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Published: July 21st 2015
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Taksim Square doesn’t have quite the name recognition that the other T Squares – Tahrir and Tiananmen – have, but it still holds an important place in Istanbul’s history, and I wanted to see it.
I start by walking across the Galata Bridge. This runs across the Golden Horn from the Eminonu neighborhood to Karakoy. You can walk along the top side, which gives you a nice view of the city, or you can walk through the lower level, past the people fishing from the bridge, and the restaurants that will (presumably) serve their catch.
Once on the Karakoy side I switch to the funicular. Now, I don’t know about you, but when I think of a funicular, I think of railways like the one seen in the movie “The Grand Budapest Hotel,” and I have a great urge to start singing “Funiculi, Funicula.” So I was completely unprepared for the modern funicular I found. This was just like a regular subway car except that it was built on an angle, with steps to get from the lower end of the car to the upper end. It’s still a cool bit of engineering, though.
In its very earliest
Wall art
View from the Galata Bridge iteration Taksim, being on a high hill, served as a water distribution point. There was a reservoir here, as well as a public fountain. In modern times it has been the locus of political protests, some of which, most notable in 1969 and 1977 have turned ugly with a number of fatalities. There is still a significant police presence here, though it’s pretty low key.
Today Taksim Square is a calm, green space, breezy and pleasant, though trash strewn and poorly maintained. It is home to the Monument of the Republic honoring the formation of modern Turkey in 1923. It is also home to a number of the city’s homeless population.
South of the park, at the head of Istiklal Street, is a lovely remnant of the city’s original water distribution system. Taksim Maksem
(water line) is a beautiful a white marble octagonal building that was built in 1732 under the direction of Mahmud I. On the outside above the public fountain is a verse from Qur'an reading,
“We have created everything out of water.” Inside is a marble fountain surrounded by intricately painted medallions, and plaques with gold calligraphy. I think one of the coolest features
of this building are the bird houses built into the outside face of the building. These centuries old bird condos are still in use.
Today the building is used as an information center. It’s a nice place to step out of the sun, and the young men manning the information counter are happy to see you.
Possibly useful Information: Istanbul’s public transportation system is fast, convenient, and very inexpensive. You can buy an IstanbulKart, which is a re-loadable RFID pass that can be used for the Metro, tram, bus, ferry, funicular, and train. There is a 6 Turkish Lira non-refundable charge for the card, and they can be purchased from a machine at the station, or from any number of cigarette stands.
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Paul Drielsma
non-member comment
I loved Taksim.... the buskers. the side lanes with the bars and live music and markets, the energy and dress of the young people in particular, and the traditional eating places amongst the glitz of the new. Hope you get to East Turkey too.....