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Published: August 9th 2007
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ANZAC Cove
92nd anniversary of ANZAC DAY - 25th April, 2007 Lest We Forget ANZAC Day at Gallipoli was everything we'd hoped it would be - a once in a lifetime pilgrimage which really felt like a sacred journey. It was moving and awe-inspiring to spend the night in that infamous cove, with the impassable yellow cliffs towering behind the crowd and the dark Aegean sea stretching into the infinity in front. With everything we needed to be comfortable and not an enemy in sight, it was impossible not to be filled with the most reverent respect for all of the men - Aussie, Kiwi, Turkish or otherwise - who dared even to set foot there when is was so awfully hostile, and so very different to the calm, green, sunny beach that greeted us.
We were among thousands of people who streamed into ANZAC Cove to watch the sun set, and to wait out the night watching documentaries and learning more about why we were all there. Every hour our so, they played the Adagio for Strings and Orchestra from the movie Gallipoli, and the huge, muted slumber party snuggled down for half an hour to listen to the haunting music until the next film. The Navy
Remembrance under the Lone Pine
Band played twice, Warren Brown encouraged everyone to squish closer together, and Geraldine Doogue hosted and interviewed a few folk.
The service started a little before the first light crept over the "Sphinx's" head. Brendan Nelson's speech was nice, but the part that will always stick with us was his telling of a story in which a wounded soldier, left alone on the battlefield, called out to his comrades "Have you forgotten me, cobber?" At this, his voice cracked, our hearts broke, and "We will remember them" suddenly meant more than ever. The Last Post was very emotional, as was our National Anthem.
After the Dawn Service, we spent a little time at Ari Burnu Cemetery, at the little point on the end of the cove, and then went on to the Australian service at Lone Pine. Full grandstands lined each side of the cemetery, but we sat on the grass amongst the headstones and the flowers. We walked a little over 3km to Chunnuk Bair cemetery for the New Zealand service and loved that so much of the speeches and songs were in Maori. The walk there was uphill, the
Aussie mates
Us with Kim and Jez sun was hot and the
Aussie mates
Us with Kim and Jezusually desolate road was crowded. It was at this point, climbing through the heat, that we most felt we were completing a pilgrimage.
We returned to the Gallipoli peninsula the following day, and with only our group there, the sun shining brightly and the wind gusting, it was a vastly different feeling. We stared out at the aqua blue sea, inhaling the sweet, salty breeze, all the while acutely aware that those ANZACs would only have breathed the foul stench of acrid smoke and burning or rotting flesh, would only have seen the sea red with blood, and would not have had the time to pause, stare out to sea and dream of home.
We learned a lot about the Turkish losses and spirit during our visits too. We stopped at the memorial to their 57th Regiment, all of whom died fighting on the peninsula. Busloads of Turks were there to pay their respects at the beautiful monument surrounded by the graves of such young martyrs. Their general, Ataturk (who became President of Turkey in 1923), commanded them "not to fight - to die!", but later
"The Sphinx"
Towering cliffs over ANZAC Cove, so named by ANZAC soldiers who trained under the Sphinx in Egypt made an especially kind tribute to the ANZAC soldiers who never
"The Sphinx"
Towering cliffs over ANZAC Cove, so named by ANZAC soldiers who trained under the Sphinx in Egyptmade it home:
"Those heroes that shed their blood
and lost their lives;
You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country.
Therefore rest in peace.
There is no difference between the Johnnies
and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side
here in this country of ours.
You, the mothers,
who sent their sons from far away countries,
wipe away your tears;
your sons are now lying in our bosom
and are in peace.
After having lost their lives on this land they have
become our sons as well."
This was a very emotional visit for us both and more than one tear was shed. There was still the awe and respect of the previous day, but this was mingled with an omnipresent feeling of sadness at the collossal waste that occurred there 92 years before.
We will remember them.
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Barbara
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Lest We Forget
Thank you Mel & Gareth ... lest we forget.