Embracing Winter 2015.

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Where does the typical Albertan go to escape the cold frigid winter weather in February? Most of those that I know typically go south, Arizona, Mexico, Belize...you know the warm sun to warm the cold bones and make winter feel not so long. UNLESS....one has decided to proclaim 2015 "EMBRACE WINTER"

So that is where this story begins, Rene and I have declared 2015 to be the winter we stay close to home and do winter things. We've ventured to the mountains a couple of times and really, there are not many things more beautiful than snow covered mountains, gazing at the snow falling gently to the ground, hiking frozen streams that lay beneath massive frozen water falls...hmmm I digress.....anyway they were wonderful weekends but it was time for a different kind of winter adventure, so off we went to explore even more northern communities. Our destination was to be Fort Chipewyan. Now why Fort Chip you may ask? Well Rene works in an area in the north called Kearl Lake. Kearl Lake is about 100 kms north of Fort McMurray. Being a northern worker he has met other fellas from in and around the north and heard some interesting stories from a colleague about the Fort Chip area. He decided we needed to go and check it our for ourselves. So being that he wanted to go more than I, he was totally in charge of planning this adventure.

Our adventure started on Sunday morning Feb 22, 2015. We headed north and our first stop was of course, Westlock to have breakfast with our kids Dallas and Cyndi and our grandbabe Kash. Breakfast was delicious as always and the company entertaining..

After we filled our bellies with food and our bodies with hugs and kisses...back on the road we went. Our first stop was just a quick stop in Amber Valley to read an "Alberta's History" sign. Amber Valley is a small settlement of Oklahoma Black people. These people came to Alberta in 1909 from Oklahoma because of the laws that were limiting the political and other rights of these black people. They came and learned to farm wheat, barley and raised cows, chickens and opposed to farming cotton and corn. Must have been quite the adjustment for them. Most of these folks have moved away now, but apparently there are still some farm sites and other memorials that remain as evidence of this important story.

As we continued our journey north we couldn't help but be awed by the many untouched fields of beautiful white undisturbed snow. So pure and white under the bright blue sky. We turned onto the dreaded and infamous highway 63. For miles we could see the progress they were making with twinning this often fatal highway. Lots of controversy as to why the project seems to taking so long. Not for me to know on this trip. We just knew we would travel with care and caution. Being that it was Sunday, the highway was very quiet and we often were all alone for long stretches of time.

We arrived safely in Fort McMurray in the late afternoon. Enough sunlight to explore the city a while and to check into our hotel room. Rene decided since we were staying in "Little Newfoundland",( which is what Fort McMurray is often referred to, due to the many folks that come from Newfoundland to work in the oil and gas industry) we should have dinner with some of these fun loving and interesting "newfies". So off we went to an establishment called McMurray Newfoundlanders Bar and Restaurant. Rene had recently heard of a "Jigg's Dinner" and that was what he dying to try. A Jigg's Dinner is a Newfoundland traditional Sunday Dinner. It consists of salt beef, turnip, cabbage, potato, carrot and pease pudding. We arrived at the restaurant just after 6 and proceeded to order 2 Jigg's Dinners. The waitress came back from the kitchen and told us that the last 2 just went out for 2 other folks to enjoy. As disappointed as we were we found Cod Tongues and cheeks on the menu and decided that would be an interesting second choice. Our cod cheeks and tongues came and they were very YUMMY. We ate to our hearts content and washed it down with equally delicious ice cold beer. We spent the evening with some very interesting characters. It was open mic night at the restaurant and so we heard and sang along with some very talented local folks. Neither of us could mimic the Newfie accent tho!!! There was also a big group of folks there celebrating a birthday, so.....for desert we got not just one piece but 2 each of chocolate and vanilla cake after we sang a hearty rendition of Happy Birthday . Everyone is a friend of these very kind and fun loving people. So many of these folks away from home and away from the ones they love.

The next morning, February 23, we met Tommy our pilot of a little 4 seater Cessna182 at the Fort McMurray airport. We spent the next 1.5 hours in the air flying over the exact place Rene is currently working, Kearl Lake. For the last couple years now Rene has talked about this work and his living arrangements and although I nod my head and smile at his descriptions, there is nothing like seeing it with my own eyes. Of course different for him as well seeing it from the air. I get it now and understand better what he talks about and the places he talks about. After our adventure in the air, we headed out north again to make our way to Fort Chipewyan. To get to Fort Chip, there is highway for about 80 kilometres and then 200 kilometres on the winter road. This 200 kms is a cool trip - literally - because the road is made entirely of ice; it is the only land route that connects remote northern communities in the winter months. As soon as its cold enough, trucks apply water over the muskeg until the surface is about 6 inches thick. From mid-December to mid March, the ice road winds through stately boreal forest, over frozen rivers and marshes and across the mighty Peace-Athabasca Delta. There is even a section of road that is called the "rollercoaster" The section is up and down hills and sharp turns. The whole road is done without the need or want of speed. What a fascinating road!!.. After about 4 hours we took a right and entered the town of Fort Chipewyan. Fort Chip as it is fondly known as, is Albert's oldest settlement dating back to 1788. It has a population of about 1200 people who consists mostly of First Nations and Metis peoples. We drove around this tiny town for a few minutes and found the Fort Chipewyan Museum. With about 200 years of history there is allot to showcase in a museum. Just before we found the museum Rene got a call from the lady of the B&B where we were going to spend the next 2 nights. Rene asked for directions to her home and she told him it was on the main drag, across from the red porta potty. Well we thought we had explored the whole "main drag" and didn't recall seeing a red porta potty, so before we went into the museum we checked again.....nope, no red porta potty on the main drag. We decided to check out the museum and while we were in the museum Rene asked one of the workers there and she told us that we had to take about 3 different turns to get to the B&B. Hmmmm....I guess if one lives in a tiny town, every street can be the "main drag". We had a little chuckle and sure enough after about 3 turns we found the red porta potty and the B&B across the street. We grabbed some of our stuff and proceeded inside. As we walked into the closed porch we could smell the distinct smell of some interesting substance. We knocked on the door and we were greeted and welcomed very grandly by a cloud of blue smoke and the very happy husband (smugging, I'm sure ☺) Rene remarked quietly "this story is gonna just get better and better". The hubby showed us our digs which turned out to be a whole basement suite apartment complete with bedroom, kitchen and bathroom. Very nicely and comfortably decorated. We had a good laugh as we finished making ourselves at home. After settling in and relaxing a bit out we went to find us some dinner. There is one restaurant called the Athabasca Café. We each ordered a club house and shared some fries and our bill came to 38.00. Oh the life and luxury of the north.

Tuesday, Feb 24, we woke to another beautiful sunny coldish day. By the time we headed outside the temp had soared to a balmy -20. Not bad we thought. Rene had another winter adventure planned for us at 1 o'clock. We did some more roaming around the town and went out to the small airport. About a dozen or so streets in all and quite a quaint little town. At 12:30 we headed over to Robert Grandejambe's home for a sled dog tour. He came bounding out of his home to greet us and take us into his home to get dressed for the sled ride. I had brought all my warm clothes and because I know about COLD, I thought I was pretty well equipped. Well, Robert thought otherwise and insisted that I wear his wife's winter boots and her snow pants. I had a chuckle and just went along with it, as the boots and pants were probably somewhat warmer than mine and I was not opposed to being and staying warm. Once I was dressed to his standards, off we went. He didn't really seem to care if Rene was going to be warm enough. Pays sometimes to be a girl!!!

Off we went to the dog pen. He had 8 beautiful dogs in the pen and a smaller pen filled with some CUTE malamute puppies. Robert and Rene got 6 of these gorgeous dogs ready, into their harnesses and hooked up to the sled. The harnesses that he uses are very colorful ones and he says the reason for that is; in the fur trading days, the men on the trap lines would come into town with their dogs and to sell and barter with their pelts. The more colorful and adorned the harnesses meant the better off the trapper was and this would then attract the pretty grils. Decked out harnesses was all the rage back then. Getting this all done took only about 10 minutes. Not Robert's first time that's for sure!!! Then he settled Rene and I into this huge sleigh, wrapped us up in warm cozy blankets and away we went. For the next 1.5 hours Robert shared with us some history and stories of living life in Fort Chip. Robert had some very fascinating stories and some funny jokes to share. We saw the sights and sounds of Fort Chip from the back of a dog sled team. It was more than wonderful!!! For the last 1/2 kilometre, Robert jumped off his driving area and took me out of the sleigh and told me I had to take the team back to their pen. Oh....easier said than done. I thought the dogs would just stop when they typically did, but oh NO, they decided they should keep going full tilt into the pen. Needless to say, there were some tangles and interesting words from Rene as he careened toward the wire pen........ oops sorry!!! Guess I need a little more practice running a dog sled. After our tour of the town and surrounding areas, Robert took us to help him and show us his gill nets. After going back into the house to warm up a bit we ventured out again, but this time with a snowmobile and a sled. We went out onto Lake Athabasca, which is the largest lake in Western Canada, where Robert had his gill nets. I drove the snowmobile while the guys pulled out the fish. Out came, Northern Pike, White fish and lingcod. About 10 fish in all. Another fascinating new experience for me. It's brilliant and really simple and efficient how the gill net system works. Robert says he checks his nets about every 3rd or 4th day and loves it if he has company to help him and keep him entertained......no....Robert was the entertainer and such a great host.

We got back to town again about 4:30, thanked Robert for such a great experience and off for more exploring. Our next stop was to get some gas in the vehicle so we stopped at the gas station/ coffee shop called Chief's Corner. After fueling up we went in for a coffee and a cinnamon bun. While having coffee we chatted with some locals and learned a little bit more about life in Fort Chip. Someone said there was going to be a potluck at the school and that we should go. We of course had nothing to contribute for the pot luck so someone suggested we bring a couple bags of chips. No problem there....chips it was going to be.

After chatting and visiting with the folks we stopped at the Northern Store. Here they sold everything from baby supplies to snowmobiles to groceries to clothing and bedding supplies. I did expect to see that groceries were going to be more costly, but I stopped in my tracks when I saw that fresh (I don't think so!!) tomatoes were 9.39/lb. Those had better be the best tasting tomatoes in the world!!! We bought our 2 bags of potato chips and back to our B&B to relax some before dinner at 6:00.

At 6:00 we headed out to the school, potato chips in tow. We shared a wonderful potluck meal with many of the locals and then after the meal there was drumming and singing. Then everyone was invited to form a circle with our chairs and for the next couple of hours people shared with each other what was on their hearts. I suggested a couple times that we should leave, but Rene thought it would be rude to leave in the middle of things so we stayed and listened to their stories. Many had interesting stories to share and some had stories of tragedy and trauma that had been perpetrated on them. It was most interesting to be a white couple sitting in the circle with these First Nations peoples and to hear the pain, and goodness in their lives. We ended up staying until the end and returned back to our humble little suite at about 9:30. We both fell fast asleep probably even before our heads hit the pillow. We were EXHAUSTED from the busy day's events and all the fresh air.

Wednesday, February 25, we were headed home today, so we made some breakfast and headed out about 9:30. The temperature when we left Fort Chip was -26. Another bright sunny, but frigid cold day. A good day to be leaving the north and heading south. We arrived back in Fort McMurray about noon, had some lunch and continued south to home. We decided we should take a different way home, so headed onto highway 881. Also known as "Death Highway"..... Why? not sure, maybe our brains were frozen??? Anyway we hit some pretty icy and snowy patches on the highway and then good again the further we went south. We travelled south for a whole 10 hours!

What an interesting, educational and adventure packed 4 days it was!!

We definitely EMBRACED WINTER on this adventure and wouldn't change a minute of it.......

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