Dubai - architecture and history of the future?

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Dubai is a total contrast to everything else we have seen. Up to now we have looked at history and marvelled at how the Moors/Arabs and the Christians could build such wonderful monuments to both their religions and their leaders. Most of those lovely places are pretty old. Some of us were very surprised some years ago when we found that a stately castle we were inspecting in darkest Romania was built in the 1930s and had central heating and lifts! We have also commented that there seem to be a lot of new and gorgeous mosques going in as well throughout the Arab world.

I guess in my mind the thought has been that while current western leaders and governments build impressive infrastructure, like roads, ports and airport, along with the occasional town hall, parliament or monument, that the days of ostentatious, totally in your face, fabulous luxurious buildings, like the Alhambra, were gone.

No. Try Dubai. Whoo hoo – this is monument, building, palace, mall, playhouse, gardens, fountains and of course, modern infrastructure on steroids. I wonder what future generations will think? This might also be the case in other parts of the Islamic world that are not troubled by insurrection. Who knows? I need to travel more...

This, in turn, made me wonder what people thought about the Mezquita in Cordoba (Spain) when the Christians added a majestic basilica right in the middle of the most fabulous mosque. How weird is that?? Or what about the palaces demolished when nobles loyal to an outgoing king were expelled from the marvels of the Alhambra? Apparently they sold everything, down to the window lintels. Luckily for us, three great palaces survive and the Charles’ palace with its unusual internal bull ring was established.

I think I have mentioned before the growing sweep of history – how everything changes, but things go on? Again, in Cordoba the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos is probably the best example. This was chocker with Roman ruins and artefacts; but it is famous for its gorgeous Moorish gardens which go on and on and on and its use as the centre for the Inquisition and other Christian ‘initiatives’.

I know I have said something similar about the Cathedral in Seville. Lots in Spain is linked to Christopher Columbus and the events and wealth that he initiated. But – it is largely historical and often where we visit is actually the old quarter – i.e. for tourists only, not where the locals go.

So, here we are in a city that has only been here for three decades or so. It is very big, magnificent with towering buildings lining wide CBD boulevards (six lane highways – minimum speed 80k). But what is surprising is that very few buildings are the same and VERY few are without some sort of architectural device, oddity, curve, matching pairs, balls on top, height, facades - the list goes on. Some are amazingly beautiful, others are simply dreadful.

But the point is – they have the money and the interest in building a great city that says “power and prestige” and they haven’t stinted. When the world said it was not interested; they built a huge port and airport. When no airlines came to their new airport – they established Emirates which is now a key partner with Qantas.

Look at the gorgeous blooming and lovely gardens; miles of irrigation hosing, dry sand and glorious date and frangipani trees (why do you Aussies cut the leaves off for God’s sake??), vinca and some unidentified greenery.

In New Zealand we have been watching China and India, and to a lesser extent, Indonesia, develop and grow. We’ve heard about the problems in Europe and in much of the East with disaffected youth and extreme Islamics. Boy, this part of the world bears watching – this is money with a capital M. This is Action Town. They might have reeled at the beginning of the GFC, but it is fair humming now. Davie counted 20 taxis passing our hotel in one minute, 8.30 am, on the six lane highway. But, we had to wait for a taxi this afternoon at the Dubai Mall.

So back to the world of the ordinary; what have we done since we got here? (Apart from goggle at the sights).

Our arrival was somewhat chaotic as the French air traffic controller strike had grounded our flight and we had a battle to get out of Spain and to London on time to catch the flight to Dubai. Talk about swift travel through Heathrow? Thank goodness we knew what to do and how to bully our way fast through the security. No loose lipsticks in my bag, and no knives on Davie….

Anyhow, we managed to catch the flight – ten people in our part of the cabin missed it! We were allocated middle seats, but were free to pick window seats (any seats)– one each. Heaps of room for relaxing, dining and watching movies – yum.

Paranoia about lack of alcohol in Dubai was placated by an airline steward who told us about the super cheap grog at duty free at the baggage collection area. “Grab a box of beer – so cheap and they don’t care how much you take in.” He was right. Grog is dear and hard to find here, but when you have some in the room; no problemo.

So we arrived, and of course, at 9 am; no hotel room until later in the day. So we jumped on a ‘Highlights of Dubai’ tour and found our bearings. A visit to the museum was pretty cool. An old fort with canons and what I think are called dioramas – i.e. little scenes with models - showing how life was before oil. Pretty basic, and interestingly, quite biblical looking (for someone brought up on C of E picture books of little Jesus and the old testament).

We visited the required expensive store with fixed prices and ‘pure camel’ pashminas, ‘solid silver’ Aladdin lamps and so on, drove up the creek and beach, and viewed the luxury yachts and major buildings and the extraordinary Palm Development at Jumeirah, with the absolutely extraordinary Atlantis Hotel and development, seemingly offshore, but with secret road tunnel access.

We had a sleep in the afternoon; we were seriously sleepy after all that travel from Barcelona and very little rest on the way. But, as usual, we were both wide awake early in the evening and ready to rumble.

So, can you imagine this? Davie and I went to the mall. Yes; we did, and we looked in shops, and he did not grizzle one little bit. We had an ice cream (no wine available) and watched the Dubai Fountain (yes of course it is, the biggest in the world, and simply incredible – eat your heart out Mission Bay).

The mall was so interesting we went back. Yes; you are reading this. Norrey and Davie went back to a mall; for fun. Not because we had to. And, we went at 10 am, and, we did not get back until after 5pm. How come? Well, yes the shops were pretty good, but the attractions are simply amazing. It is full on with amazing things to enjoy and look at.

We liked the aquarium, which makes Kelly Tarlton’s look enormous. The impressive bit is that it is 11m high, and can be viewed from three stories. The main window into the aquarium is part of the mall, and it holds the Guinness Book of Records for the largest piece of acrylic in the world. It is huge – absolutely magic. And it is full of a huge variety of fish.

So we paid for the experience. We thought we’d been diddled really as the tunnel is only a few meters long, but then we went up a couple of flights of escalators, and saw a whole freshwater aquarium and heaps of critters like snakes, water rats, otters, hissing cockroaches, mealy worms (yuk), tiny alligators, piranha fish and all sorts of things one only expects to see on telly. We went ‘behind the scenes’ and fed the trevally from a platform, and viewed the food prep area and veterinary hospital.

There was only one golf shop in the mall, but we subjected it to thorough scrutiny. I bought a pair of Ecco shoes, which cost the same as in NZ, but I had not seen the style before. Nice. Davie got a cool pair of leather Clarkes’ sandals for $NZ100, which is pretty good. But beyond that, we just looked – all day!!

I think Davie’s comments sum it up. “In Dubai they do not manufacture, but they do, unbeknownst to themselves, they manufacture events, buildings, opportunities and sights for tourists and others to enjoy and benefit from.” Maybe they do know, and they are seriously strategic, and will become a major world player in the future?

This here town is here to stay, and mark my words, it is an important part of the world, and will become more important as time goes by.

In the meantime; tomorrow we are heading up to the old souqs to do some shopping and peering. We plan a river crossing on a little weeny boat, and a nice lunch somewhere pleasant. Tomorrow night we have a gourmet (God, I hope it is, it cost and arm and a leg) evening organised to try the local food in the old Arab quarter. I’ll take the Lomotil package on-board the plane early on Saturday morning.

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Photos

Alcazar de los Ryes Cristianos
Cordoba - what about this garden? But the building is more interesting really with Roman, Moor and Christian history that boggles the mind. The garden was glorious.

Statue leading into the Alcazar in Cordoba
This is typical - very hard to get a picture without extraneous people!!

Mezquita Mosque Cordoba
These pillars were repeated hundreds of times and natural light filled the area - which was huge. There is now a Catholic basilica in the middle of this in the expected extravagant over the top style.

View from the Alhambra
Don't kill me Jenny. The photos are fine, I am saving them specially for you. It is simply amazing and gorgeous.

Seville's incredible Plaza Espana
Another extraordinary example of fantastic architecture, with cost not being a problem

Gaudi's incredible Temple
Wow - this is not Disney, this is Genius.

Montserrat
From the top of the cable car - what a view. And, what was it all about?

Ancient and modern
This sums up my thoughts completely. A telephone tower and castle atop of Barcelona. How can this be symmetrical?