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Izmir
Down by the bay In my last
Associated Content article titled Discovering Izmir, Turkey: A European Vacation, I discussed my first visit to beautiful Izmir. This blog is a more personalized version of our trip with more pictures to share.
For our second trip to Turkey we chose Izmir because this is my wife’s home where she grew up. This is a picturesque seaside city that is located just 45 minutes away from the Greek islands, which you can visit by ferryboat. Izmir is about the size of San Diego and is home to roughly 3.5 million people.
We first arrived in Istanbul and my brother-in-law Ali drove us to Izmir. The drive down was absolutely gorgeous and I fell in love with every coastal town along the way. All of these small towns were charming, full of character, and perched right along the Aegean Sea.
We drove through Izmir and headed straight for the summer village of Dogenbay where we spent most of our time. This small community is strictly used for summer leisure, as these homes are typically vacant during the rest of the year.
From the porch of their three-story vacation cottage I sipped a Turkish tea and
Izmir
Ain't life grand? peacefully gazed at the Greek Islands peering through the mist in the distance. As I sat there completely relaxed I was totally hooked on the idea of having my own summer home in this charming little village.
The next day had an old-fashioned Turkish BBQ. As we feasted we drank some Turkish Raki (Pronounced Rock-kuh), which is a very popular drink in Turkey. It is the equivalent to Greek Ouzo and is made with anise so it tastes like licorice.
The Turks call this lion’s milk and if you polish off a fifth with your buddies you are milking the lion. After milking the lion we wound up dancing on the porch. Good times.
We drove back into the city a few days later and briefly stopped at one of the outdoor café’s located right on the beach. I enjoyed drinking an Efes Pilsen (the largest beer distributor in Turkey) and watching the view of the passing ships at sea.
I found the Turks to be very inquisitive and quick to engage me in polite conversation about America. They are also extremely knowledgeable about our political affairs. I visited a local barbershop to get a haircut
and a shave, and my stepson translated for me as the barber asked about the upcoming Presidential Election we were about to have in America. He asked me if I was going to vote for Obama, and even pulled a calendar down off the wall and pointed to November asking what day in November the election would be held. I found it amazing that although I couldn’t tell you who ran in their last presidential election, or even when their election was held, they certainly knew the details about ours. I was very impressed to say the least.
After my shave and political debate, I meandered down the street and found a nearby outdoor café where I stopped and ate lunch. I ate a dish called kokorec (ko-ko-rich), which is the Turkish version of chitlins that consists of baby lamb intestines that are spiced and cooked to tender perfection. Although it may sound unappetizing, it’s actually quite good. I love trying different exotic dishes and some of the one’s from the street vendors are amazing.
Our first official tourist attraction was the House of Mary near Izmir. The story goes that after the crucifixion of Jesus, the Apostle
Raki with Friends
Celebrating with friends in Doganbay John is believed to have escorted the Virgin Mary to Izmir in an effort to escape the persecution of Christians that was taking place in Jerusalem at the time. Their long journey ended atop Bulbul Dag (Nightingale mountain), where she is said to have spent her remaining days. The Vatican has since recognized this as a holy site, and thousands of European Catholics regularly make pilgrimages there. As we entered the house we were handed candles, which we lit in her memory and then placed in a candelabra before exiting. I found the entire location to be extremely serine, yet was mindful of just how remote it was. It occurred to me that this isolated setting would have served to protect her and keep her location secret.
On our way to the Izmir airport we stopped to eat at a small village café in the town of Imren. The local chef was all too happy to let me take some pictures of him showing off his skills as he flipped strips of dough into the air while making some Turkish pastries.
Overall, I found our visit to Izmir to be a much slower and more relaxed pace than
outdoor cafe
outdoor cafe our trip to Istanbul. The city is alive with constant activity if that is what you are looking for, but the surrounding countryside is pristine and peaceful with much to explore in itself. After your visit to Izmir, you may also find yourself wanting to buy a summer home there, or in any of the scenic nearby towns.
Thanks for listening,
Eric the Turkish Traveler
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