Babakale

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I'm not really sure about all the fuss over Troy. Helen and all that, plus the links to the creation of Rome. But anyway, it is virtually on the highway south out of Canakkale. It is interesting in some ways and I got a picture of the important bit, the palace walls of Troy VI and Hilary, So I guess that is Hilary of Troy.

After Troy we left the highway to take some rather more interesting roads out to Babakale. Some through tiny villages with chickens in the street, and on one occasion an untethered foal which was a bit shocked by the Harley, but nothing bad happened. Other parts were on some lovely winding roads through olive groves, hills, and at times the coast, all of which was very pretty. Then there was the final bit of road (I suppose it can just about be called a road), about 8 miles part on gravel, part on cobble stones, parts almost a dirt track. With due care and attention we made it without mishap, the bike handling the conditions really well.

So now we are in Babakale, the eastern most point in Asia. It is an amazing place with great views of Lesbos. But the main reason for being here is the calamari (squid), reputed to be the best in the world.

Hilary adds that Troy is an archaeologist's nightmare - Schliemann destroyed a great deal and many artifacts were stolen and taken to Bloomsbury or Berlin. There are 7 cities buried there - several of them of more than one building phase - it's hardly possible to reveal and reconstruct one without destroying something else of value. So, for someone like me, wandering round the site is somehow unsatisfying. You can see the sea in the distance and imagine the Greek ships pulled up onto the beach and the encampment and Achilles sulking in his tent, but its a huge effort. So many places round here have so much more atmosphere.

I was thinking today what a huge privilege it is to be able to travel this way. Only possible to a small proportion of people for a short space in history. The scenery along the way has been sensational (as long as you like hot dry hillsides above the blue, blue (winedark) Agean). My phone can't decide whether it is in Greece or Turkey. Calls on the Greek network are cheaper.

We have an entire suite here for 50 YTL (about 20 UK Pounds) - I don't think breakfast is included. I didn't work out how to get hot water till after I had had my shower (well, I did half way through but thought that it might electrocute me as I was wet). No major deal as I was very hot after the ride here. And, after much effort with the language, we now have the remote control for the AC. Though I don't think we will need it. When it's breezy here it's not too hot for me.

Babakale is as beautiful as I remembered it. I doubt if the photos will capture this.

Then there was dinner after a few bottles of Efes on the roof terrace. A wonderfully fresh tomato salad with onions, peppers, cucumber, olives and parsley, dripping in lemon juice and olive oil served with really good fresh bread. We both had the calamari. Perfectly fresh, perfectly prepared, perfectly cooked. Wonderfully sweet and tender. The last time I had calamari so perfect was a few years ago when I was last here in Babakale.

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