To prove my point, I have a rather large bite on my bum. This 'thing' had got under 4 layers of clothing, made it's way down my padded Lycra shorts (a place even I dare to venture) and helped itself to a carafe of my blood. Anything that can navigate this maze of clothing, then get its nose/needle through the thick layer of blubber that is my big bum and then is prepared to drink from it, deserves to to be shaken by the hand, or indeed by the wing. Fare play to them I say, if only I could just see one.
The land is now beginning to change dramatically. There are clearly defined mountain ranges on the far horizon and I got such a thrill when I saw my first snow
There is always a clue in the name (3)
Just as 6 mile hill finished, around the corner was this 12km monster. As they say, no rest for the wicked. capped mountains for a while. This is what it is all about, this is why I am here. I took a deep breathe of clean, cool air and then promptly fell off my bike. You need to be careful as the hard shoulder is soft in places (if that makes sense). I didn't want to tell my bike 'Diana', but she has put on quite a lot of weight since leaving England (she is very sensitive about her size) and she isn't as mobile as she used to be. Anyway, no harm done, just picked a few opportunistic ants off my panniers that had boarded for a free ride - them ants, you gotta watch em all the time.
There have been some BIG hills today (I say that all the time). I had been warned about Six Mile Hill. People seem to take great pleasure in telling you of these legendary hills. Just as I had reached the summit of this hill, the even worse Hungry Hill started, just as I made my way out of Houston. In life you can always be assured that just when you think things can't get any worse, they invariably do. Hungry
Hill was by far the most testing climb yet, I had my bike in the lowest gear all the way. You would go up for 20 minutes and then just as you were anticipating a relaxing downhill over the next brow, it would go up again. The answer is to always expect another up-hill, that way you are not disappointed; this is difficult to do, when your legs are screaming “Oi mate, give us a rest”
Smithers
Smithers is just fabulous. It is a very quiet, clean town with lot's of character and sandwiched between the Hundson Bay Mountain Range and the Babine Mountain Range. There is still quite a lot of snow on the hills, following an adverse amount of snow fall during the winter months (hence all the rivers being in flood as this melts). According to Hans the owner of the Smithers Guesthouse, they had nearly 2.5 feet of snow in just one night. Temperatures can frequently get down to -30 degrees or lower in winter. The nearby town of Stewart currently holds the record for the most snowfall in one season of 27 feet.
I was reading the Interior News and apparently Smithers
used to be the crime capital of British Columbia a couple of years ago. I am not too sure how this could be possible, because it is a great little community. If anything, Smithers can appear a bit like the film The Truman Show at times. There are lots of 'new age traveller' types in their home-made clothing and hippy dreadlocks. Maybe the police class a poor guitar aided rendition of 'Tears in Heaven' as a crime? Perhaps the local jail is filled to the rafters with 'new agers' all singing, playing their guitars and banging their tamborines in defiant unison?
Anyway, this is the perfect place to give my aching limbs a good rest. I am having 2 days here, whilst I prepare for the next 400 miles........
Good luck to Nick, Marie-Lou & the beautiful little Vivien in their new home in Smithers. Thanks for a great meal and I know that it will all work out for you all. Col X
A quick note to Hans the owner (along with Tina) of the Smithers Guesthouse, which is the best Guesthouse I have ever stayed in. Just excellent in every way. Thanks for your help
and sage council on the Cassier. You are a star!
Good luck to Tom the coolest BMW bike I have met. I mean 'Easy Rider' cool. Hopefully we can hook up on Vancouver Island for a beer or two.
The next 400 miles
So far, I have only cycled 1,274km (791 miles), however, this is where it gets really serious. The next 400 miles of my trip is by far the most remote, difficult and potentially dangerous. I have spoken to many people who have recently travelled the Cassiar Highway (mostly the opposite direction to me) and all have mentioned that the mosquito's, black flies and horse flies (apparently these have teeth!) are of biblical plague proportions, so I will be buttoning down the hatches and preparing for a war. In addition, a couple of mean looking Harley Davidson biker doods (complete with the World War II German crash-helmets and leathers) mentioned that it is also bear central, sighting 30+ bears along the road.
I will obviously try to be as safe and practical as I can with this section. These bears are not interested in people, they either just want to eat vegetation or are
now heading for the Salmon, but it is still squeaky bum time. The plan is to blitz it and get through as quickly as humanly possible. I won't lie, I am really nervous about this part of the trip (I am also really focussed on what I am doing), so any words of encouragement will be more than welcome. I probably won't be leaving a blog until this section is over, so you will all have to hold your breathe and keep your fingers (and everything else) crossed for me.
These are the places where I will be staying en-route as follows:
Smithers to Kitwanga - 105 km (Camping)
Kitwanga to Meziadin Junction - 145 km (Camping)
Meziadin Junction to Stewart/Hyder (via the Glacier Highway) - 65km (2 days here)
Stewart to Meziadin Junction - 65 km (Camping)
Meziadin Junction to Bell II - 95 km (Camping)
Bell II to Iskut - 160 km
Iskut to Dease Lake Crossing Camp Site - 135 km
Dease Lake Crossing to Junction 37 & Alaska Highway - 130 km
If you would like to send me an email please do so to the following address. In addition please feel
free to forward my blog onto anyone you think might be interested (also, if you forward me their email address I will add it onto my subscription, so they are informed automatically when I update them in the future).
colin.d.snowdon@hotmail.com
You all take care now, Col X
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Dawn Parker
non-member comment
Let's hope they're not "bear-hind you"!!!!
Hey Colin! I'm officially hooked on your blog (oo er missus!) It's great to hear that you're clocking up the miles and are meeting such fantastic people along the way - I'm surprised that you actually manage to tear yourself away! Here's loads of good luck for the onward journey, you're doing great and we're all thinking good thoughts to help you through! Will look forward to reading the next instalment and hearing all about your adventures! Take care, love Dawn x