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I never knew Turkey was so scenic - I always think of it as beaches, sailing and ancient remains but in the last few days we have ridden across some great road through some fantastic scenery and we have mostly had the roads to ourselves, apart from the flocks of sheep and goats wandering aimlessly along. The landscape is amazingly diverse; alpine meadows, snowy passes, rolling grasslands, olive groves. And there are all sorts of diverse cultural bits and bobs on the ways - the perfect combination really.
From Istanbul we crossed the Bosphorus leaving Europe behind and entering Asia via the suspension bridge built by Edwin (well ok, it was designed by the company where he served his apprenticeship). It doesn't really feel like Asia though as all the faces are still European and the driving standards are pretty good. We took a ferry across an inlet on the Sea of Mamara and saw dolphins - and all the Turkish people were amazed as this stretch is quite industrial and not so clean.
Now we can turn the bike east and start riding properly all the way across Turkey - it feels right to be heading east, although
it means we are riding into the sun every morning making picture taking challenging. The countryside round Lake Isnik is incredibly neat with olive tress and apples tress all lined up in neat rows. From up above its all very geometrically precise and aesthetically pleasing. Gradually the groves and orchards are replaced by wooded hillsides. Being spring there are carpets of wild flowers everywhere, its incredibly beautiful and Edwin has to stop every 10 minutes so I can take more pictures of the flowers. Its the weekend so lots of families are out picnicking besides streams and in the shade of the tress, its nice to see them enjoying their countryside. There are a lot of traditional villages around with old wooden or stone houses. We stay in Beypazari a small Silk Road town with cobbled streets and old wooden Ottoman style houses. All the shops have wonderful displays outside of agricultural implements and general household goods with carpenters and coppersmiths beavering away, it feels really traditional and a million miles away from Istanbul. Our guest-house is 300 years old with wonky walls and rickety floors but oodles of character and bathrooms in the cupboards.
We get to brush
up on our history at Gordion. Its one of those mythical sounding places you are taught about at school but it exists and it was here that Alexander the Great cut the Gordian Knot. It was also the capital of the Phrygians Empire in the 9th century BC and their king was Midas as in the golden touch - yes he really existed. Given how big their empire was (even way back then it was on one of the main east-west trade routes) there's not much left now except for the gigantic burial mound. You walk right into the depths of it to see the 'wooden case' the king was buried in, only its not a wooden case its a full blown cedar wooden log cabin made from enormous trees trunks. Not what I had pictured at all and more like something you'd expect to see an Alaskan bear trapper living it.
Another days riding takes us across the central Anatolian grasslands. Vast areas of rolling hills full off fresh green wheat shoots and large flocks of sheep and goats. The flocks are guarded by Kangal dogs specially bread for the purpose who usually sport spiked collars to give
them an advantage when fighting off wolves attacking the flock. Luckily we don't look like wolves, most of the dogs just look quizzically at us as we go past trying to decide what we are. A few decided we are a threat to the flock and chase us down the road. At the end of the day we arrive in Cappadocia - the land of fairy towers, cave dwellings, underground cities and rock cut churches adorned with colourful frescos. We even get to stay in a cave - a very posh cave with an en-suite and private veranda but a cave none the less.
An early morning balloon flight lets us see Cappadocia from above. From up here you can see all the patterns in the landscape - its surprising how different crops create quite different patterns and textures. We drop right down into the valleys and skim past the fairy towers at eye-level, we are so close that you can reach out and touch them or pick leaves off the trees. Its all topped off with a champagne breakfast then we are ready to head into eastern Turkey.
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Chris & Danielle
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Best wishes from Chris & Danielle
Hi Ed & Lorraine. Nice to har you're enjoying the "adventure". Wish I was there! Got the bikes back last week. Danielle's is fine, mine still needs a screen fitted but just got the fittings today in the post - so should be mobile again mid week. Hurrah! Then a quick tour of Scotland to see how Danielle's wrist is holding up. Best wishes to you both, to Kev & Jules, to Aaron et al. Oh - and please keep things the right way up. Chris & Danielle