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Published: October 14th 2006
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It has been 10 years since I visited Dubai and I didn't recognize the city. Ten years ago you still felt like you were in the arabian desert when in the city. Not the case now....this is a city on the move (when you are not stuck in traffic!) with more construction cranes than almost anywhere in the world (heard Moscow may have more) and stunning futuristic architecture. This is also a place you can buy anything -- and I mean anything.
I arrived mid afternoon on the 7th. And spent a quiet afternoon getting recalibrated. It was quite the shock to the system to go from places like Kisumu, Gilmit and Karachi to Dubai -- the newness, the cleanliness, the wealth -- was stark in its contrast. I stayed at the Marco Polo Hotel -- not too far from the Gold Souk (yes very dangerous) and learned that I could get a shuttle bus to the area just after sunset when the stores would re-open. This is a an alive bustling city along a canal. You really get a sense of its rich trading history -- stores, souks, markets and barges everywhere. I roamed the street on my own
in the dark for about an hour. I can't remember the last time I did this since arriving on this side of the world. It was heaven! And at last I found the Gold Souk. Of course the plan initially was to scout out the 100s of shops displaying arrays of 22k and 24k gold jewellery and yes jewels...before buying. It overwhelms the senses -- the heat and the brightness of the gold. I had forgotten! But fear not, I climatized quickly -- actually found an air conditioned mall full of shops and I began testing the market out to get a sense of pricing. And of course relative to Canadian prices and selection -- well this is a gold mine -- lol! And what a ball I had trying all types and styles of jewellery. The shopkeepers were wonderfully patient with me and I must admit read me very well. For I weakened over time and bought several pieces. But rest assured I bargained hard!
Sunday was spent visiting the Mall of the Emirites -- currently the largest mall in Dubai -- but not for long! Another is in progress. And again -- you can buy anything here
-- except a coffee that day. All drinking and eating establishments were closed (aka Ramazan).
And there is a freak of nature here at this mall -- believe it or not --they have a ski hill! The contrast of the 40 degree weather outside and the snow -- well simply was surreal! The taxi driver told me that many of the ex pats use the facility to keep there ski legs in shape. Wild!
I got back to the hotel just in time to do a quick change and jump in the jeep for a Sand Dune Safari! I was joined by 3 New Zealanders in their early 60's -- very fun people. But I must admit did not share my love for fast four wheeling in the dunes. This was fun and I would love to go again with a gritty driver. A couple of times it reminded me of white water rafting. The desert is beautiful particularly as the sun begins to set with the shadows and the wind swept markings on the sand. The tour finished at a tented camp where there was camel riding and a feast. But no belly dancing because of Ramazan.
However, I did have my first beer in 2 weeks and man did it taste good! A Heiniken! I got separated from my New Zealander friends while sipping turkish coffee and eating dates -- very civilized. So in vintage chica style I walked up to the first table that had only men sitting at it -- two in this case. And boy did I hit the jackpot. My dinner companians were Adam (Strum), Owner, Publisher and Editor in Chief of the Wine Enthusiast and Roy (didn't get his last name) who was touring Adam about and was the manager of the tour company who was putting the evening on. Yes I hit the jackpot and enjoyed the most amazing company and service. We chatted about our respective adventures, wine of course and the state of Islam -- all while drinking wine, eating savory roasted meats and smoking from the arabian pipe -- who's name escapes me. You get quite the buzz off that fruit infused tobacco. So yes the conversation got more animated as the evening progressed all under the glow of an amazing full moon and desert sky full of stars. Spectacular really! Adam has said he will write
about me in his next issue on Dubai -- I think that was the tobacco talking. And here is a tip -- he raved about Indian wines -- appatently they are really getting good! So what a wonderful end to a spectacular 2 and a half weeks. I was out early the next morning -- back to Kisumu - my home away from home!
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