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Published: September 20th 2004
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Crac Des Chavaliers
The Crusader Knights built this one. All very fairytale, it was never breached: they simply left when the game was up for Christians round here. Damascus, Syrian capital, is the oldest city on earth (7000 years,well done!) - well actually city that is continuously habited that is. But hang on, fellow Syrian city Aleppo claims to be the oldest city too! I am getting serious deja vu here: Nottingham has three "oldest pubs in England": one being the oldest pub, the other the oldest (yawn) tavern, etc, etc.
Now if the people in Egypt and Jordan can be termed friendly, the Syrians take the piss. Relative latecomers to George's evil axis, if you catch their stare you are in for it. Half an hour later you just about manage to make your excuses sound convincing and extract yourself from their "lair" (house/shop-front/gallery/police station) having consumed copious amounts of super sweet black tea. Where they really have you is on a bus journey. You want to go to town A, but they live in town B and they really want to take you home and make you a cup of tea and that can only lead onto a meal and a smoke of that pipe-thing with their mates before whom you are paraded as a new best friend. So far, I have managed to avoid this
Palmyra
Yet another very big Roman city. level of predatory friendship, but I remain vigilant.
Being high on the list of countries George Bush would like to "liberate" (read sow the seeds of civil war), the Syrians *really* hate Bush/Blair (they seem to dislike Blair more for his oily ways, but I met one George Galloway fan). They are all very keen to point out that they do not associate us with our government - after all, they too know what it is like to live under a government that does not represent the views of its people.
Last night I was really knackered, so I went to the cinema where I was approached by a new "pal". He helped me find out what the times were and explained that he was a student of English literature. As I left to get a bite to eat before the next showing, I discovered that there was an invisible piece of velcro attaching him to me as he guided me helpfully to the falafel stand I could see quite clearly myself thankyou. As he smoothly invited himself to show me around the city tomorrow, and by the way he hadn't seen Troy either so isn't that nice,
More Palmyra
These Romans really got around. I had a moment of clarity: I had been "pulled". No I don't mean that he wanted to bum me, (apologies to any puffs reading this), just that personal, er, 'dynamics' were the same. This guy's ulterior motive was to practice his English on me - the cad. Well I haven't been rebuffed by an unknown quanity of females without learning a few tricks, so I skillfully managed to untangle myself from this passive-aggressive character and he crashed and burned, maaan.
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Savage
Mark Savage
Nice
nice to read that the people differentiate between the people of another country, and their government. I'd be nervous of those that don't discriminate in such a way though. Great pics though, love reading your travels. Stay safe!