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Bergama is the pleasant, albeit roasting, modern city at the site of the ancient city of Pergamon. I passed through for the night on the way from Safranbolu to Didim which I would use as a base to explore the ruins at Priene, Miletos, and Didyma. I'm writing this blog out of order as I still have to process my trip along the Black Sea coast which was a mini epic condensed into a 5 day journey. Also many photos from the ancient sites of the Didim area which I visited Sunday in a long day from Altınkum Beach (nothing special as far as beaches go but convenient).

I arrived in Fethiye yesterday and today set up a 4 day/3 night Blue Cruise (sans WiFi) departing tomorrow and terminating at Demre. From there I will head to Antalya where I have a direct flight to Vienna next week followed by a train to Lienz and bus to Heiligenblut which is the staging area for Großglockner, Austria's highest peak, which I hope to summit September 6.

Accommodation and food After arriving from Safranbolu via Balıkesir and Soma, I found myself at Bergama's centrally located eski garaj (old garage). I had reserved a room at Pergamon Pension (40TL on booking.com) in an old Ottoman house, with a share bath, fan, WiFi, and an amazing breakfast but I had no idea how to find it. Nor did anyone at the garage but a Metro Turizm employee was kind enough to call the pension who sent someone to retrieve me and we walked together to the pension in 5 minutes. I was able to check in early, dump the bag, and head to the Asclepion after taking lunch at one of the two the pide salons on the way from the pension. For dinner, there was literally a hole in the wall cafe next to the City Hostel where güvec (brisket stew with potatoes), fasul (white beans), and salad went for a paltry 6TL. Huge plates of baklava too but this was the rare occasion when I did not overdo it with dessert. In town, enjoy a Turkish coffee at one of the many çay salonu (tea salon) for 1TL.

Hacı Hekim Hamamı (Bath of the Physician Pilgrimmage) 40TL for the works. I couldn't bring myself to spend that much after Amasya's 24.50TL scrub and massage even though it would have been great after spending the night on the bus.

Transport There was a direct bus from Safranbolu to Balıkesir with Metro Turizm for 50TL departing at 8:45 pm and arriving at 6:00 am. From there I had to catch a Balıkesir Seyahat bus to Soma departing at 7:00 am for 10TL and taking an absurd 2 hours to cover the 75 km. I was very fortunate to catch the Soma Koop bus to Bergama just as we were nearing the bus terminal. Another hour later (7TL) and I was finally at the Bergama garage. There are in fact direct buses to Bergama's long distance otogar (very far from the center but free shuttles to and fro) from İstanbul, Ankara, and İzmir. Ankara would have worked but it was well out of the way from Safranbolu and I did save 18TL by going via Balıkesir and Soma. I left Bergama on one of the almost-half-hourly shuttles to İzmir for 10TL that arrives at İzmir's otogar 2:15 minutes after departure from the garage. In İzmir I immediately caught a Pamukkale Turizm bus to Didim for 19TL that left at 3:30 pm and arrived at 5:45 pm and had the unique distinction of being the only bus I've seen in 2 trips to Turkey that had a toilette.

Asclepion Ancient healing center with a 15TL entry and not really worth the price of admission. It's a fairly small site and an hour should do it. Last year I spent several hours at Ephesus where the entry fee was 20TL. To get there from the meydan, head south from the hamam and keep going til you see the signs pointing up the hill.

Acropolis Certainly the highlight of Bergama. There is a 6 km road to the top or the 10TL cable car. I reached the Acropolis by neither. There is an archeologists' gate just north of the Greek quarter and from there a stout 20 minute walk to the theater passing the gymnasium and the Temple of Demeter. Note that there is no ticket booth along this route saving the 20TL entry fee which did not bother me in the least since the Asclepion entry fee was robbery (seeming even more so after the visits to Priene, Miletus, and Didyma which were all more interesting and a mere 5TL entry).

Red Basilica The closest site to the pension but I was too exhausted after the bus ride and baking for an hour at the Asclepion (in addition to getting there) so I just took a few pictures from the street then took a siesta before dinner.

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